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Is that @Diseazd garage?

It'll yellow slightly on the hot parts, my thermostat housing, but not too bad. I bead blasted my valve cover and used it on that and it still looks good.

Blazing Saddles quotes.

On my first rebuild I polished all that stuff and didn't coat it with a sealer. Now my engine looks like crap, the injector hold down plates are rusted, everything aluminum has oxidized like Tomohawk says. If you polish it, coat it with something.

Straight wiring will bypass the oil switch. Have you hooked in a fuel pressure gauge yet? That will show a lot and is a WHOLE lot safer than straight wiring. I did the straight wire and drove my car with the wires looped through the passenger's window for a quick yank if things went bad. Also had a fire extinguisher out of my Dad's boat riding in the passenger's seat. You can get a gauge at Lowes in the swimming pool section. They have them there for the pool pumps, for cheap too. $9.95

Here's a quick read from Blue's Tech Tips http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ The fuel pump control for the 78 - 81 N/A.When the engine is not running the oil pressure switch is closed and the transistor at the 'L' terminal of the alternator is "closed" and BOTH idiot lights for ALT and OIL are ON. When the key is turned to ON the idiot lights are on and the fuel pump is OFF. The fuel pump only "starts" when the key is turned to Start. These years used three relays to control the fuel pump. If the engine stops / stalls the loss of BOTH ALT and OIL signals simultaneously shuts off the fuel pump.

Never heard that one but I'm still laughing. One day, three scientists decided to conduct an experiment that nobody had ever tried before. They decided to leave a cork up a Pigs arse for 3 weeks and at the end of the three weeks they would take the cork out and see what happened. Well, they noticed that after 1 week the pigs legs had turned blue, after 2 weeks its head turned blue and finally, after 3 weeks the entire pigs body had turned blue. So one scientist said to another "i think it is time to remove the cork" Well, those scientists set up a room so that the pig was at one end of the room, and the scientists were in a line behind it, like so: Pig Scientist Scientist Scientist And they got a monkey to take the cork out. well, as you can imagine, when the hapless monkey took the cork out of the pigs arse, $^!# went everywhere. The scientist at the back of the room was up to his knees in it, the scientist in the middle of the room was up to his chest, and they couldn't find the last scientist, so after searching around, they finally found him, and found him laughing hysterically. "What is wrong with you?" one scientist asked. "You have just been buried alive in pig $^!# and you are LAUGHING!?" The Third Scientist replied, between his laughter, "You should have seen the monkey trying to put the cork back in!" I found a more familiar to me version. I'm no scientist but have been to a County Fair. Two guys were trying to win the "Biggest Pig contest" at the county fair. So they stuck a cork in the pig's... ahem...under his tail, and left the cork there for 3 weeks. The pig got bigger and bigger and bigger. They won the contest, but were afraid to pull the cork out. So they trained a monkey to do the job, training him with a cork and bottle. The day finally came to relieve the pig. The monkey pulled the cork out and the pig exploded, pig manure exploding all over the room, knocking the men to the ground. The monkey was killed, and Both men ended up in the hospital. One man couldn't stop laughing in his hospital bed. The other man, "Why are you laughing? I don't remember a thing". His friend couldn't stop laughing and said, "You should have seen the monkey trying to put the cork BACK IN".

You may have a bad fusible link. Straight wire the pump to the battery and tape the wires up on the door and see if you can drive it,

"but you said rape twice? I like rape!" I like the first picture best or smooth like Rossiz, let em guess what blew the doors off their Porsche.

My first joke was the one where a couple went on vacation, left their cat for the neighbor to tend to. He calls them up and said the cat was dead, ruined their vacation. They said why didn't you tell us the cat's on the roof then call and say he fell, then that he'd died. Break it to us easier. A few days later the neighbor calls and says " your mother's on the roof".

The more you drive the more problems you'll find, it's like a relationship. One month and the honeymoon's over. To me it sounds like your BCDD is causing the high hanging RPM at stops. Or it could be the dashpot plunger needs greasing up a little. Have you turned the big phillips headed screw at the throttle body, the air/idle screw for idle adjustment? Hot restarts are a problem but it's not that hot yet so I'd be looking for something else causing it, maybe something electrical heating up or your fuel pressure dropping. Mine had those high speed wobbles too, new tires, rotors and wheel bearings plus an alignment straightened all that out for cheap except the tires and wheels. Grab your tie rods and see how much you can move them by hand, they should be tight. I just bought, it's on the truck for delivery today, a MC from rockauto.com. $47 delivered. It is a Cardone #1368 maybe? Here's some stuff to read on T/C rod bushings, they get worn and need replacing. Compression rod is what Blue calls it in his write up. Seems like the whole Hyper Flex kit cost me $239. I did mine when I had the motor out for rebuilding, much easier. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm

My Dad would tear down a 350 SBC and put all the nuts and bolts in 1 bucket. I said the same thing, "how in the world are you gonna remember where they go". He said "they'll only go one way".

10 or 12 feet of speaker wire with alligator clips makes a good fuel pump straight wire. Get some clips off an old battery charger for the other end. I use mine when my gal friends want to get spanky/sparky.

I've been using Quaker State Defy on my last rebuild. Did a valve adjustment the other day and I would swear it looks better than when I put it together. Very pleased with that oil and it's contents, high zinc level.

I glass bead blasted it then went back over it with semi-gloss suspension black, Eastwood product, then over that with a high heat clear satin Eastwood product as well. I had bought those products for my steering rack and other bits and pieces as well. Motor mounts, oil pan and tension rods to name some off the top of my head. Oh yeah, transmission crossmember and other suspension parts. The Diamond Clear I coated all my blasted aluminium pieces and shot the valve cover too bring the semi-gloss sheen down to a matte finish. Turns out to be a heat resistant matte black. Their Diamond clear doesn't yellow like other rattle cans. I bought a gravity fed cup HVLP gun from Harbor Freight for $20 or $30 bucks. Keep it really clean and it still works like new at 13 to 15 psi. Happy, happy. Joy, joy! Most definitively use moisture separators, big one on my 80 gallon vertical compressor. Small one on the gun itself.

Bond for all should be part of the registration fees. They'd catapult me over Trump's wall, pendahos.

Clamp off the return line a little bit more at a time. Adjust the clutch pedal, it worked for me on my 240. It slipped so bad I could hardly back up the driveway then after adjusting I could chirp the tires. It's measurements are in the FSM.

I'll check in the morning but those Hewes boxes have stainless steel 35mm reels in them.

Sorry be such a pain, it's not for me, but a square exhaust gasket should work over the round exhaust n47 head with injector notches? A SU gasket for the 240s would work on a n47 head? Thank you Steve, I can pass that on without worrying about "alternative facts".

I hope it's things work out like you're shooting for. Does a square exhaust seal off on the mn47? Not to long ago someone was wanting to put carbs on a n47 and I wondered out loud if the intake gasket with the EFI notches would work. Hopefully he can read this and decide.

Mr Purcell I had a the same color combo as your 240 but recently sold it. I remember a conversation about the correct rocker stripes and since then have found some for a good price. I can't remember if you already had your's or not but here's the link. http://stripegarage.com/collections/datsun-240z-260z-280z/products/datsun-240-z-triple-stripe-vinyl-decal?variant=14729170374

Thank you Dennis! I've used up all my "Like this" for the day, again. I hope a fellow Z owner will be interested in it all, I tend to help out my peers.

I'm sorry for not mentioning that was a year old picture. I've got over 1,000 miles on it now and it's just now "loosening up". I believe like Matt does, get a strong reliable motor 1st and all the small stuff is actually fun doing, drinking beer makes it fun for me.

I can't remember if y'all are using a ground down cam but if you are do you know about the shorter valve seals fro Fel-Pro? Anything more than .460 needs these if I recall correctly. It's discussed in this thread about OE seals squashing down. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/68120-problem-with-viton-valve-seals/

Looks great! I can definitely see the cross hatch now. Keep on marching... Here's mine after the machine shop.