Patcon

That car has a V07 crank, think 3.0 liter L6. Buy the car for $300. Pull the engine save what you want. Crush the rest. Instant free crankshaft...

Any one near Houston with a dealer buddy could probably pick this car up for almost nothing. Runs at auction tomorrow https://www.iaai.com/Vehicles/VehicleDetails.aspx?itemID=20436012&RowNumber=0 The link may or may not work. It is a dealer only auction site

I am shooting bright yellow and just don't think it looks right. If it were a dark color, I would probably shoot some stone guard over epoxy primer then color the whole car...

It is my understanding from other threads that the wheel wells were body color but I don't care for seeing color around the wheels. So I primed mine then blacked them out...

Well my first thought was corrosion in the bores from sitting with moisture in the system, but you won't be able to tell without disassembly...

When you say inspected, does that mean you looked at them or took them off and disassembled them and inspected the piston bores?

I believe he has it fixed. Low battery...

good to know you're still around Jerry

I sort of have the same mentality. I have one of those but prefer a .45 and I have 2 Great Danes right inside the front door...

PMG, I appreciate you looking out for me...

Locks really on keep honest people honest. Door locks really don't make residential doors secure. Commercial is different...

Lumens, I remember, I still don't believe that ignition has been ruled out. I would just like to see the same test results more than once to be sure. If she tried to start it or turned the key off and on the results are suspect...

I wouldn't go pertronix personally. I would go 280z electronic distributor or 123ignition is you really want to go all the way. Definitely fuel filter after the tank

Once you turn the key again I believe that is going to run the pump which would mess up the measurement. If it dies, coast out of the road or into the median, check it then try to restart it.

Body work isn't really that hard if you are decent working with your hands. You need to be able to feel imperfections and not be opposed to lots of blocking and dirty work. I enjoy doing it when I have the time...I think painting well is much harder than filling and leveling, because you can always add a little more filler or sand a little longer. Painting is more like golf, it's hard to paint well when you only do it twice a year. Once you mess up paint it's much harder to fix...

Jai, When the car cuts off or won't start you need to be checking the pressure gauge under the hood. If your area is as safe as it looks, you can just leave the hood popped so its easy to open and look. The car will run fine on the road with the hood popped.

I agree with Mike. The other thing 2 things I suspect are a bound up spindle pin or one of the new strut cartridges is wrong or damaged. Sometimes even brand new parts are bad or miss labeled. Cbuckzesk's comment #87 on the spacer in the bottom of the strut tube is another possibility. If you pull the struts down and the springs off, remove the gland nuts, pull the strut cartridges out. Measure everything including how deep the hole is in the strut tube. Check part numbers on all the struts. I don't believe this is a chassis issue...if the rear strut cartridges are correct, match and everything looks ok, install them on opposite sides. See if the problem moves. If it does that will narrow it down.

Thanks 240dkw, the respirator is a good idea. I hadn't thought about the lead issue. If the sheet metal is that thick it might be easier to weld a tab to the outside and pull the dents out, but separating the halves gives great access for inspection, cleaning and repair.

If the low gas problem persists that would make it easier to diagnose. There are only a few possibilities, but I will wait to bring them up. If you confirm the diagnosis we will cross that bridge then.

If I were gonna try it I would get the tank cleaned real well and take a cutoff wheel around just inside the resistance weld seam. That should give you a good way to weld it back together.

240dkw When you cut your tank, it looks like you cut up high enough to cut into the air of the tank with a blade? Is there enough room on the flat to take a die grinder and grind through the shell following a line just inside the resistance weld? That way when you reassemble the tank you can basically weld it backed up by the other half of the shell. Butt welding all around the tank seems like the harder option. My concern for me would be making 8' or so of weld with no pin holes or blowing bigger holes

Yes but it sounds like an easy fix. It can be frustrating especially when people get careless...

He's close, it's right next door like 3500Km or so...

In this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3D7PuyXXp0 What is the machine at 3:31 and how does it work? Is it welding with the 2 wheels, friction welding or crimping or what, looks like there is power to the heads and some kind of vent drawing off smoke...

Can you catch them with your finger nail? If they don't feel real deep they can probably be buffed out. The paint looks like single stage but hard to know from a picture. You could experiment with some paste wax and see if you can polish out a little section of a scratch. If you can make it look right by hand a body shop will have no problem making them right. As for costs I don't know, a phone call would be in order.