cgsheen1

There is no pressure (other than weight of the fluid) in the transmission. Most people tighten both the fill and drain much tighter than they need to be. They only need to be as tight as not to leak. I used to recommend just using Teflon tape on the threads but now use Loctite 567 Thread Sealant and only tighten to snug or slightly past. (got pretty sick of having to use a 3 foot cheater bar to remove customers fill plugs and an impact on the drain...) (I'm a journeyman plumber and spent 35 years cutting and threading pipe. Just like flare fittings, there's science to threaded pipe fittings - which the fill and drain plugs are - just like there's science to the dissimilar metals involved. Tightening a threaded fitting too much is as bad or worse than not tightening enough. "Pipe dope", Teflon, cutting oil (lubricant) it used to control heat caused by friction. Too much friction (heat) causes micro fractures in the metal of the thread which means leak. So, the Teflon is actually more of a lube than a "seal"... Also the more torque you put on it, the more friction there is, more heat to damage the metal. - There, I've given my unsolicited plumbing advice for the day!)

Remove the clutch master push rod like Zed Head said - then you can wiggle the fork a little. I've never had to remove the spring and we've pulled (and re-installed) a BUNCH of master cylinders (every single one a PITA)... We've pulled out pins that were worn nearly in half! That's an item that doesn't usually get much preventative maintenance. However - I DON'T BLAME THEM...

It isn't easy even when things are stock and not worn. It is typical for the pin to become worn (read: grooved). The groove may (may... what am I saying... WILL) hamper the pin movement. In that case you need to move (wiggle) the pedal while you're prying the pin to find the "sweet spot" that will get the pin to move. (and that's if the wear hasn't created a ridge on the pin that also hampers it's removal...) For me, I cuss at it for longer than I should - then make my son do it. I too would like to see the guy who would be able to weld anywhere near that pin... and live.

Ya. On the ground. Make sure your bleed tube goes UP and as high as practical. Air bubbles like to travel up, not down. I don't need a speed bleeder and I do it solo. Same with brakes (although it IS helpful then to have the car off the ground...). I use something akin to this: https://www.amazon.com/FIRSTINFO-Service-Bleeder-Receiver-Non-Return/dp/B010PXUN58/ref=sims_dp_d_dex_ai_speed_loc_touchpoints_mtl_t1_d_sccl_2_1/147-1001020-7876828?pd_rd_w=jJ4sc&content-id=amzn1.sym.3daf75cc-f171-40a9-8276-038202e9f8f1&pf_rd_p=3daf75cc-f171-40a9-8276-038202e9f8f1&pf_rd_r=9CH4W7CA6QJPFA5CTPVJ&pd_rd_wg=8JGXW&pd_rd_r=b2ec40e3-63b6-4cce-87dc-10c7bed01ff2&pd_rd_i=B010PXUN58&th=1

Same. Did H4 housings and bulbs several years ago and swapped to LED replacements 3 or 4 years ago. No sweat.

No, my '74 frame was always manual so I didn't make any alterations to the tunnel. I don't remember if my 260 even had a transmission when I got it. I did the turbo swap first thing. I have a wide ratio 5 speed and don't like the gearing so I'm running a close ratio ZX transmission. The auto trans swap we did in a complete 260/280 frame was the 1975 all original 280Z from PA Museum car. We removed the original stock console, removed all the auto transmission specific hardware and trim, cut the forward part of the trans tunnel along the top sheet metal line, installed a 71B 5 speed with new boots on the trans, trans tunnel, and console. You can't tell from the inside that it's a swap, you can from the engine bay.

They are. We did a auto-to-5 speed swap in the '75 280Z and the console didn't change. The auto trans bits came off and manual shift boots went on. We just trimmed the trans tunnel hole forward using the upper piece of sheet metal as a guide. Then just check the shift lever clearance. I have a close ratio ZX 5 speed in my 260 and I definitely bent the rod - BUT I used the straightish ZX shifter, not the early Z shift lever...

I don't know if this is "internet wisdom" or not but I've generally heard that the cast iron impeller is more efficient than the stamped impeller. The old timers always seemed to recommend the cast iron. If you have the proper coolant mix there is no reason to select stainless over cast on the corrosion issue.

They certainly did and you can tell from his picture above that he has a 260/280 style clutch pedal. The 240Z clutch pedal was thinner metal and had a curve from top to bottom to give it strength. Then you can talk about the changes in the pedal boxes from series one on as the brake booster changed dimensions...

There's no real reason to leave it up and in the way. It's just four bolts forward of the clamshell to remove and then push it down. Just as easy to raise it and bolt it back up when the dash is back in.

Yes, there are metal inserts in the foam with holes and most are accurately placed. Have installed a couple 260/280 and a few 240. Not saying that they are entirely plug and play but well worth the effort and an extremely nice end result.

That's not the only attachment. It's held in place on both sides by the tail light surrounds and also by the license plate. If everything else is in place, it's kinda stuck there...

There's more to window movement than just the regulator so do yourself a favor and break the whole thing down. Take the squegee and trim piece off the door, remove the window frame - you'll probably need to unbolt and possibly remove the forward guide but you'll want that out anyway to clean and lube, remove the glass, remove the regulator, remove the short horizontal guide that's amidships in the door (cuz you probably want to clean and lube it too. Check the felt running down the lower portion of the frame. May not still be there - I nearly always replace than with a strip of window channel. It keeps the window glass from bouncing around and provides a glide path as it goes down. You usually don't have to mess with the lock and latch stuff but now's to opportunity to make sure all that stuff is cleaned and working too so you don't have to crack the door open again in the near future. Then check all the parts for wear or damage and clean and lube as needed. I've found it often takes more time and effort to get one little thing out and back it than to dis-and-reassemble the whole thing.

Various sections show a simplified schematic for each circuit examined designed to give you a basic idea of how the appurtenance is wired. Not a detailed schematic of the entire circuit or system. Note also that the wiring diagram - even though it's complete - doesn't actually show how each wire is actually laid out in the various harnesses. You usually have to dig a little deeper - which you eventually did... Looking at the wiring diagram, one might say that since your megasquirt is now firing your coil rather than the TIU, that the blue wire should have been disconnected from the (soon to be abandoned) TIU itself and connected instead to the megasquirt output to the coil. I had a question about this: Megasquirt only needs the one connection to the (-) side of a single coil system in a Z since the stock B/W wire provides power at IGN ON to the (+) side of the coil. If you removed the ballast, the B/W simply needs to be transferred from the ballast to the coil (+). The B/W wire(s) in a Z are always battery voltage at IGN ON. That may simplify your wiring - as would just using the L wire removed from the TIU under the dash to connect to the MS coil output. Then you wouldn't need additional wires to the coil (just leave in place the stock L and B/W)... It's been a few years since I used a single coil with MS but I'm pretty sure that's accurate.

Now that the contacts are burnished they will develop arc burns faster and fail sooner. Driving mine daily in Phoenix they'd last about 6 months before I'd need to take the switch apart and clean them again (that's with a fair amount of surface street and freeway driving - meaning a fair amount of signaling). After 5 or 6 iterations I gave up and found a "new" switch (that had fewer miles on it). It's been going for three or four years without any problems. I actually wish there was a way to recoat the contacts.

There have been numerous posts about this topic (changing ignition systems) and the stock tach. Most probably years ago but still in the ecosystem. A quick look at the EFI wiring schematics shows the economical way Nissan did the wiring to the tach. It tees off the Ignition Unit wiring rather than run separately from the ignition coil. I know that they hide it away under the dash, but why would you assume that the original Ignition Unit could just be left in place? I would think it should always be removed just as a matter of fact when you're changing ignition design. That's the way I did mine (well, long before megasquirt, but still...).

I have a problem with both 😒

Do you think you only have 4 pounds of vacuum (I'm assuming at idle?)? Maybe you should check. I have much more vacuum than that at idle. At less than 36.3psi MINUS current vacuum pressure. (you seem to still act (forgive me if I'm wrong) as if fuel pressure is a static (constant) value - and it's not - not with a running engine. It changes by the millisecond with changes in the manifold pressure (which changes every millisecond). You can't really catch it without sensors and equipment and probably data logging - and you don't really need to. (I can watch it on my boost gauge (MAP gauge) or on my laptop with the Megasquirt software and I can datalog MAP and FP - most people can't, and don't really need to) IF you turn on the fuel pump - while the engine IS NOT running - and you have fuel pressure of ~36.3psi, you're jake, move along. OR if you pull the vacuum reference tubing OFF the FPR and you have fuel pressure of ~36.3, Bob's your Uncle. move along. You've never said you get those values. I can't help but think that you're focusing on the wrong thing here (while still feeling that your fuel pressure is all kinds of wrong - BUT - IF your fuel pressure is actually what you state above, your engine should be running RICH, not lean...)) Have you checked the filters on the injectors themselves for debris? You pulled the fuel rail? The injectors all squirt and squirt the same? Have you tried isolating a troubled cylinder by removing the injector lead and noting the change or lack thereof in engine operation? (which you should have done very first) That's just a start. I really only entered this thread to RANT about the misinformation surrounding EFI FUEL PRESSURE and I'm sure everyone agrees that I've already ranted way more than enough...

No. Fuel pressure in an EFI engine IS NOT CONSTANT. An EFI L-Series engine DOES NOT have a fuel pressure of 36.3 at IDLE! It has a fuel pressure of 36.3 MINUS whatever the intake manifold VACUUM psi is AT THE TIME... If it doesn't, something is wrong. FSM: 13. Pressure Regulator "The pressure regulator controls the pressure of fuel so that a pressure difference of 2.55 kg/cm2 (36.3 psi) can be maintained between the fuel pressure and intake vacuum. This constant differential pressure provides optimum fuel injection in every mode of engine operation." Isn't that what I just said? Logic: Under LOAD the intake vacuum DECREASES - that means MORE FUEL (eg. MAP -2psi (36.3 - 2 = 34.3psi)). You want more fuel under load (you have your foot in the firewall OR you're climbing a hill...). Under less load (you're cruising straight and level at a constant speed) there is MORE intake vacuum (less load) and fuel pressure to the injectors DECREASES - because you need less fuel (eg. MAP -8psi (36.3 - 8 = 28.3psi)). And if your foot comes OFF the accelerator, the intake vacuum MAXES OUT and you have the LOWEST fuel pressure. (eg. MAP -13 (36.3 - 13 = 23.3psi)) Why do you need fuel when you're rapidly decelerating? Changing the fuel pressure to the injectors controls the fuel flow and is used in conjunction with continually changing the injector pulse width by the ECU. BUT - the ECU IS ALWAYS expecting the fuel pressure to be: "a pressure difference of 2.55 kg/cm2 between the fuel pressure and intake vacuum"! If you screw with that pressure, you've just screwed over your stock ECU...

S30 FPR EF Engine Fuel.pdf No. The fuel pressure regulator is supposed to maintain a pressure differential of ~36.3 PSI between the intake manifold pressure and fuel pressure. Hence the "vacuum reference tube" between the manifold and the FPR. IF you have a MAP of -10 PSI (10 pounds of vacuum), the fuel pressure should be ~26.3 PSI. If you have 10 pounds of BOOST, the fuel pressure should be ~46.3 PSI. IF the engine is NOT running but the fuel pump IS (ZERO MAP), the fuel pressure should read ~36.3 PSI. The same should happen with the vacuum reference tube disconnected. If your pressure readings are correct above, your engine should be running RICH! Again, IF your pressure gauge is correct, the pressure reading of 40 PSI with the vacuum reference tube disconnected would show that your FPR is allowing 4 more PSI than it should (40 rather than 36 PSI). (Still, going by your readings, looks to me like you're running 8 PSI of manifold pressure (-8 PSI MAP) which doesn't sound like quite enough vacuum to me... Maybe you should check to see what your MAP actually is. (Well, my L28ET runs about -10 PSI or so at idle - maybe it's not that far off))

Rubber, plastic and vinyl get crispy here in Arizona. I've used Hyper Dressing many times to breathe some life back into them but it's not instantaneous. I've put parts slathered with HD in a plastic bag for 2-3 weeks ...

The Meguiars product to soften it up is Hyper Dressing. But it'll take a while... Heat carefully applied should work to reshape, but it depends on what has damaged it.

Aw, it'd be a great trip - it's 75 degrees here right now... Kidding aside, I kinda doubt it would be the same as a 240Z - we have those stupid pistons and in stock form (who has factory rears anymore??) the rear bumper is still slim for the early 260, but mounted on the pistons and pushed away from the body. And then the lates have the park bench bumpers (most likely removed also!). edit: Just sent them an e-mail - we'll see what they come back with about waitlist time...

Early - like mine. While I don't need or want a trailer hitch, this is an intriguing proposition - and the central U-Haul facility is very close. Plus, it might make them available country wide... I may check into this.

Wow. Right in my backyard. Jeff, is your 260 an early or late?