jfa.series1

Nothing serious - just a little surface rust to clean off, slight alignment issue with the LF fender, a couple of mechanicals as stated, ...! As he said, nothing serious.

Not having personal experience in this, it seems you will also want to pay attention to valve-piston clearances. Regular flat-top pistons are not dished for valve clearance.

Here is the set of covers I purchased directly from Seatz just before they decided to work exclusively with distributors such as MSA and others. Check out the richness of the grain in the center panels. The stitching and shape of all the panels are spot-on with the OE covers. I'm big-time satisfied with every aspect of these covers.

Seatz does resto seat covers and other items for MANY different cars, so specific items are usually in a run or batch. Have patience, you will really like the product! Check out their site for more info: http://www.seatzmfg.com/seatz/index.htm

If the ones from MSA are still made by Seatz out of CA, they will be some of the best quality and most authentic reproduction covers you can find. A call to MSA should confirm their supplier.

This is not Z related but does contain an interesting caution for international shipping of autos. European buyers of Z's from the U.S. come to mind. International Shipping - Mercedes-Benz Gullwing | Hagerty Articles

Check the plastic fresh air ducts near the radiator frame. If they are broken down, that could also be a source of engine bay gases getting into the cabin.

Consider giving them some of that positive feedback on their FB page - that goes a long way with most companies.

The MSA bulbs are too long to fit well (been there, done that). Try Planet Bulb for a 4-watt bulb by Eiko #A-72. Its a nice upgrade.

Your new gasket is produced by PRP and this is a somewhat common problem. I have a similar issue my PRP hatch glass gasket. It is not going to stretch to cover the opening so if you stay with that gasket you'll probably have to add some sealant to the corner areas. Genuine Nissan gaskets are still available for the front and hatch glass and don't have these problems. They are also more pricey!

Dave Irwin is the go-to guy for refurbing turn signal and headlight combo switches. His e-mail is wolfin32z@yahoo.com. You won't be disappointed!

Just confirmed - #201 IS still available for sale. The previously reported deal fell thru. Bill and his wife have a deal on their MO home, really want this car gone before they move back to TX.

Bill's son is going to school in the Dallas area, I just contacted him for any new info.

If the doors are still hung, check their alignment with the body to see if adjustments at the hinge mounting bolts are required. You also mentioned the C pillar glass - I presume you mean the quarter window. If so, you will want to get that item well installed before any door glass as the door window frame will potentially have interference when you close the door. Latches next per the above comments and finally the door window parts. Be sure to exercise your door locks with the key before moving to the door glass - making adjustments is easier at this point. What worked best for me was regulator and center channel first, forward channel (loose), window, stainless frame last. Door seals will come after all the hardware is back in. After that its just making all the fit adjustments. Easy for me to say, right?

My car came stock with a double nut setup which I still have in place today. That might have changed with later models.

When getting everything back together, don't overlook the second nut on the end of the shaft. It is not shown on the diagram in your original post but you want a double nut to lock the primary nut in place so it does not back off.

For any of you that are tired of dealing with slow and aging turn signal flashers, consider upgrading to an electronic (non-thermal) unit similar to this one. For the purists - it is not OE, but it does make one heck of a difference in the signal flash rate. The same unit can also be used to replace the hazard flasher. These units do not have the small mounting tab that the OE aluminum can styles have on the top. A 1/2" square of Velcro on the top will solve the mounting issue. One of the best updates I ever made! Novita/Turn Signal Flasher (EL12) | AutoZone.com

It also has the correct console, steering wheel, tool storage behind the seats. Interior looks pretty good but the door panels may have been molested with speakers. Too bad about the body kit and sunroof.

No heat shields in that area, just the open cavity between the fender and the spare tire well. Is it possible you have an exhaust leak in the area that is pumping exhaust heat directly at the underside of the body?

Here is my somewhat "defaced" brochure. The document is about 3/8" wider than my scanner bed so I centered it for the scans - there is about a 3/16" loss on the sides of each page.

Those bumper override bars may have some interest to a restorer. Consider advertising them in the classifieds before you discard them.

Be cautious when tightening the exhaust manifold nuts & intake manifold bolts. The max. torque is 8.7 lbs. per the FSM.

Carburetor porn??? Sounds a bit kinky!

The link worked fine for me, very interesting read. Noteworthy update at the top of the page about marine paint now being the product of choice - I suspect it provides a harder finish. I also found a use for oil-based paint (Behr, not Rustoleum) for my interior floorboards. I took my inspection lid to a big box to be scanned and they mixed up a quart to match. They recommended Penetrol to aid in the flow. You can see the match in the pic.

Great looking flares, hope your score some on your upcoming trip. Safe travels!