Patcon

I don't believe it is a cam timing issue. Possibly valve train but the car had Weber DGV's on it a couple of months ago and seemed to rev much more freely. I am running ATF for dashpot oil. Possibilities that come to mind were timing, not advancing fast enough. Weak spark, mixture, dash pot oil. I just wasn't sure of the best direction to start or most logical. I would expect the 280ZX dizzy to spool pretty quickly because of the full voltage coil and hotter spark. Just looking for ideas and a point in the right direction. Charles

I am working on a 240z with an engine that has very few miles on an old rebuild. I have new Z therapy carbs and have them fairly well sorted now with Scotts's help. I also have the 280ZX dizzy conversion. The engine will rev but not real snappy like I remember. Ideas? Where to start? I will have to double check my initial timing advance but believe it is in the 12-15 degree range. The centrifugal advance is wroking and the vacuum advance is disconnected. Thanks, Charles

"The door is buckled and the rear has been hit but no frame damage"???? Maybe not... $5200 seems kind of steep for a car that needs metal work and paint, but it is a low number car. No pictures though. I always figure if I see a CL add and there are no pictures the seller is not serious about selling the car. Charles

The piece can probably be made in multiple pieces if they get welded togethor properly. You are likely to find when you remove the plate there is a big hole in the frame rail underneath. That area between the plates is not galvanized or painted from the factory and rust in these areas is a problem. I might have a plate I can hook you up with if you are interested, send me a PM Charles

Sorry for the high jack support but if you are going to prime over bare metal, use epoxy primer after metal prep and degreaser. It is available in black, tan and white by most manufacturers. Bonds to almost anything and is water proof to protect the metal. Most other 2k primers are not truly water proof. FWIW Charles Now back to your regularly scheduled program...

Sil-Glyde is a silicone based brake lubricant. The down side to using it on any weatherstrip areas is the painted surfaces that are nearby or come in to contact with it will have silicone contamination, and repainting those areas later will be very difficult if possible at all. The areas with silicone will fisheye badly. Silicone is one of those products that once on the painted surfaces is very hard to get rid of. Rain X is another product that works great on glass but should be used carefully to avoid contaminating paint. Charles

Sorry double post, the system must have Burped... Charles

Does "standard nickel" refer to the finish? Charles

Why can't the speedo be recalibrated with one of the other color speedo drives? If you know what color you have, you have all the info (displayed speed and actual speed) to calculate which color to use, or am I missing something... Charles

I believe the ones in the door jamb are close to 3/32's. I bought a box to put the plate back after paint. I would think the dash is the same size but don't know. The downside is I had to buy a box maybe 50. If you want me to mail you some pm me. Charles

I am not too worried about chipping issues the car will be used carefully. The many Z suspension parts that I have laying around are all 40 or so years old and none of them have any signifigant coorosion. Many of them still have the original black paint that is not nearly as good as the newer catalyzed paints. All of my suspension parts will get epoxy primer then single stage flattened as needed. Just wanted a good starting point for flattening. The car is a total rotisserie restoration. I will deviate in some areas, but many things will be done in a more correct manner. All of the hardware is back from the platers and it is time to start painting and reassembling the supension. Thanks for the idea though... Thanks, Charles

Everything I have read says epoxy first, body work then epoxy again or sealer coat. You could spent some time on the paintuction forum or the eastwood forum if you wanted to get some more opinions. There tend to be a good number of full time painters on those forums... Charles

I have done some searchng and I remember reading some threads where the poster had used gloss black on the supension pieces with flattener added. I can't find those threads but I was wondering how much flattener they used. The gloss black Nason I have is flattened after being catalyzed and reduced. 1:1 reduced paint to flattener is 100% flat. I don't know how flat the suspension is supposed to be and wanted some advise from those who had done it. Thanks, Charles

What type of polish did you use? What kind of wheel speeds with the polish? Did you have any problems burning the plastic while polishing? Charles

Blue, that car looks pretty clean On the CL car is that a big dent in the rear bumper??? Charles

The car is North of Atlanta. I would be interested if I could get it cheap enough. I agree it is really a parts car at this point. The seller wants $2k at least, otherwise he plans to restore it himself. We exchange a couple of emails. I don't think he will get anywhere near that in this market. FWIW Charles

I have looked at the hobbyair. The air coming from a seperate pump would definately be cooler. Did you have the 40' hose? Were you able to set the fresh air pump far enogh away from the booth to not pick up booth exhaust? Was having an extra hose a hassle? I have looked at the SAS system that has a tap off for the spray gun instead. Only one hose to work with is the upside, downside is very dry air into the hood and air that may not be as cool as outside air. Thoughts? Thanks, Charles

Welcome, The first car I ever bought was a 71 240z in high school around 1986. I still have pieces of that car on some of my current Z's. It is sort of a disease of mine, no thats a strong word, how about a syndrome, yeah, its a syndrome. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. If you were closer I could hook you up with wheels, but freight would be high. Welcome in, Charles

Thanks for all the info, I did not realize all these posts were added. Thanks Tony for the links. I had decided before I saw these post to add some 3/4" copper line between my first coalescing dryer and the air compressor. I also ordered a Sharpe DryAire 6760 to hook up on the other side of the shop and let it supply my fresh air and my paint gun. http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Dryaire+Desiccant+System I am planning on getting an SAS fresh air system. I believe I will be good to go from there. Comments are welcome... Thanks, Charles

Thanks for the quick reply Zak Charles

Thanks Arne, I still have aluminum drums, I will look for the access hole in the drum. Thanks, Charles

I rebuilt the rear brakes on one of my early Z's. I wanted to run the adjusters out to limit pedal travel but I don't seem to have the holes on the inside of the backer plate to advance the adjuster with a screwdriver. Has anyone else run into this problem? Is there a good solution or way to ajust the brakes out. I manually activated the e brake maybe 100 times or so, but I only heard one side clicking. Thanks, Charles

Zak, How did your brazing repairs hold up? I just got my car back from the sand blaster and there are some brazed repairs. I don't know whether to remove them or just epoxy prime over them. Charles

I finally got around to going to the Lowes hardawre aisle. They do carry the swaging tool ($20 or so). It looks like a set of large bolt cutters. It is interesting our Home Depot (where I shop more often) carries ferrules and stops does not have the swaging tool. FWIW Charles

Mike, Ya gotta love Texans. I am married to one and the in-laws come into town tomorrow. Good people and very independant... Thanks for the offer I have seen that tool in another thread I believe. I may need to borrow it when I get a little further along. Thanks, Charles