siteunseen

Isn't there a small hole before the throttle plate that needs to be filled in as well? @Captain Obvious

No mosquitoes.

I had a big vacuum leak that took a while to find. It was where the EGR tube connects to the intake closest to the fire wall. It had come loose and over time the hot gases from the EGR rotted away the aluminum intake. It was close to the size of a golf ball. Here's a picture after the fact but you'll see if it's loose or not. You might see it best with a handheld mirror? It's on the underside, the picture was taken with the old one on my bench. Here's a better picture showing the general location. After some coffee I realize now the tube was most likely the one from the exhaust. I honestly don't remember

Good Ole Quint. 99 bottles of beer on the wall...

He drinks Natural Light. You'll be okay.

I liked the Black Diamond for stripping paint, plus the texture on some things. You can strain it and reuse it a couple of times. 50lbs for $10. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/black-diamond-fine-blasting-abrasives

I'm going to guess the machinest checked the cam's movement before he put the valve train on. $300 should cover something that simple.

I'm sure that's what I have on my car because I don't an extra on my Datsun parts rack. It may be a good idea to check further. Maybe @Diseazd would know fairly easy?

Side seals are at the bottom of this image. The bottom receipt.

I tried to find that image Zed Head but couldn't, thank you. When I lifted off the clutch pedal to coast up to a stop mine would stick around 1,500 to 2,000 rpm for about 15 seconds then drop down to normal. I adjusted the BCDD in just a quick ride through my neighborhood. When you get that locking clip thing off leave it at home and find some stop signs. Leave the hood loose too. Turn it one way and see if it gets better or worse. It's really easy. Mine also had a sticky gas pedal feel that would hang up or down. I cleaned the throttle body bottom under the throttle blade with a toothbrush and lacquer thinner.

Your's is Atari at best. The ECU controls the fuel injection. The computer tells that you left your lights on, if you want to call it a computer. Seems to me you want a Japanese car to to behave as a SBC. It doesn't from all I've read. They're different but we'll help as much as we can. Don't get tunnel vision or blinders on. So many options for your car.

My bcdd kept the rpms hanging or high when i came to a stop. Adjusted it out, now works normal. https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=Z6nMXfUegbaCB9CmstAH&q=bcdd+adjustment+classiczcars.com+&oq=bcdd+adjustment+classiczcars.com+&gs_l=mobile-gws-wiz-hp.12..33i299j33i160.5018.24393..25944...0.0..1.314.2789.1j19j0j1......0....1.......8..41j41i10j41i70i249j41i67j46i275j0j46j0i131j0i10j0i22i10i30j0i22i30.yUtRwNohHR

Not the air dam but I have that 2.5" performance exhaust from MSA. It scrapes though. I have to really aware of that too, my car is lowered and when I get on a "scrape" knowing I have to keep going draws my balls inside my body.

Thank you Jim! It's never scraped since I've had it and theres no damage on the bottom side of the lip so I'll say scraping isn't a problem. There's not much distance between the spoiler and the tires is all I can think of. I also use a ZX radiator which sits a few inches lower than OE. Never scraped or bumped. I can't say anything about the actual purpose of front or rear spoilers, I just think they look good. The Xenon on front of my 280 made a big difference at higher speed lifting. I am more of a red light to red light speeder driving my 240. The 280 is heavier and handles way better up top. If you all need more pics I would be glad to post more. Cliff

Here's a few I took inside. Its cold out. More of the difference between the two was my intention but I'm no photographer so I'll post them all. Like I said earlier I like the way my car looks. Spoilers were a big thing in the '70s from what I remember.

Mine is similar with dealer installed spoilers. The rear is the early style with the emblem stuck on back of the spoiler. I like mine a lot. I removed mine and had them repainted when I bought the car. Reinstalling was a horrible job and took me most of a night. The two far end nuts are damn near impossible but you can get them. Buy Band-Aids. Here's the only shot I have on phone of the rear. Latest version with rubber free bumpers and different sunlight.

I want the boots you guys wear! They have to be better than the crap we're buying. Bates and Danner is what i find but your experience would be definitive to me. Oh yeah, I have about $500 in Thorlos.

Just a simple way to knock the sweeper looose is to hit the black box on the afm with the unbussiness end of a screwdriver. Those small things get stuck by spider webs, tps and the vane. Did you pressure wash the engine bay? That could be an issue until it all dries.

Yes they do know our small market and keep us "fed".

This will be very helpful. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ Thank you and your friends @240260280 for this deep well of knowledge. It was and still is a life saver for me! ?

I am a babbling fool and thanks to you guys and gals that's okay. I won't be jailed or worse. Thank you for all you've done for us. Cliff

Check the air box and filter. Could be full of acorns. The sweeper vane on the afm could be stuck. Tps could be sticking on idle side. Fuel filter could be clogged etc. As Zed Head says more info.

Bring a trailer, bat.com. is what I would do for mine. They seem to bring the best prices right now. Ebay has gotten to be a flippers source. They won't get top $$$. Take some pictures and post it up here. You'll be pleastly surprised as to what it's worth from our "peanut gallery". ?