cgsheen1

That's not the only attachment. It's held in place on both sides by the tail light surrounds and also by the license plate. If everything else is in place, it's kinda stuck there...

There's more to window movement than just the regulator so do yourself a favor and break the whole thing down. Take the squegee and trim piece off the door, remove the window frame - you'll probably need to unbolt and possibly remove the forward guide but you'll want that out anyway to clean and lube, remove the glass, remove the regulator, remove the short horizontal guide that's amidships in the door (cuz you probably want to clean and lube it too. Check the felt running down the lower portion of the frame. May not still be there - I nearly always replace than with a strip of window channel. It keeps the window glass from bouncing around and provides a glide path as it goes down. You usually don't have to mess with the lock and latch stuff but now's to opportunity to make sure all that stuff is cleaned and working too so you don't have to crack the door open again in the near future. Then check all the parts for wear or damage and clean and lube as needed. I've found it often takes more time and effort to get one little thing out and back it than to dis-and-reassemble the whole thing.

Various sections show a simplified schematic for each circuit examined designed to give you a basic idea of how the appurtenance is wired. Not a detailed schematic of the entire circuit or system. Note also that the wiring diagram - even though it's complete - doesn't actually show how each wire is actually laid out in the various harnesses. You usually have to dig a little deeper - which you eventually did... Looking at the wiring diagram, one might say that since your megasquirt is now firing your coil rather than the TIU, that the blue wire should have been disconnected from the (soon to be abandoned) TIU itself and connected instead to the megasquirt output to the coil. I had a question about this: Megasquirt only needs the one connection to the (-) side of a single coil system in a Z since the stock B/W wire provides power at IGN ON to the (+) side of the coil. If you removed the ballast, the B/W simply needs to be transferred from the ballast to the coil (+). The B/W wire(s) in a Z are always battery voltage at IGN ON. That may simplify your wiring - as would just using the L wire removed from the TIU under the dash to connect to the MS coil output. Then you wouldn't need additional wires to the coil (just leave in place the stock L and B/W)... It's been a few years since I used a single coil with MS but I'm pretty sure that's accurate.

Now that the contacts are burnished they will develop arc burns faster and fail sooner. Driving mine daily in Phoenix they'd last about 6 months before I'd need to take the switch apart and clean them again (that's with a fair amount of surface street and freeway driving - meaning a fair amount of signaling). After 5 or 6 iterations I gave up and found a "new" switch (that had fewer miles on it). It's been going for three or four years without any problems. I actually wish there was a way to recoat the contacts.

There have been numerous posts about this topic (changing ignition systems) and the stock tach. Most probably years ago but still in the ecosystem. A quick look at the EFI wiring schematics shows the economical way Nissan did the wiring to the tach. It tees off the Ignition Unit wiring rather than run separately from the ignition coil. I know that they hide it away under the dash, but why would you assume that the original Ignition Unit could just be left in place? I would think it should always be removed just as a matter of fact when you're changing ignition design. That's the way I did mine (well, long before megasquirt, but still...).

I have a problem with both 😒

Do you think you only have 4 pounds of vacuum (I'm assuming at idle?)? Maybe you should check. I have much more vacuum than that at idle. At less than 36.3psi MINUS current vacuum pressure. (you seem to still act (forgive me if I'm wrong) as if fuel pressure is a static (constant) value - and it's not - not with a running engine. It changes by the millisecond with changes in the manifold pressure (which changes every millisecond). You can't really catch it without sensors and equipment and probably data logging - and you don't really need to. (I can watch it on my boost gauge (MAP gauge) or on my laptop with the Megasquirt software and I can datalog MAP and FP - most people can't, and don't really need to) IF you turn on the fuel pump - while the engine IS NOT running - and you have fuel pressure of ~36.3psi, you're jake, move along. OR if you pull the vacuum reference tubing OFF the FPR and you have fuel pressure of ~36.3, Bob's your Uncle. move along. You've never said you get those values. I can't help but think that you're focusing on the wrong thing here (while still feeling that your fuel pressure is all kinds of wrong - BUT - IF your fuel pressure is actually what you state above, your engine should be running RICH, not lean...)) Have you checked the filters on the injectors themselves for debris? You pulled the fuel rail? The injectors all squirt and squirt the same? Have you tried isolating a troubled cylinder by removing the injector lead and noting the change or lack thereof in engine operation? (which you should have done very first) That's just a start. I really only entered this thread to RANT about the misinformation surrounding EFI FUEL PRESSURE and I'm sure everyone agrees that I've already ranted way more than enough...

No. Fuel pressure in an EFI engine IS NOT CONSTANT. An EFI L-Series engine DOES NOT have a fuel pressure of 36.3 at IDLE! It has a fuel pressure of 36.3 MINUS whatever the intake manifold VACUUM psi is AT THE TIME... If it doesn't, something is wrong. FSM: 13. Pressure Regulator "The pressure regulator controls the pressure of fuel so that a pressure difference of 2.55 kg/cm2 (36.3 psi) can be maintained between the fuel pressure and intake vacuum. This constant differential pressure provides optimum fuel injection in every mode of engine operation." Isn't that what I just said? Logic: Under LOAD the intake vacuum DECREASES - that means MORE FUEL (eg. MAP -2psi (36.3 - 2 = 34.3psi)). You want more fuel under load (you have your foot in the firewall OR you're climbing a hill...). Under less load (you're cruising straight and level at a constant speed) there is MORE intake vacuum (less load) and fuel pressure to the injectors DECREASES - because you need less fuel (eg. MAP -8psi (36.3 - 8 = 28.3psi)). And if your foot comes OFF the accelerator, the intake vacuum MAXES OUT and you have the LOWEST fuel pressure. (eg. MAP -13 (36.3 - 13 = 23.3psi)) Why do you need fuel when you're rapidly decelerating? Changing the fuel pressure to the injectors controls the fuel flow and is used in conjunction with continually changing the injector pulse width by the ECU. BUT - the ECU IS ALWAYS expecting the fuel pressure to be: "a pressure difference of 2.55 kg/cm2 between the fuel pressure and intake vacuum"! If you screw with that pressure, you've just screwed over your stock ECU...

S30 FPR EF Engine Fuel.pdf No. The fuel pressure regulator is supposed to maintain a pressure differential of ~36.3 PSI between the intake manifold pressure and fuel pressure. Hence the "vacuum reference tube" between the manifold and the FPR. IF you have a MAP of -10 PSI (10 pounds of vacuum), the fuel pressure should be ~26.3 PSI. If you have 10 pounds of BOOST, the fuel pressure should be ~46.3 PSI. IF the engine is NOT running but the fuel pump IS (ZERO MAP), the fuel pressure should read ~36.3 PSI. The same should happen with the vacuum reference tube disconnected. If your pressure readings are correct above, your engine should be running RICH! Again, IF your pressure gauge is correct, the pressure reading of 40 PSI with the vacuum reference tube disconnected would show that your FPR is allowing 4 more PSI than it should (40 rather than 36 PSI). (Still, going by your readings, looks to me like you're running 8 PSI of manifold pressure (-8 PSI MAP) which doesn't sound like quite enough vacuum to me... Maybe you should check to see what your MAP actually is. (Well, my L28ET runs about -10 PSI or so at idle - maybe it's not that far off))

Rubber, plastic and vinyl get crispy here in Arizona. I've used Hyper Dressing many times to breathe some life back into them but it's not instantaneous. I've put parts slathered with HD in a plastic bag for 2-3 weeks ...

The Meguiars product to soften it up is Hyper Dressing. But it'll take a while... Heat carefully applied should work to reshape, but it depends on what has damaged it.

Aw, it'd be a great trip - it's 75 degrees here right now... Kidding aside, I kinda doubt it would be the same as a 240Z - we have those stupid pistons and in stock form (who has factory rears anymore??) the rear bumper is still slim for the early 260, but mounted on the pistons and pushed away from the body. And then the lates have the park bench bumpers (most likely removed also!). edit: Just sent them an e-mail - we'll see what they come back with about waitlist time...

Early - like mine. While I don't need or want a trailer hitch, this is an intriguing proposition - and the central U-Haul facility is very close. Plus, it might make them available country wide... I may check into this.

Wow. Right in my backyard. Jeff, is your 260 an early or late?

Nope, you have it correct - taller edge on the outside. The quarter window is meant to push BACK and IN to set the gasket properly and it's generally difficult (nope, near impossible) to do by yourself. BUT, it should never cause scratching paint... (the gasket should always keep the metal frame away from the body - so are you sure your frame is correct?) I usually start with the window set about 1/4" - 1/2" away from being flush with the mount tabs and forward, then push it AFT and INBOARD while someone else tries to get a screw started. Unfortunately the Precision weatherstrip is not the easiest to work with...

fits in the channel, pointy side inboard. Might need adhesive - I don't have a late with that particular weatherstrip. I've installed it, but I'm not the guy opening and closing the door day after day.

Meguiars Hyper Dressing

Okay, I'll readily admit that I didn't read every post in this thread with great care BUT: The insulation on the wire between the solenoid and the starter motor should NOT be burned to he!!... AND, looking at the bottom terminal on the solenoid, that nut and stud look to me like they have both overheated to an alarming degree! At a minimum you need to remove that wire from the solenoid and check everything for oxidation. I would also remove the charred insulation and check the wire inside. (And, if it were me, I'd probably not use that starter...) Just my opinion.

Well, you don't want the original motor OR the original squirrel cage. That's the point. With the Kia blower both are an upgrade. I've never seen a Kiz squirrel cage quite like the one you've pictured though... The stock foam spacers have to be removed. I've done a few of these swaps since I did mine originally and I've ALWAYS had to trim the hole in the blower box to accept the Kia squirrel cage. If you do it properly, all the stock material can go back if anyone decides to return the blower to factory parts. Note that the mount holes on the blower may not line up exactly either, but they're close and plastic so it's easy to modify. As I've said a BUNCH of times: The stock duct system in the Z SUCKS! The Kia blower helps because it uses brute force to increase the airflow. (I also have the great fortune to have the Hayhurst designed Ultra Heaven Center Ductwork replacement, so I have incredible airflow, but he never produced these for sale...) When you're trimming the hole, do it a little at a time. You're going to tilt the squirrel cage in - NOT DROP IT IN STRAIGHT - so the trimmed hole doesn't need to be a perfect circle AND/OR the exact diameter of the Kia squirrel cage. I wish I'd made a YouTube video of how I did mine... Mine was the junkyard find all those many years ago, I daily drive Goldie in Phoenix Arizona (anyone sick of hearing me say that yet?), I demand that my A/C works at it's peak (Raised in Idaho, never got used to the Arizona heat) - the Kia Blower has never failed me.

That's about the farthest thing away from an L28ET that you can get (oh, wait,, Koenigsegg)... And with the correct turbo setup it slides into boost smooth as silk - it's not an unexpected or abrupt gush of power. For everyone else reading - my opinions and observations: You control boost with your RIGHT foot. I've heard what you said above before and in the 12 years I've (almost) daily driven this car I've (almost) never had that happen and I drive it up the mountain through the twisties as often as I can. The L28ET in a Z is a beast uphill and if you have the proper friction doesn't do too bad downhill either. Some people have this weird notion - Wait, story: Close friend and Z enthusiast is restoring a Z - thinking that his wife will drive it (he's already been driving a 260Z for years). He has a spare L28ET. He's talking to me about what engine to put in "his wife's Z" (ya... she's rarely, if ever, gonna drive it...). I (of course) suggest the turbo motor. He says "well, the wife is going to drive it, so it needs to be simple and reliable ("and not overly powerful" he didn't say but meant)". I said: Does your carbed Z start right up, not require any choke, run quite smoothly even when it's COLD (okay, it never really gets COLD here in Phoenix... but you know what I mean) And I'm NOT saying every carbed Z is a PITA to start or start cold - we've had plenty in the shop that start and run like a dream. But we've had others that most chicks would try once and bounce - back to their Lexus or Acura... When you're not in boost the turbo engine drives like any other normal car. If you want to drive it like a grandma, you CAN. I can putt around at 25 MPH all day long! It doesn't care. (and if the setup is correct, going into boost just provides very controllable acceleration power) What were turbochargers invented for? Cars? NO! AIRCRAFT... And in an airplane they need to be AS SIMPLE AND RELIABLE AS HUMANLY POSSIBLE! What about all the guys having problems with their turbo's or blowing up their engines? They DON'T have the correct turbo setup for the application and/or they're pushing the turbo beyond it's specs OR they don't have the correct tune - or all of the above. AND - You control boost with YOUR RIGHT FOOT! Other things: But EFI is more complicated than carbs! Uh, does every other car in town have carbs??? Are they all broken down on the side of the road every day? I'll say that you had to have a fair amount of learning to rebuild, install, and PROPERLY SYNC and TUNE your twin SU carburetors. EFI is a slightly different learning process BUT guess what? It still takes SPARK, FUEL, & TIMING. But, turbo motor requires re-wiring, maybe a standalone ECU (not maybe), and maybe charge pipe and stuff - it's expensive... How much money to build an N/A stroker, or a 3 liter, or head work to get an L28 to make 180-200 RWHP?? Ya, it's expensive, SO - sixes? How do you take a turbo motor from 180 RWHP to 250 RWHP? Turn up the boost from .5 BAR to less than 1.0 BAR and retune... About 11-12 pounds or so. How do you do that in an N/A? I want my Z to make 350 RWHP -- NO, YOU DON'T! Not without extensive chassis and suspension modification! 300 RWHP applied aggressively will twist a Z unibody apart. Ask me how I know = Bella in Surprise Arizona... okay bracing for the onslaught...

Wow... And "turbo lag"? 🙄 sigh... If you're not doing a turbo swap, at least go with ITB's and NOT SU's or Triples (I'd favor SU's over triples if you must). Jim's Swiss 240Z with just a mild cam and ITB's (and a good tune with a decent ECU) made 180 RWHP (prob a 110 HP engine before) - which is kinda stock turbo numbers but won't have the torque of the L28ET. Lastly, if you're not going to turbo swap, get those L28ET's to someone who will use them! Really lastly - why in heck would you ask about anything turbo in this forum???

Either way you break the circuit and stop the pump if the inertia switch is tripped.

Yup, bought those in Feb 2020 for my H4 housings and love them.

I ran the stock R180 3.36 behind my L28ET for years before my kids shamed (badgered) me into swapping to an R200. Personally, both me and my turbo motor were just fine with the R180 but it made the kids happy for some reason... You NEED an R200 = Internet Wisdom.

If you pulled the compressor back there and didn't seal up the hardlines to the evaporator, chances are the expansion valve components inside have rusted and it may be Borked. Here there's a much less chance of that happening. You might see if you can push A/C cleaner through the liquid line (at the firewall?) and catch what comes out the suction line in a rag. If your expansion valve is OK I'd say it's definitely worth keeping. It's pretty easy to flush all the other parts. Get a new Sanden, have a couple of hoses made for the compressor conversion, replace the dryer, charge with 134a...