siteunseen

Google image search... https://www.google.com/search?q='79+280ZX+alternator+wires&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj4q56-1qXWAhVrxoMKHWFBA4wQ_AUICigC&biw=534&bih=272

I've always pictured a Dr Frankenstein type basement with a 280 chucked up on a lathe.

Rebelloracing.com would have them most likely, if you're in a hurry. I have seen tens of adds on ebay at a time for a small oversize ITM piston to fit a slightly cut cylinder bore. Zed Head has a great idea, search .5mm. Or go balls out like Dizeazed and have it cut to .030 & shave the head as much as possible without shimming the cam towers. Good luck, hopefully this won't be a big deal bump in the road for you.

That's a time capsule there! Beautiful car. Bumpers look new. Good luck on your sale.

The '77 thru '83 would be to accommodate the round exhaust ports off the head. Up until '76 with the N42 head they were square. MSA has different headers from '78 to the ZX??? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic19 Could you have it Mandrel bent at a local muffler shop?

Can't find the price now but they were as cheap from nissan as any other vendors.

I'd double check the part number, that looks way off.

Tough call. The 2+2s are heavier so the extra pep from flat tops would be nice. The stock '81 (I think) 2+2 junkyard motor I bought and tore apart had a P79 with flat tops. You don't want to make your helper mad but most folks get flat pistons from ITM, they are all over ebay.com. Are the pistons already connected to the rods? If your not looking for a hot rod and I'll say you're not, 2+2 ZXs are heavy, just stay the course. It may be a bunch of trouble for no noticeable gain. If you're having fun you'll end up with an earlier and lighter car to build a hot motor for. Here's a compression calculator that I've never been able to figure out but you might have better sense than me. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

Yes, great looking leap frog on your project plans. Congratulations. I've finally seen my "unicorn", '72 240 splash pan. You can still buy the door sill scuff plates from Nissan, I got two a few months ago. They're no longer wrapped in vinyl but a nice thick coat of textured paint. I'll put up the part number when I get back home.

Personally I think k&ns may help a newer model car. with all the crap you have to remove to get to the airbox on my camry a k&n would last longer than stock. They are made a little better and you pay for that. After rebuilding my 2.4 motor and carbs I didn't run any filters for the first week. Short blast through the back roads to get everything adjusted proper. When I put the airbox back on I had to lean them out a quarter of half a turn to get the right burn on my spark plugs. The OE box has very little restriction on air flow for my '72. Nissan still sales the metal air filter to, just like the one that came on it in '72. My $.02. Oh yeah, my answer for your question would be the same as k&ns on a dirt bike. You keep them oiled and no dust gets by. That would be useful if you off road your Z.

That's when I reach for this...

The last time I heard a loud bang there was a hole in my block. Rod cap created it and destroyed the block. I thought the starter was locked up.

Have you seen this thread? Might give you an idea

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/d/datsun-su-carbs-round-top/6296542272.html

Could you put a strong light down around the air and get a magnifying glass and look around real good? I'd think you could see a gap in the gasket if it's broken. Could be a hairline crack in the head? or it's warped and lifting up. Re-torque your head bolts from the centers to the outers and see if it still hisses.

My nozzles were sticking and not allowing them to drop on a 240 I bought that had been sitting. The gas had turned to varnish like and coated the the nozzle stem. The hoses had gotten stiff to. Cleaned the nozzles and replaced the hoses, good as new again. here's his site, http://www.ztherapy.com/. Click on "master price list".

That looks like a good bunker. Take care, don't eat all the good stuff first and hide your beer.

Three was too many for me. Move the trickle charger around from one to the other, that's all I did. I'm wanting another boat now...

Ztherapy has the rebuild kit you want. Nozzles, needles and a dvd that will make you an SU professional. It's a little shaky though so you may want to take some Dramamine.

I have it at home in a file for that car. I'm pretty sure I bought it through amazon.com, $100 maybe? The first motor I rebuilt I cheaped out and threw fifty or sixty bucks away and bought the cheapest one on ebay. When you take the block in those guys can get you rings and the right finish on the walls of the cylinders. Ask them what they think.

I like the graphite color of the light finisher for the spoiler on your car. I couldn't do it on my orange and black car.

That would definitely scare me far away from your car! That's something right out of "Christine".

Thank for the kind words, I appreciate them. After popping the freeze/core plugs out I found a lot of sludge in my 280's block and a TON in my 240's. For the small amount of money in my case, small town prices, I had both blocks chemically vatted then honed by a huge machine the shop has. I'm pretty sure he charged me $75 for the dip and machine hone. You'll get a clean block that will need paint which in turn will look like a new motor when installed. I used brass core plugs for a little extra "wow factor". One $5 can of engine spray paint is plenty for two good coats. You may want to google the different cylinder hones but if I remember correctly the chrome face rings get a smoother finish with smaller/finer ridges. Also I would buy the best timing kit you can afford. You can skimp on most other parts you'll need but don't do it on the timing chain and side guides. You'll see what I realized while doing mine, most parts for these older cars are made at one place but go by many different names. A lot of the part numbers are almost identical. If you follow Tom Monroe's How to Rebuild an L motor and use this forum's depth of knowledge from the members you'll have a good expirence and a better motor. Cliff

I've only had to do it once thank goodness but I mounted the new valve then the very back hose first, middle I think then the short one. A quarter inch socket and fittings was my life saver. Oh yeah, a big arse pillow over the door's sill plate. If I had to do it again I think I'd take the seat out but I managed to do it without removing it. Killed my back! Good luck with your's.