jfa.series1

When I insured my car with Hagerty last year, they said they would underwrite up to $25k valuation based on photos. Any valuation over $25k would require a formal appraisal. There was no discussion of upper limits of coverage.

I still can't find where she is hiding the cheese!

A bit more difficult to find but another size option is a 185/75-14. It is virtually the same diameter as the original tire.

The folks at Z Therapy probably have it (or dozens of them!). Check with Bruce Palmer.

Here you go. http://www.retrosoundusa.com/products/details/id/63

Chase, Innovative work. Keep the updates and procedure details coming, looking forward to seeing some results in person at the next club meeting. Jim.

Steve, I see you are driving a 280Z. No such beastie on my 240, must be a design change/improvement for your later model car, possibly due to bumper revisions. Jim

Steve, Are you referring to the openings in the radiator support where the wiring harness comes out into the grill area? If so, I don't think there is a "grommet" for those edges. I took some small i.d. vacuum hose, split it lengthwise, glued it to the edges to form a protective grommet. Pics available if this is your subject area. Jim

Pretty little car and some very serious work done on it.

Big cohones!!! What a POS.

Which Z Barn? I recall seeing on another site that one in the NE(?) was shutting down. It looks like the one in TN is still in business. http://www.zbarn.com/index.html

Based on my recent experience, the trim installs from front to back and rolls on to the body from top to bottom. Removal is the reverse - start at the back and work it loose with a gentle roll/twist upwards and out a bit as you move forward. Patience is a virtue!!! A small piece of wood like a 1/4" dowel can be slid or gently tapped along under the trim to help lift it. Did I say patience is a virtue?

That little gem attracted 51 bids and sold for $14,600. Pretty durn good money, great news for ongoing (growing?) interest in the Datsun brand old vehicles.

Member Thorsten Link lives in Germany, has imported a Z and got it thru the regulatory process. Here is his profile link, you might contact him for info and assistance. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/member22294.html

Fix your suspension first with replacement struts, springs and shocks - or possibly coil overs if so inclined. Then, put your current wheels and tires back on and see if you like the look. You did not mention any offset on your current wheels, that might be something to checkout. Your current tire is 23.5" dia., a stock tire would be 25" so your current tires would have you 3/4" lower if all other components are back to stock.

There is no forgiveness, only punishment... long and enduring punishment!

Good tips for winter projects, thanks.

Old posts can indeed be enlightening. I recently checked my wipers and found them to be no-op. No movement, no apparent power. The big Q: is it the combo switch; the motor, the fuse, something else??? I did a quick search today and found this thread from 2006 with good basic guidance: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread24329.html When I finished the resto last year, everything worked fine (as fine as an OE wiper motor can be concerned). I have a new MSA fuse box and all original wiring in excellent condition. The combo switch is original and not rebuilt. Following the thread, I checked the fuse and found it to be OK. Next step was the 2X3 connector on the firewall. Bingo! The male spades were slipping back because I had previously dis-assembled the connector to get a new firewall grommet installed. Pushing each spade firmly back in place fixed the problem. Yeah, I know - time to do the motor upgrade and get some real speed on those wipers. Not a real big concern for my little garage queen since she does not like to play in the rain. Thanks to those who have gone down this path before me. Jim

When you get to the point of installing lights, don't use the factory harness ground - again, a load issue. If your lights are not self-grounding at the mount points, run a ground wire from the light directly to the body.

The blue is the clue! The folks making the early Z wiring harnesses used blue tape to secure and mark unused connectors, such as the electric fuel pump and fog lights. Here are pics of the fog light connectors secured in the dash near the temp / oil pressure gauge. All you need to do is connect a switch between these two connectors to activate the wires in the grill area. I installed a toggle switch in the dummy spot above the hazard swith for this purpose. Do use a relay off the grill wiring as the factory wiring is not adequate to carry the load. Hope this helps. Jim

Exactly what I determined when I put Humpty back together. A rear placement seems to work very well.

This was fresh in my mind because I just installed new bulbs last week! Roll tape.

If the 280 cases are mounted the same as the 240, you should see four phillips head screws at the four "corners" of the case backside. These are all you need to remove to get the complete case to fall back into the fender area. As mentioned above, it is easiest if you remove the wheel to get easy access to everything. If you see small nuts on posts, don't touch - those are the posts that secure the headlight bucket to the fender, probably three of them. Re-install tip: push the four screws through the rubber gasket before moving the case back into place. Wiggle each screw to locate the captive nut and finger start the screw. Good luck. Jim

This is what happens when a spook on a lowered car encounters water in a flooded intersection. Years ago, it was ripped from the car and I recovered it after the water was gone. The right side duct was lost and a significant shatter at that point, a complete break at the left side duct, and all mount points were damaged. I removed the left duct and used it to model a foam form for the right side replacement, then did extensive glass layup to repair everything. A successful Humpty Dumpty story.

Stephan, My Spook is a 1st-gen BRE model, used only in the 1970 SCCA competition. The design was revised to your model beginning with the 1971 season. If you have any doubts on the authenticity of my Spook, check out the vintage photos for sale on the BRE site. The John Morton car for 1970 has my model on it. I suspect the 1st-gen version did not generate adequate downforce and was more of an air dam, thus the revised version. Jim