Patcon

I am not too worried about chipping issues the car will be used carefully. The many Z suspension parts that I have laying around are all 40 or so years old and none of them have any signifigant coorosion. Many of them still have the original black paint that is not nearly as good as the newer catalyzed paints. All of my suspension parts will get epoxy primer then single stage flattened as needed. Just wanted a good starting point for flattening. The car is a total rotisserie restoration. I will deviate in some areas, but many things will be done in a more correct manner. All of the hardware is back from the platers and it is time to start painting and reassembling the supension. Thanks for the idea though... Thanks, Charles

Everything I have read says epoxy first, body work then epoxy again or sealer coat. You could spent some time on the paintuction forum or the eastwood forum if you wanted to get some more opinions. There tend to be a good number of full time painters on those forums... Charles

I have done some searchng and I remember reading some threads where the poster had used gloss black on the supension pieces with flattener added. I can't find those threads but I was wondering how much flattener they used. The gloss black Nason I have is flattened after being catalyzed and reduced. 1:1 reduced paint to flattener is 100% flat. I don't know how flat the suspension is supposed to be and wanted some advise from those who had done it. Thanks, Charles

What type of polish did you use? What kind of wheel speeds with the polish? Did you have any problems burning the plastic while polishing? Charles

Blue, that car looks pretty clean On the CL car is that a big dent in the rear bumper??? Charles

The car is North of Atlanta. I would be interested if I could get it cheap enough. I agree it is really a parts car at this point. The seller wants $2k at least, otherwise he plans to restore it himself. We exchange a couple of emails. I don't think he will get anywhere near that in this market. FWIW Charles

I have looked at the hobbyair. The air coming from a seperate pump would definately be cooler. Did you have the 40' hose? Were you able to set the fresh air pump far enogh away from the booth to not pick up booth exhaust? Was having an extra hose a hassle? I have looked at the SAS system that has a tap off for the spray gun instead. Only one hose to work with is the upside, downside is very dry air into the hood and air that may not be as cool as outside air. Thoughts? Thanks, Charles

Welcome, The first car I ever bought was a 71 240z in high school around 1986. I still have pieces of that car on some of my current Z's. It is sort of a disease of mine, no thats a strong word, how about a syndrome, yeah, its a syndrome. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. If you were closer I could hook you up with wheels, but freight would be high. Welcome in, Charles

Thanks for all the info, I did not realize all these posts were added. Thanks Tony for the links. I had decided before I saw these post to add some 3/4" copper line between my first coalescing dryer and the air compressor. I also ordered a Sharpe DryAire 6760 to hook up on the other side of the shop and let it supply my fresh air and my paint gun. http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Dryaire+Desiccant+System I am planning on getting an SAS fresh air system. I believe I will be good to go from there. Comments are welcome... Thanks, Charles

Thanks for the quick reply Zak Charles

Thanks Arne, I still have aluminum drums, I will look for the access hole in the drum. Thanks, Charles

I rebuilt the rear brakes on one of my early Z's. I wanted to run the adjusters out to limit pedal travel but I don't seem to have the holes on the inside of the backer plate to advance the adjuster with a screwdriver. Has anyone else run into this problem? Is there a good solution or way to ajust the brakes out. I manually activated the e brake maybe 100 times or so, but I only heard one side clicking. Thanks, Charles

Zak, How did your brazing repairs hold up? I just got my car back from the sand blaster and there are some brazed repairs. I don't know whether to remove them or just epoxy prime over them. Charles

I finally got around to going to the Lowes hardawre aisle. They do carry the swaging tool ($20 or so). It looks like a set of large bolt cutters. It is interesting our Home Depot (where I shop more often) carries ferrules and stops does not have the swaging tool. FWIW Charles

Mike, Ya gotta love Texans. I am married to one and the in-laws come into town tomorrow. Good people and very independant... Thanks for the offer I have seen that tool in another thread I believe. I may need to borrow it when I get a little further along. Thanks, Charles

That would be great Peter Charles

Thanks, Arne Were the prices reasonable? Is there a download for the factory microfiche so I can go in with part numbers? Thanks, Charles

I have been doing some shopping around. I want to replace all of the stock bushings in the 240Z that is on the rotisserie. It seems that MSA doesn't have a whole lot in regards to stock bushings, and they probably are not the most competitive on price. Rock auto also doesn't seem to have a whole lot. Black dragon is one option (quality?), are there any better options? It also seems that no one sells a bushing package, only urethane. I am taking this car back mostly stock and don't need the stiffer bushings. Any ideas on where to get the best bushings? I know several board members have had to pull these sets togethor, can you point me in the right direction? Thanks, Charles

I would be interested. Taillight strip, buckles, etc. for early 240z Charles

That would probably work good if I drove old Fords. Then I would be called an enthusiasts:D Charles

It is a crying shame, but I am just too tall. I went and looked at a very nice 1968 roadster in Eden, NC the other day. Took it for a test drive, but the car is just too small for me. My head was above the roll bar and the top would probably be too low for me, and my knees are all folded up. I really like the old roadsters but I really don’t fit comfortably. If any one is interested the car is nice with 2.0L, Mikuni’s, large oil pan, stage II cam, 5 point harnesses, crane ign, good paint, well taken care of. He has owned it since like 77'. I put a link to the ebay ad I found it by. If you have trouble getting in touch with the owner PM me and I will get you in touch. He was very nice and Keith Hege met with me to look at the car also. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_rdcZ1QQitemZ180658299371QQruZhttpQ3aQ2fQ2fshopQ2eebayQ2ecomQ3a80Q2fiQ2ehtmlQ3fQ5ffromQ3dR40Q26Q5ftrksidQ3dp5197Q2em570Q2el1313Q26Q5fnkwQ3d180658299371Q26Q5fsacatQ3dSeeQ2dAllQ2dCategoriesQ26Q5ffviQ3d1 Oh well I guess I will have to make one of my rustier Z's into a roadster Charles

What do you mean when you say frame? 280z's are unibody cars and there is no seperate frame. The suspension,engine, etc is all hung off of the body. Can you be more specific? Charles

Tim, What kind of seats are those on page 7 of your album? Wrapped in plastic, black with side bolsters, are they for your Scarab? Also the rear fender flares, are they a Scarab stock item or something that got added later? They have the best transitions from the qtr to the flare that I have seen yet. Thanks, Charles

Blue, Did you get it fixed yet? Charles

Nigel, Are you currently molding the interior lens? Will you make the exterior lens in another mold and combine the 2 pieces? How would you mold a 240z taillight where the colors all meet in nice straight lines? Do you mold 2 of the 3 pieces and then put the 2 completed pieces in the last mold and let the third part bond to the first 2 while in the pressure pot? Charles