Patcon

The first car is gonna need frame work up front to go along with the rust repairs The second one is gonna have rust too but he wants a lot more, but I see cars like this or worse bring this kind of money on ebay all the time. I believe the days of the cheap 240z are gone... As a side note GA is a bill of sale state for cars of this vintage and they can be hard to title in other states. You should check with your DMV before you buy a car with a bill of sale only. SC use to not bat an eye at this but I believe we are starting to tighten up on this due to fraud issues

Yes, I am really surprised they are available. I wonder how limited their supply is. It might be time to finish some dies...

Ok, So now I'm confused. Are there two sets of clips? Two on the "hoover" vent section (90829-E4100) and two on the hatch opening (08961-43210)? That's what Kats diagrams appear to show because they have different call numbers. If so what retains each? Do the Grill Assembly (90950-E4100) pins connect both clips to the hatch?

Yes, but hasn't been that way for a couple of years now. That car has a lot of rust to be a Texas car. You know there is a lot more you can't see...

A complete harness is probably worth a lot more on Ebay than what scrap is bringing these days...

That's interesting I tried to order some from just about every vendor six months to a year ago and all replied NLA. I ended up sourcing some out of Japan...

Rich, I believe Mike @ Banzai is the only source for wiper bags unless someone else started providing them too

Good to know, thanks

So I assume you have spoken to MSA on this? I assume these are newly sourced not NOS parts?

I suspect Tabco didn't leave more metal in that area because it had a tendency to wad and wrinkle up. The original panels seem thinner than the tabco patch panels so it would have been easier to deal with the excess metal in the folds

What did you do to fix the shield gas flow issue?

@hr369 ?

Found it http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22d06/10-2261 I wonder if they are repopping them? They were unobtainium for a while.. Can somebody bump one of the Z store guys?

Do you have a link to the stock mustache bar bushings at MSA or what page you saw it on? I am unable to find it...

Glad you got the crank fixed. Good job!

ZH That was part of my point earlier. How long will 500 CCA's run what ever you exceed your 60 amp alternator for? A good while I would think if it's healthy... Also CO made my point also about being out in the rain. Most of these cars when reworked to this level tend to avoid rain for the most part...

@TheGoat I agree I would wait on the engine upgrades for a little while. Get it going then decide how much more power the car needs. I have ridden in an LS powered car and it is brutal fast as in jail time fast, but the car felt like it was going to disintegrate. The chassis is not designed for that king of torque and as I get older I just want a quick car. I am not trying to set land speed records any more...also an L28et would be almost a plug and play upgrade for a 280z. An intercooler and a boost controller it will make decent power for a fairly light car. As an aside there is a 510 section on this forum too. Feel free to post up some pictures of your dime there, maybe a thread on the 5 speed swap. I need to do that on my son's goon sometime before long, would love a good how to... Welcome aboard

Will the larger alternator have more HP loss than the smaller alternator? I would think the armature(?) in the higher amp alternator would be heavier and slower to spool up plus when the amps get higher I would thing the HP loss would be correspondingly higher. I look at alternator amps sort of like I look at house electrical amps. You have a 200 amp house panel with 40 - 20 amp breakers in it; that's way more than the 200 amp service can realistically feed but how often do you have every branch circuit loaded to maximum? Ummmm, never... In your Z how often will you have all the lights on, wipers on, heater fan on high, stereo kicking wide open, etc., almost never. Even if you did, the battery would supply excess power for a limited time then the alternator could replenish it when you cut some stuff back down. I can see a limited upgrade as potentially being good or going to an easier to source component but in the long run LED's would make a lot of this less necessary. Heater fan upgrade and fixing the wiper linkage would probably greatly reduce drawn amperage as well...

The paint work looks great! Cutting and buffing really makes it pop. Lot's of work but the results are outstanding... You're almost over the hump...all downhill after paint

FYI Glyptol's site says bake or air dry for all but their catalyzed paint...

What are you doing to do with the rear main cap?

Ok so I have the none charge issue again, so If I wanted to go to internally regulated would a regulator delete plug from @Zs-ondabrain work?

Understand...

That's a pretty low number Grannyknot

By the way Jai, if you do any of the testing with the any of the coil wires or ignition be very careful. A leather or rubber glove is recommended they carry a lot of voltage and can be hazardous