Patcon

Found this is on craigslist http://nwga.craigslist.org/cto/5362276653.html Do you still have the mikunis? What do you want for them? Are they on a manifold? Thanks ,Charles yes I do make me a reasonable offer and yes they are on a manifold with linkage The question would be what do you think is a reasonable offer? C $1000.00 or best offer

I don't know maybe some guys can post pics of the 240z versus the 280z lower section of the radiator support...

I am gonna add this here because it is your build thread and maybe someone else can chime in. Core support part numbers: 240z 62500-N3400 260z to Aug 74' 62500-N3615 62500-N4310 9/74'-11/74' from 12/74' 62500-N4200 all 280z 62500-N4200 There are evidently 4 different core supports on the 2 seater cars. I know the 240z supports do not have the vertical piece of metal across the top that holds the weather strip to seal to the hood. I believe that is to aide cooling. Also I believe the later cores may be taller because when I install a later radiator in my car possibly 280zx? they hang below the core support. The holes are also different in the later core supports and some of them are different sizes to allow the larger intake hoses to pass through. Some pictures might help if some people can post up different years. My 240z was repaired with a later core support so the width seems to be the same...

If you take the screws out of the knobs pay close attention. The screws are small and easily lost

You picked a hard part to drill. That is spring steel, wouldn't have been my first choice, most people mount to the sub-frame. The install looks good though

Ditto on Greyhound. I have had whole bumper assemblies shipped all over the place for reasonable money. I will add this, if you were to remove the firewall from your rusty car or most of it and graft it into the new chassis as well as some other parts. Did you really move vin's or did you rebuild the shell with a lot of other parts. I may also have a roof skin too. Would have to look...

I suspect that it is the head that grows more than the manifold. If I remember right aluminum grows more with heat than steel. So it may be the head that really moves not the exhaust...

Yeah that's a little on the thick side...

Can the water valve be seen if you put a mirror in the footwell? If so she Jai could use a mirror so see if it's hooked up and does it move...

Wheee! The 280z radiator support is different from the 240z radiator support Mark, It is a very gray area when you start looking at transferring vin's. Be careful, not saying you can't do it but most DMV's frown heavily on it. That being said if it's done well I don't know how they would know. the firewall VIN would be the hardest part. Never done it but have considered it. I don't want to defraud anyone but sometimes it is easier to save a car by starting with a better shell.

I think what they did on the rocker was fill it so it lined up well with the fender. I do all my panels this way. I may rough a door out on a stand but for final work I mount them on the car, adjust them, then block them as one large panel, across the body gaps. Then I fill and block as necessary. This makes the car as straight a possible. I do however prefer to have less build...

Martzedcars If the stud is broken off flush with the head, how do you plan on welding to it? Lay the nut on the head and weld down through the center to the stud?

Mark Let us know how the discing goes. It looks really easy but that can be deceiving...

Ahh the voices...I've heard those before...

The hood looks good, nice and thin

Yes the 2 part guns are very expensive. I have looked for one for a while for Evercoat products. They have some 10:1 products that use a proprietary gun design. Haven't found one yet and can't justify $150 gun...

Looks good. Make sure the bottom side of those seams are sealed up good, they are the bigger issue

Yes the switch is connected to the bullet connector under the red plastic loom. I assume that is creating a ground path when tripped as it is only one wire. So to create a brake light you would feed power to one side of the lamp and connect the ground side to the bullet connector, when tripped it will light up, if I am correct...

I cleaned up everything, metal patches, epoxy primer, lizard skin insulator, lizard skin sound deadener, paint, might add dynomat or fatmat on top, then jute and carpet

Yes you can shrink dents in your body work using heat and then a damp rag or a spray bottle. I watched a you tube video recently where a guy used a shrinking disk to fix a dent in a piece of metal. He beat the snot out of it with a hammer, then he used the shrinking disk on a grinder which heats the metal. Then used water out of a spray bottle to cool it. In about 5 minutes the dent was gone, invisible. It was really cool! My frame man fixes stretched metal for us using a torch and damp rag. I know it can be done but haven't tried my hand at it yet. I would probably use a shrinking disk since I don't have access to a torch and the disc is relatively cheap. If you over shrink it, you can always stretch it a little with a hammer.

If you are going to use thick spacers, be sure your wheel studs are long enough and I wouldn't recommend being too aggressive with the car Glad you found the issue

Phosphoric acid creates iron phosphate. Pretty tough stuff. Scuff it up with some 180 or so and shoot over it. I would follow the fine print on the product you choose but from what I've seen there haven't been any issues. The more rust you remove the better but you really can't get it all that is why the panel changes color slightly when you treat it. I have concerns about treating some of the critical parts from nitrogen embrittlement but I don't plan to race the car and those can be mitigated if you are overly concerned. Don't use it on springs and spring steel!!!!

Ditto, Hate waiting. I use compressed air to help cool things down but I still hate the waiting

Dennis You need a couple of Great Danes to appreciate the full size piles...

That is what the skim coat of fiberglass is for...knock it down, prime it. Perfect...