Captain Obvious

Getting back to clocks and such.... @HusseinHolland, did you try reducing the 2M resistance to see if your clock would start without a push?

Haha!! Of course you do! I think I remember seeing them when I was there.

Quick web search indicated that the Bosch unit is triggered by a hall effect sensor and therefore does not contain the circuitry to deal with the Datsun VR pickup. Bummer. Would have been a neat modification.

Haha!!

Oh, and just to be ridiculous... Here's how I measure capacitance. Put the cap in parallel with a known inductance, hit it with an impulse function, and then simply measure the harmonic response: Little bit of algebra, and you got it!

Geeez Dave!! Who's older? You or that Heathkit?

Are you looking for input into how the pieces were machined and constructed, or input into details about the finish applied after construction?

Well I think that leaves you in a not-too-bad spot. If it started all by itself sitting loose with a 9V, but then would NOT start all assembled off the car battery, then that would be more of a problem and mystery. If it never starts by itself but will run indefinitely if given a push, that's easier to deal with. My quick hit "from my armchair" would be to try a slightly lower value resistor in place of the 2 Meg. Maybe try 1.8 Meg instead. Just to test things, you could parallel another high value resistor (like a 2M or 1.8M) across the existing 2Meg resistor. Just clip it across to see if it will start by itself then. If that works, then you could desolder the 2M and replace it.

Did it start by itself on the bench when you had it apart? With a 9V battery?

Here's a chart comparing the 023 (Z sensor) and the 028 (Volvo sensor). If you do some water bath testing on either sensor, let me know how the testing compares to the chart:

Got it. I will poke around with that data and see what I can come up with.

Nice work. I was going to suggest a threaded rod through the center, but I wasn't sure if removing the material out of the center would weaken the shaft to the point of being a problem. If I remember my statics theory, most of the torsional stress should be close to the surface. Couple weld dots and hopefully you're OK.

You need a pair of suspenders for that car now. (Taking a chance that it translates......)

I saw those data points. I'm looking for more. With the turn of the page, you maybe missed that clarification?

Haha! Honestly, I was just kidding about the whole process. I assumed that the inner cavity never saw any of the de-rusting chemicals. I was poking fun.

When you run your oil pump with the drill, do you see a bunch of oil oozing out from around the cam journals?

Oh, and to clarify... Do you have MORE temp/resistance points for the 028 than what you already posted above? The more, the better. 0 280 130 028: 8500-11500 @ 68ºF 770-1320 @ 176ºF

I couldn't dig up any data for the 028 on the web. Do you have temp/resistance points from the Volvo service manual for that sensor? The only reference I could find for that sensor in what I have here is that it was used on the Volvo 760. That's the only application data I could find. 760 02.82 - 04.86 V6 2.8L K-Jetronic (Lambda)Coolant Temp. Sensor 0 280 130 028 8/83>

Before you put the head back on, take a real good look to try to make sure the passages are clear in the head. Compressed air. Carb cleaner blast. Something. Also, you can take the lids off the distribution blocks on the spray bar and get a better straight on carb cleaner blast down into the tubes. Not sure if you did that, but if you are only getting a dribble out of the cam towers with the bar not even installed, then your problem is somewhere further upstream. So how about the obvious... Head gasket has the proper holes in it for oil to get up to the head? Cam tower shims without a hole in them? Cam towers installed in the correct orientation? (Is it even possible to put them in backwards?) Wadded up pieces of paper towel stuffed into the oil holes in the head so it didn't dribble all over your workbench?

That aluminum chunk is probably molded onto the splined shaft. And if that's the case, I don't think you would be able to get that shaft out without destroying the aluminum portion. There's probably a feature built into that steel shaft to insure that those two pieces rotate as one. Maybe some splines buried down in there or a square cross sectioned area or something. Cross pin. Something. So I still think the extendo collar is the first thing I would try. Either welded or set-screwed into place.

I'm really confused... You said "I love this method of de-rusting: gets into all the places I can’t with a brush!" But then you found all that rust inside!! I though it got into all the places??? Sorry, but I'm lost.

Here's an excerpt from an old Bosch catalog that indicates that the 280ZX (which is the same as the 280Z) uses the 0 280 130 023: And here's a chart I derived from the resistance points found in the Z service manuals:

I took a quick look at a window regulator yesterday and making a whole new part to replace the original shaft would be a large undertaking. Not only would you have to deal with the gear on the other end of the device, but the whole thing is riveted together originally and you would have to figure out a way to put it back together. I think there is enough length there to cut off the original and put in an extendo collar. The other things to look into would be "Is there enough room in the system to allow for the increase in diameter an extendo collar would cause?" In other words... Is there enough room to increase that diameter or will it hit the door frame or door panel or something? If there is clearance, I would try an extendo tube device of some sort. Make it a precision fit onto the old shaft diameter and use setscrews to hold it in place?

Haha! Nice fountain! You could do the same test again with the head installed but without the spray bar. See how much oil comes out sideways from the cam towers where the bar attaches. Should be a substantial amount just like your fountain.

And as for the mechanical gauge, I think you could put a couple wraps of teflon tape around the 1/8th-27NPT gauge and be OK enough for a test. It might seep a little at the joint, but not enough to affect the pressure reading. Just don't crank it down so much that you deform any metal on the threads. I would test fit one of your gauges and see if you get a couple good turns on the gauge before it starts to tighten up. If you get a couple turns, I think it will be fine for a temporary test.