Patcon

There are some interesting parts there. I was curious about a serpentine belt set up. There are water pump and damper pullies there, but I wonder about the rest of the pieces to complete the conversion...

Well if you could come up with a later model that would work and not have terrible aesthetics that might improve the biggest weakness of the Z master cylinder in my opinion, and that is leaking into the booster!

It looks like you have to cut a hole just above the frame rail to allow the gas strut to mount to the outside of the frame rail...

I use those on several of the classics I have sitting around. I still really believe, the bigger risk for theft is a roll back not a drive off, so battery or not it's gone. That is why I like the tracking solutions

If I had to guess I would say the switch on the passenger side is for an alarm system or ignition kill, judging by the twisted pair wiring that appears to go to it. The knob near it is a fresh air vent control. The knobs below the steering column surround are not stock. You just need to trace them down manually. If I had to guess I would say they are a PO's attempt at choke control...

After seeing all your other lathe work I am sure you will come up with something that works really good. Maybe something with a threaded socket that takes threaded pipe for leverage. NPT pipe is readily available at Depot and Lowes in various lengths... If necessary!

That looks like a pretty good system

That's a good idea on using the internals from the reman. I found booster diaphragms online from several vendors but I would have to buy a minimum of 1000 and that would take a while to sell off to other Z owners! None of the booster rebuilders want to sell the internals to a DIY'er

what exactly was the problem on the starter?

Or you could get some speed bleeders...

I don't know the history of your car, but are you sure the seat covers are OE?

If the ring eyes on the solenoid and the starter are oriented towards each other it is possible they could arc when cranking...IIRC

This site is excellent! It has some great members and an amazing amount of knowledge. Sometimes members occasionally "lock horns" but for the most part the banter is friendly and fun...

Lathe and a milling machine!

JB Weld is an epoxy. It works for many things. It would not be my first choice for this repair because it is an easy thing to pull it and have it re-soldered. If your new car with high strength steels gets damaged in an accident the panel repairs will most likely be completed with 2 part epoxy. So it is not unrealistic to use an epoxy for some repairs, even structural panel replacement! I can think of a number of places where I would use it on a Z and have. This just isn't where I would feel it's necessary...but I happen to have a great radiator shop not too far away

I thought 220 Psi sounded high for regular rubber lines...

Looks great!!

" Even compared to the electronic fuel injection systems of today, the MFI system has a very high injection pressure. Fuel is squirted out of the injectors at a remarkably high 220-250 PSI. This high pressure aids in the atomization of the fuel, which in turn increases the surface area of the mixture. This results in a more efficient and complete burn of the fuel." Found that on Pelican Parts, very reputable Porsche Parts house http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/101_Projects_Porsche_911/30-Mfi_Info/30-Mfi_Info.htm If it can handle those kinds of pressures it will be fine for a Z. Are they the right ID size?

It's a California car which is good but no carbs, automatic and a little rough inside. $2,500 may be a little optimistic. I have a hard time pinning down values these days the way prices are moving lately...

There is no danger from the speaker wires. More current on the lighting circuits...

Mine was badly corroded around the edges. I bead blasted it first to try to remove the corrosion then I shot some PB blaster on it for a few days before trying to open it.

Good pictures Blue CO the compression seems to help because the diaphragm is sandwiched between the shells. It has to be compressed some to reduce the friction on the interference fit of the halves. There is no real lock, sort of an overgrown fuel tank sender ring.

I believe Glyptal is a high end coating that was originally used in electrical transformers. Racers like to use it in their blocks to seal the casting so no loose grit can shed into the oil and it enhances oil drain back to the sump. At least that is the way I remember it. I researched it once for a motor rebuild but never used it...

You've got that cool lathe!! I am sure you can come up with sufficient leverage I believe Zed is right, I didn't try the press until I had to come up with a solution to not being able to reassemble it...

That's great he will come to you. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.