Patcon

I am unfamiliar with that particular tensioner. I was just curious if the loss of deck height has to get dealt with the same way a shaved head would. If so, you could end up with a lot of shims under the towers and that seems like it would make valve train geometry difficult

I used the value out of Haynes. It was somewhere in that range, about 40 pounds. I don't think that is the problem. I think your bolts are 5mm too long

How does decking the block affect the timing chain length? Do you have to shim the towers to account for the deck height? Even if the head doesn't get shaved? How does that affect the valvetrain geometry?

Those look like the same rotors I just installed. I am fairly confidant these are the original bolts and washers that I replated. They are slightly recessed when torqued. I had to go double check after you posted this

Be sure and post up lots of pics and info! That way I can crib off of you on Cody's upcoming build. ? His motor only has so many miles left in it...

So I contacted Fedhill about a thread size question and he supplied me with a name of a company that makes custom lines Crown Peformance 760 599 0090 I got two custom lines made for the rear maxima calipers for like $60 I told them the length I wanted and the ends. Had them in like 3 or 4 days. Great service! I got a 45 degree banjo fitting on the caliper end to make them fit a little better. I also got the banjo bolts and washers from them for a very reasonable price

What about plugging the vacuum booster line or some of these other lines to try to isolate the issue?

My car is not on the ground but I suspect the ride will be the same or maybe slightly less jarring. I used no poly bushings on my build

I rode near by you last Saturday. I was getting kids back to college. If I had thought about it sooner I would have seen if you were around...

They shouldn't be hard to get. I bought 4 of them directly from Nissan 6 months or so ago

Nope. Glad it happened in the garage versus in the twisties!

@ABQ240

It always amazes me to see rust like this, even on a clean Z!!! What does he do to prevent rust between the body and the tail light panel?

Was his shop at his home I assume? I wonder if he has any more parts I need?

Huge props to @DamonR He helped me purchase the bumper and dropped it off at the UPS store. It should be here Friday, just in time for Cody's birthday. Thanks also to @Mark Marasfor the connection

I like your idea of going stock for the inspection, then carrying on. I would seriously discourage you from any VIN deviations!

Yes! His metal work is outstanding. I would have to cut that and reweld or something else equally drastic to close those gaps up.

I hate drilling spot welds but that is really the better way to do it IMO.

That's an excellent point. I read four or five of those articles at Stoptech Wilwood 570 looks promising

I will fab up a spacer. Looking forward to Atlanta. Lots of new faces to go with usernames.

I would prefer not to do this. Is this always the case?

I basically did the same thing. I drove the hub into the spindle with a hammer. Then I supported the spindle and drove the bearing down evenly all the way around. It's what I found worked for me. Nothing ventured, nothing gained...You could even support the inner bearing with a large socket and then drive the hub in. I probably used a 2 pound hammer. You are really just looking for a couple of thousands

I don't even have a theory on the numbers. Not a part number, not a test number. Code for a date, but the third picture isn't four digits??? PS:Sorry for the thread jack

This is where I used the BFH. Made is right as rain.

Thanks Mike, The biggest thing I saw for silicone fluid was the lack of pedal feel. As for tracking your car, from what I understand you have done plenty of high brake heat driving. I do really like the idea of no paint damage. I also like that the silicone fluid isn't hygroscopic, so there is less chance for corrosion when the system sits. Let the debate begin...