Patcon

You can unplug any you want. Unplug them at the fenders and corners. Leave the column alone. Once they are unplugged and the lights will stay on then you know the issue is down stream. Add them back and see where the problem lies. Easy, peasy

this sounds interesting Edit: Have to keep it garaged? How do they verify the garaging?

Unplug all the running lights. Replace the fuse. With the lights on, see if the fuse will hold. If so it in one or more of the disconnected lights. Then plug in lights one at a time, waiting between each one. When you get to one that blows the fuse, repair / replace it and do the next one

44G's in a lap belt, hhhmmm? or better yet the steering wheel! "That's gonna leave a mark!"

Good progress

But man, he got his money's worth!!!

Not only is it a tough place to hammer back but the metal is incredibly thin at these corners because of the stamping process

The path of least resistance, no pun intended, is to get a pair of new marker lights. If you clean out the rust, it wont stay that way long with all the rain you get in Panama. The new ones will have intake zinc coatings on them to help them last.

That's too bad. Buyer beware...

Never, ever do this. Unless you want to burn you car to the ground!!! Find and fix the problem. I could be in the harness, relays. You just have to be systematic

Pioneer metal finishing has potential. They look like a small operation. No website DF Enterprise might too. No website Tomken looks too big Elkem is out New Brunswick Plating maybe, you would have to call Deptford plating has potential My 2 cents, I don't care what the building looks like or if no one has teeth. All I care about is what the plating looks like and what does it cost!

Woof!! That needs work. I would do it for #59 but still!

And that is a tragic turn of events!!!

@jharmon Where in Jersey are you?

Possibly, but maybe not. My first suspect would be fueling, so starting with the carbs is where I would start. Next would be ignition

Similar, I suspect the red one is the same model but older

There was a post a while back about this shop. Pretty cars, but quite pricey!!

Married for 70 years to the same woman!!!

I suspect that pretty much all of these parts are made by one vendor and retailed through multiple sources. The market demand isn't that large IE: all of the rear valances are stamped on the same line, all of the hoods are made on the same line, etc.

I love Meguiars products but I find the assortment of options confusing and their website doesn't help to determine which product is best for what or why. I found what I used Smart by Puris 2 stage product. It was really easy to do. I found the wet sanding to be the more difficult part. http://www.finishmaster.com/products/smart-by-puris-a1-pure-compound-1-gallon When you buff, buff away from edges, never into them. If there is a body detail that might burn or cut, you can run a tape line down it when you use the cut compound and only use buff compound on it. Don't overheat your buffer pad or add a lot of down pressure on the buffer. The machine should be heavy enough to do the work. It slings everywhere so tape up rubber and windows if necessary.

Good score on the parts! What ever you lay on bare metal, will not be your final primer (etch primer or epoxy primer). There should be a filler primer laid down after sealing then blocked out. If you paint in sections, your high build aught to take care of any overlapping epoxy paint. Epoxy is not know for it great sanding qualities. It's hard! and hard to sand, that is the way it is supposed to be.

I believe Diseazd missed the "x'd" out last number of the vin. Yes I would expect they are both 73's @Zup Do you have the ability to make some pictures of that museum car of yours?

Finally, the actual translator

Sounds like a good father in law.