Patcon

So let me get this straight. You have a stock looking radio that has been upgraded for AM/FM and Bluetooth?? How is it controlled? The stock buttons? App on your phone?

It worked well though. I am surprised the screen printing survived that

Oooff! That's no good! Be safe down range! C

I also worked on the E brake some. I am running Maxima rear calipers and getting a functioning E brake can be a challenge. I cut some thin self adhesive foam to back the ebrake mechanism with to help seal that up Then I worked on the cable to caliper connection. I tried it with the factory brackets I just used a bolt to connect the cable to the caliper but there is not enough travel and the spring on the end of the Ebrake cable coil binds before the brake really locks down. Also there is no good way to lock the E brake cable into the thick bracket So I came up with a plan. Straighten the brackets Then I will drill and tap them to accept the original E brake brackets like this So Cody came over and straightened them for me. I need to weld them up a little bit. Dress them down and then figure out where I need to mount them. I may have to make another cable too. I may need a little more length than the factory cable has. If I make a new cable, I will weld some clevis pins on the ends to make the transition to the caliper easier. We'll see...

So I bought the firewall kit from ZCarDepot. It was ok but it required some trimming. The square openings didn't seem big enough for the heater mount bosses. The round hole for the choke cable was missing, a couple of the mounting tabs in the lower corners and a couple of other minor little things. The firewall pad really needs to go in after you have all the grommets back in the firewall and before anything else. On that note if you're going to use a spray on sound proofing like I did, Lizard Skin, then it would be best if you leave the perimeter of all the holes free of that. The extra thickness makes getting the grommets in the firewall much tougher. Also the bosses on the firewall, the accelerator pedal and a few other things need to be masked off too. I also moved the snaps over to the new mat. I am assuming these help hold the floor mats in place? I am also unsure if they were shiny originally or black? The nuts on the back are 7mm and you need a good JIS screwdriver for the other side. I buffed these out on the wheel. I think they are chrome over brass. Non metallic and started to look like I was buffing through the chrome.

I work with wood for a living. I would agree the wood used in the wheels is no longer in a natural state. I have also found Zed to always try to be helpful and in most cases not contentious. I wouldn't consider the final steering wheel product to be a wooden wheel. I also wouldn't consider it to be plastic. I also wouldn't consider printer paper to be wooden or a fiberglass car to be glass or a cake to just be flour. Wood is a component in the wheel and has been manipulated and used to make a nice looking wheel that resembles a segmented wooden wheel. I don't know that it needs to be debated more than that. As for the BaT people that can't get over that; I don't let it bother me. As for my like of his post, yes in general, I agree with what he posted. I don't know if I know my Onions or not. I am sorry if I have disappointed you but this too shall pass...

A picture would help

The only two ways I know of for fuel to leak out the throats is the fuel bowls are over filling or the float levels are set too high. Overfilling can be caused by too much fuel pressure or a stuck needle valve

The used car market is under incredible downward pressure right now. The classic market is going to be affected by this too.

What technique was used to restore the VIN plates?

Thanks, Jim I'm trying to be more diligent about getting something done every week. Would like to have a runner this summer. That's a pretty big hill to climb. We'll see...

I have used a number of CompCams cams and never had an issue. @Diseazdmight have a better opinion on lift and duration

So I did go ahead and pop this one. I used a towel just in case it wanted to go into multiple pieces. It broke pretty clean I will try to glue it up later. I didn't feel like it today. Worked on the LSD brace today Got it in I also hung the ST sway bars I've had for 5 years or so I had to do some slight clearancing where it met the LSD brace. The inner fenders had foam on them as I recall. Do they have it on both edges or just one edge?

Good idea!

Thanks guys! That's pefect

Question: I have a gas flap for the filler neck. Does it go between the filler neck and the gas ring or the filler neck and the car body?

So I remembered another box in the shop... Looks like these came out of Australia in 2017... But they have their own issues. Something got spilled on them and it dissolved the lens So I figured what the heck. Some 320 -> 400 -> 800 -> 1500 paper Then the buffer I also have this box of US tail lights. The lamp housings all have the same part number. So I have 3 or 4 of each side. So I can pick the best of the lot to make a complete set. Also, here are some pictures of the felts in the bottom of the housing that John mentioned I would still like to know who have the jig for flattening tail lights flanges. @siteunseen Come on dude, where's the Google Fu?

Ernest, How are your pictures stored? I would be interested in getting a copy of them, if that's doable. I lost all of my original pictures from disassembly and that makes reassembly more challenging! I have cd's we could burn, sd cards or a flash drive. C

I have some 2 part jb weld epoxy that is very clear when cured. It will probably be my product to try. I may give it a shot tomorrow while cooking a brisket .

28d F Sitting In an elevated tree stand in 10 mph winds. Pretty cool for a southern boy!

Or I could repair these and drop them in and buy newer ones later if it bothers me. But I could drive the car sooner using these...

I assume they are using the fuel to cool the diff. Liquid to liquid intercooler. Seems an interesting choice but I'm sure some engineer worked it out

I bought the firewall pad from Zcardepot. I haven't looked at it very close yet, but it looks like it will work ok. I have been working on the mounting cap screws. Some are missing and some are damaged. I bought a bottom tap so I could chase the threads. Then I forced some of the damaged caps out and pulled new SS acorn nuts using a bolt I found in the random bolt drawer So I have an issue with one of the JDM tail lights! I was trying to figure out why there was grunge in the turn signal section of the lens. Well this might do it! So I need to figure out what to do. I thought about just snapping the yellow section of the lens off and re-epoxying it. My concern is I don't want to end up with 5 or 6 pieces. I am not sure I can get the seam clean enough to glue with breaking it off. I thought about trying to cut a seam at the clear lens but don't want to lose the blade thickness. I have a commercial plastic welder but I think that will just make a mess. I would hate to have to scrap these tail lights and start over. I don't think the horizontal joint will be very noticeable because of the chrome trim bar. Ideas??

Somebody made a jig recently to flatten warped tail lights. Does anyone know where that thread is?

Very nice!