Patcon

If the lines from the switch to the caliper are good on both sides, then move upstream. I would suspect the switch next

I looked at that car Shipping would be problematic because of all the parts and the additional vin isn't great, bit if your not too far away it could be good. Although the last few wrecked Zs I've watched or bid on have gone for ridiculous money

So the restriction could be anywhere from the switch to the caliper. You might want to disconnect lines until you find the restriction. You could use air like Zed suggested, just dont blow brake fluid all over your paint. Get spills up quickly

I think for starters, I would pump the brakes a little slower. That allows the fluid to flow without as much vacuum on the system. I might also drop back to the tried and true bleeding method if possible and remove the variables of the speed bleeders

I assume these are 280zx parts then?

@One Way John, Would any of these three work for you. Freshly plated but they had some corrosion before they were plated

Good for you! Congrats also 🙂

Does the ZX still have a traditional water valve? If so I would guess the pressure reducer was installed to reduce the tendency for leaks in the passenger floor board from the heater valve

If the pedal goes to the floor and the warning light comes on, then only one circuit is building pressure, regardless of the booster. So that should leave only a couple of options. Air in the front circuit: master, lines or calipers Or A bad master cylinder New parts doesn't mean they're good parts...

I'm not sure the discrepancy isn't from how you measure the booster. If you measure the main chamber its 6" When you measure out to the outside band, its closer to 7". I would still contact a rebuilder. Doesn't matter what size it is. As long as they have parts for it

Where did you clip that?

@Zup Good to see you around! I was just wondering how you were doing.

Shifter is still in the car, so the drive train is still in it. They've removed alot of the rocker and the floors were obviously weak. Thats how the gaps got distorted

Or run a bolt on it and put it in the vise and straighten it. Clamp the bolt, bend a little at a time

My memory is failing but I thought the smallest one was 7". Maybe call Harmon classic or PBE and they can walk you through measuring and identifying yours and whether they have parts for it

I think unzipping the doors would be harder. If I had to guess they did the repair on jacks stands without removing the drivetrain. Thereby distorting the chassis

It looks like they replaced the dog legs and didn't check the door fit while they did it

Head light relay?

Some possibilities https://devilbissclub.com/spray-guns/devilbiss-gti-pro-lite-without-cup-regulator/ https://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/products/prolite/prolite-gravity.aspx https://www.amazon.com/Tekna-703567-1-2mm-1-3mm-ProLite/dp/B006JYNEEK/ref=asc_df_B006JYNEEK?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80882941400083&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584482468471655&psc=1

Yes, basically 😉 The gun I'm using has been used for all sorts of stuff. Its older and can be difficult to clean. I thought I might get some better atomization and less overspray with a better gun. Since overspray is really just money floating down wind. I spent about $800 on paint last week. That was some basecoat, clear, some catalyst for a primer and a quart of epoxy primer. I'm using Nason paints, so a budget line of paints. Not top shelf. I already had sealer and high build primer. Things are drastically more expensive this year!

John, Let me look around

As a point of reference, I have an older Devilbiss set that has multiple tips. I probably paid in the $180s for it. I think its probably low $200s now. I suspect there is a noticeable step up to a good gun if you've sprayed enough. Starts to be justified when paint is getting this expensive. I would use it strictly for basecoat / clearcoat. Use my older gun for primer

Having bought some more paint recently at eye watering prices, I am considering getting a pro level gun. Tried to do some googling but kept finding the same useless info. Does anyone have any recommendations? Sata, Iwata, DeVilbiss, Tekna, etc...

I believe on a 280z they have a different shape. Thats why I wanted the picture...

Got my crew working this morning, then sort of took a half day off I shot some epoxy over the bare metal areas and then stacked some high build until the gun started acting up