siteunseen

Your picture didn't up load. Mine have a upside down cone shaped tip on the end. There's also some info on here about using .130 weed eater cord for replacement of the original plastic drive line.

The odometer pic made me laugh. That's all I can say about that crispy cream 8 ted car.

I just went on a beer run and the roads are beginning to freeze here. The snow has moved on though. Yeah Patcon, the weather girls are pretty to look at but that's it. I believe that's all they need but then Al Roker???

...bad news Cliff is my full name. This is what I've used on another car. I'll look at zcardepot to see if they're similar. Thanks Jim.

Welp there goes my broadband and cable! DVDs and my phone for awhile. Dang!

Hey Jeff! I believe it to be a low milage car that had some EFI issues and was parked for many years before I bought it. The rubber on the pedals look almost new but the paint and the carpet both are faded from baking in the sun. The new key pops the lock down super easy but coming up it almost makes it then stops, I'm not forcing turning it too much. I have soaked the door's with WD-40 but haven't tried them today. Would white lithium be better? Hopefully I can get them working without removing the door panels. I'll read up on the "D" shaped rod, I know there's a lot of info on here. Thank you. Cliff

Limbs are breaking now. I've got my fingers crossed I will have power tonight. Good luck Charles.

I bought coated braided stainless lines off ebay for maybe $50 for all four. They worked out fine. Yours look too short to me, they are stretched. I think more length is what you need. If I remember right there is a difference between the fronts and the rears. Maybe you have fronts on the back?

Touchdown! Very nice looking car.

I got 2 keys for $10 from a local locksmith just by calling and giving him the code. Can't believe I haven't done this sooner. One key now for everything but it won't unlock the doors. It tries but just won't make it all the way. Is there any other way to get to the rod that needs to be bent other than removing the door panels? They've never been off and I hate that kind of meticulous gentle work. I'm more of a smash and grab kind of guy. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Awe man, bummer. When I tore my head gasket and had to pull the head off my newly rebuilt motor the forum said that since the head bolts hadn't been through a heat cycle they should be fine to re-use. That was two years ago and no issues since.

Me too! That's nice, reeeeal nice.

I'll check that out Mark. That's the sound I'm hearing, barley spinning throw out- not fully off the fingers of the pressure plate. Yes I do have an adjustable rod under the dash, but both cars have the newer self adjusting slave cylinder. There's a spec in the FSM for the clutch pedal to the floor I set them to but can't remember that number now. I'll break out the Big Book today and double check. Thank you Sir.

What do you use for one person bleeding? And do your Exedy throwout bearings whizz when the clutch is out? Mine do and I'm hoping a good bleed will stop it. Drives me nuts like an impact wrench.

I got mine out by grinding a groove with a Dremel then putting a screw with the head sticking out of my slide dent puller. Put the screw head in the groove and slid the weight back a couple of times, came right out. I have a smaller lighter starter from a ZX? from a project 240 I bought. The How to Modify book reccomends it because of the weight difference I suppose. It is a funny mount, flatter and the solenoid is on the side instead of the top. I believes that's the one I read might need shims? It's on my shelf of new but not yet used parts. That shelf is getting full to. I buy stuff and realize I don't have a race car. I need to use most of the pages to wipe my arse. Way too many cops around here for a fast car. Those days are gone but the river, now that's where I can hurt myself. Water patrol boats top out about 50 mph.

Yeah, eat a cheeseburger.

Ha! That's my ringtone, "da na na, da na na..."

Yes, good eyes.

I know this old girl we call Patina.

Lube up the linkage points, pedal to the rod on the intake. If it's no better add a spring. I put one on my hood latch base to the linkage coming through the firewall from the pedal when I first bought it. It could also be the dash pot plunger holding the rpms. Could be the starter too. If it doesn't get quiter pull the starter off and take to a parts store for testing. While you have it off pull the spark plugs and put in gear, roll it and shine a light where the starters nose meets the flywheel. Look for damaged teeth. Could be the starter isn't mounted properly, at an unhappy angle. Seems like I've read where people have to use shims to get them in line with the flywheel. Glad you got it going.

Are you building a show car or a reliable driving car? Round tops are soooo simple, even I figured them out pretty quick and that says a lot about the carbs and me.

The spaces around the doors and hood, all body panels should be equal distance. If they're off a little that could wear but if it's a lot they've probably been off and reinstalled poorly. Oops didn't read Mark's post, I'm saying the same thing he did. "Dog in heat delusion" that's funny, never heard that one but I know what you're saying. You're chasing anything.

Personally I would like the looks of 4 wheel drilled and slotted disc through my Rewinds. Those drums look bad to me but they do work very well on my car.

From wikipedia, First generation: Nissan 240Z (S30)[edit] Main article: Nissan S30 Datsun 240Z (S30) Sales of the Nissan Z Car started in October 1969 (for the 1970 model year), with separate versions for the Japanese and US markets. The Japanese Fairlady Z featured a 2.0L SOHC L20A inline-6 producing 130 hp (97 kW), while the US 240Z featured a 2.4L L24 inline-6 with twin Hitachi SU-type carburetors that produced 151 hp (113 kW) (SAE gross horsepower). A third Z, the Z432 (PS30) shared a performance version of the DOHC 2.0 L S20 engine with the Nissan Skyline 2000 GT-R. In Japan, the Z was still known as the Fairlady to keep the car in line with the previous generation Datsun Sports roadster. JDM versions had the Fairlady Z badge on the lower fenders with the 432 badge above (the 432 designation was 4 valves, 3 carburetors, and 2 camshafts). However, Yutaka Katayama ensured the American version had all Nissan, Fairlady Z, and 432 badging replaced with "Datsun" and prevented all dealer shipments until they were replaced.[citation needed] The 240Z was released in America on October 22, 1969. Combining good looks, and powerful performance, it sold over 45,000 units through the '71 model year and over 50,000 and 40,000 in 1972 and 1973, respectively. The 260Z was released in 1974; it featured an increased engine displacement of 2.6 L and an available 2+2 model with a slightly longer wheelbase. Despite the engine size increase, power decreased to 139 hp (104 kW) (SAE net horsepower) in most areas of the US due to new camshafts, carburetors, and lower compression that were introduced to comply with new emissions regulations. In other export regions the power was increased to 154 hp (115 kW). The 280Z was released in 1975 in North America (not to be confused with the 280ZX, which is a second-generation Z-car) and featured another engine displacement enlargement to 2.8 L. A major change was the introduction of Bosch fuel injection, replacing the previous SU carburetors. This resulted in a power increase to 170 hp (127 kW) (SAE gross horsepower), offsetting increased weight from added luxury features and an enlarged bumper that met US Federal regulations. Export markets outside North America continued to receive the Datsun 260Z until the introduction of the Datsun 280ZX at the end of 1978. Second generation: Nissan 280ZX (S130)[edit] Main article: Nissan S130 Nissan/Datsun 280ZX (S130) Known as the Datsun/Nissan 280ZX in export markets, the car continued to use the "Fairlady" moniker in the Japanese domestic market where 2-litre inline-six engines were also available and was first introduced in 1978. The only thing left unchanged from the previous 280Z was the 5-speed manual transmission and 2.8-liter L28 inline-6 engine, while the entire car overall was made more luxurious to meet growing consumer demands. Major changes for this new generation of Z-cars include t-tops, introduced in 1980, and a turbocharged model introduced in 1981, complementing the naturally aspirated (NA) 2-seater and NA 2+2 models. Coupled to either a 3-speed automatic or 5-speed manual transmission, the turbocharged model was capable of 180 bhp (130 kW) and 203 lbf·ft (275 N·m) of torque, over the 135 bhp (101 kW) and 144 lbf·ft (195 N·m) of the NA engine. Notable models include the 10th Anniversary Edition, featuring gold emblems, gold alloy wheels, and two-toned paint in either gold/red and black, with luxury features such as leather seats, headlamp washers, and automatic climate control. The 280ZX was wildly popular, being hailed as Motor Trend's Import Car of the Year for 1979 and going on to set a Z-car sales record of 86,007 units in its first year.[1] While on the one hand it received praise for taking the Z-car to further levels of comfort and performance, many enthusiasts also lamented the further emphasis on luxury over driving fun. This would continue with the third generation of Z-car, with a clean-sheet redesign that would take the Z-car to further heights.