Patcon

I am not sure how those profiles you designed would work in real life, but I think I would want a varied radius to have more resolution at lower throttle positions and less near WOT.

I have done these and had similar problems. I know not having the seal fully seated was part of the problem. Look through my build thread and see if you can find the entries. It's been too long for me to recall...

If it's arcing from the coil to ground, that suggests to me the resistance of arcing is lower than the dizzy, plug wires and plugs combined. That shouldn't be so! That is where I would start. Possibly with a meter if I knew what resistance numbers I was looking for

10Amp I have a larger one but haven't used it yet

I copied a quote from another thread. I didn't add the pictures. Your computer is fine 😉

So I have an update. My plating tank was a clear brown color. I decided to try to make a new solution using ZnCl. I mixed up a tank of that and tried to plate something without success. So I decided I would just renew my tank chemicals. I placed an order with Caswell and bought two 1.5 gallon kits. All mixed up it was about 4 gallons. My current requirements in my old solution had gotten pretty high. I assume this is from me having filtered out some of the solution components when I filtered my tank. The new solution is quite cloudy. So noticeably different. IT also plates really well. I added a cap and a half of brightener in my 4g tank and was turning out pretty nice plate at 0.17-0.19 A/squ in. I also added several rinse buckets with a gallon of distilled in each. One after the degreaser One after the pickle One after the plating tank and one after the blue chromate. I also added heaters in both chromate tanks set to about 80d F

Madkaw used: Industrial Plating Inc Lafayette Indiana . This is a pic they sent so I haven’t seen the stuff in person . Here’s a pic of what I sent them from my last plater

Just slightly over 1/8"

It's good you qualified that statement!

There are a couple of challenges with this method. Wintergreen oil is expensive! Buy the commercial version not the essential oil version. Also you have to use a lidded container to prevent tthe alcohol from flashing off. The rubber boots are marginally larger than the petrified version. It's possible they're swollen or maybe they were originally that size and shrunken with age. Difficult to know... But so far so good.

I missed that. I guess it was Obvious to everyone else ...😁

Also, what is the fuel system? Flat tops? Round Top SU's?

So as an update. I tried softening the rubber caps that go to the fuel sender. I tried silicone spray like Mark suggested. Nothing... Now these were rock hard, we were afraid to flex them for fear of breaking them. I wish I had made a video... So I tried Wintergreen oil but instead of water and heating them I used denatured alcohol 1:1. I heated the rubber parts slightly with a heat gun. Let soak overnight. AMAZING!! They were tremendously soft. I mean really good. It has been a week since I pulled them out and they are still nice and soft. I ordered some more oil because I needed more volume. I am going to try it on Cody's Goon's filler neck. Sort of an unobtainium piece...

Another of SteveJ's tricks is to spray compressed air upside down onto the ignition module when it acts up to cool it. If the problem goes away that tends to narrow the problem down to that module. As they age they can act up when they get hot.

I'm not sure what the original finish was on these screws Rivet is basically a 3/32 rivet. The box I have of them is unmarked

I think you're starting with the right idea. Insure it at a high level and it should get well taken care of

I have something on the rivets. I will try to look tomorrow

The oil pressure numbers look good. I wouldn't be worried about those! The burning you see is probably oil from running the engine with the valve cover off. It will burn off. Shouldn't be a problem. Dipsticks are not a super precise measuring instrument. If the oil is on the dipstick it will be fine IMHO.

I would much prefer my dash gauge being wrong and having 38 psi at idle and more revving than what you had before. Now you have a gauge issue but not a mechanical engine issue! I would consider that progress!

Yeah, the red stitching is too much for me...

That's good progress. I'm not surprised you had two dash pieces when I saw that crack... Dogs are the best!

I agree with Zed's thought process. To have lower pressure than idle when revving would be an exceptional loss of pressure. So open oil galley. Bad oil pump. Missing or broken spring in the oil pump(an easy check). Something really strange...

I assume that #5 dropped a zero and is actually 0.0028 not 0.028... Not super consistent gaps but I agree with X that that is probably not where the problem lies

Plastigage?

Love the half shafts!