Patcon

How good does the hatch need to be Blue? C

That's great. Since these cars are so light adding just a little power goes a long way. Gearing helps too. Charles

There are several lower dollar upgrades. Some very good stickies over at Hybrid Z in the brakes section that are very comprehensive. Then there are some higher dollar upgrades like Wilwoods. The stock drums are evidently very good but I plan to switch to rear disc. The only problems I really ever had with my Z's back when I had one that actually ran was brake fade in the mountains when they got hot. I plan to upgrade to drilled disc with Toyota calipers with 15/16ths master cylinder to start with and may go with vented Toyota calipers if needed. Charles

Steve, Watched your video, it sounded like you chirped 3rd gear. Looked like a lot of fun. Do you know what you are putting down at the wheels? Charles

So the line you high lighted in blue must be the hump in the floor board which comes back near the rear seat supports. That would also explain the little angle at the rear of the frame rail coming up to the dashed line you high lighted because it comes up into the hump at the rear. Agree? C

I think I would upgrade brakes in there somewhere before pretty parts. It is good to be able to go; it's better to be able to stop! C

Ended zero bids. Car looks really complete... No bondo, some Evercoat "Rage" but no "Bondo". Passenger fender looked rusted on the inside lip above the fuel filter... C

Ewwww. That's a good place for a "stick up"... Charles

Spring compressors are cheap compared to medical bills and I obviously don't heal like a young man might... Charles

How do you know which line is the floor line? I guess I can measure from the tranny support and compare that to the 86 mm to determine what the reference is...? C

That was great Blue. thanks for that. That makes perfect sense about the pinch welds. I assume that document is now part of the database now, so I can always find it since I'm in it . I love the burn marks from splatter on his notes. Charles PS The car went to our frame man today and he said it was an 1" out so I was glad I took it...

Complete views of the car with part numbers... Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Parts Manual I look up parts here to check prices but I am not sure that everything that they have a price for is available... Nissan Parts - BuyNissanParts.com Charles

It looks like the part number should be 44095-M4910 @ buynissanparts.com look like they are about $4 each... C

The FSManual has the diagram that shows all the frame dimensions on it. It is all in metric and at the bottom there is a baseline near the rocker panel that everything is measured from. The question is where is the line on the car at the bottom of the rocker or at the bottom of the body flange below the rocker? I am going to the frame shop in the morning and need to check all the frame dimensions. Thanks, Charles

That was a very nice gift! C

Is there a difference for 73? I have a good used center valence that still has the Nissan sticker in it. I have it on an early Z that is too far gone... Charles

Your best bet would be to find a body shop or a body man that does work on the side. Go to a local paint store PPG / Finish masters etc. Tell them what you need and ask them to recommend somebody. One of the guys at my Finish masters does work on the side. I would do a small section cut and just replace that area that got hit and pulled out. The patch metal could be taken from almost any quarter panel even a rusty one because they tend to rust lower or around the wheel arch so that area is normally good... Charles

That is a stock fuel pump, and if you buy one from a parts store it may not even look like that. Some of the newer cheaper pumps don't have that type cover. whether that is the original pump or not who knows, but I doubt it. C

Captain Obvious may be right on this. He nailed an earlier diagnosis. Banjo bolts are at the intake to the SU float bowls. The intake tube has a bolt that goes thru it, fuel goes thru the intake port, then thru a small screen around the bolt, then thru the bolt and into the float bowls. Google "SU Banjo bolt"... C

I am not a fan of the turbo 4 either but I don't mind the lines on the design car. Right now many of the high performance cars are going thru a very "edgey" type of design phase... C

I assume you are using a MIG? For MIG welding I think you did all right. If you used a flapper wheel those would dress down nicely... Charles

What are you guys objections to the car design in the link? What don't you like? Charles

I wouldn't give half that. It looks like they stripped all the paint so it could rust, which is stupid considering these cars already have enough issues with rust. No shifter boot, all the heater controls are gone and have toggle switches there. I figure the drivetrain is worth $500-$700 and the shell is worth $500 so $1500 for an actual cash value. The car would need a paint job and has some obvious sheet metal damage in places. Rust repairs? It is in Miami... Finish the interior. It would take some money to polish this into something presentable. My opinion of course... Go to searchtempest.com and search for 240z or 280z off your zipcode and see what you can buy for $3,000. You can buy a lot more car than that, complete with paint Charles

Check the screens in the banjo bolts, replace the fuel filter and do a flow test. The rear screen may be clogged and with the front line blanked off enough pressure can be built up to feed the rear carb. Cutting on a gas tank and welding for that matter is a very bad idea. The tank has to be absolutely clean and your welding has to be very good to not have pinhole leaks. I weld a lot for a hobbyist and I wouldn't try it. There are kits that can be used for cleaning the tank and resealing. Clean with acid, neutralize and coat with tank sealant. A much easier and safer idea... Charles

Did you try to contact Rocky Auto to see what kit they used on the Black Z? C