jfa.series1

Charles, This may help in getting the lines routed. The small line at the top left does connect to the vapor line going to the engine bay.

My car when I disassembled it in 1999 - the seat mount brackets look to have been spray painted as overspray is visible on the inner rocker.

Those are looking exceptionally nice, the well-defined grain is awesome! I'm all of us will be looking forward to your comments a the time of final installation. How about a link to their website?

A final observation: the inboard mounting location for the retractor is going to result in constant rubbing of the lapbelt against the side of the seat. Good luck with your project.

Seat belt retractors were introduced with the '72 model cars. It is my understanding the many/most aftermarket retractors do not fit well into the recess.

One more vote for using the factory mounting points for any seatbelt option you choose. Don't gamble your life with a questionable install. The WESCO belts are an easy install with your OE bolts and comfortable in use.

Looking so very good Charles! You are clearly the bulldog clip king of your neighborhood!!!

Hey Matt, The OE paint was pretty cheap and slapped on with a brush, probably a cross between flat and satin. I would recommend satin as flat will hold dust and dirt. I used gloss on my radiator support just to make it easier to wipe down.

Thanks for the feedback, I passed it on to my friend.

Yup, private FB group.

Here are some pics from my project, just a few VINs younger than Lily. No blackout around the quarter windows as the weather strip seal will cover everything. Blackout on the interior B-pillar at the leading edge of the dogleg panel: Blackout along the A-pillar and frame rail at the kick panel edges: Blackout on the front of the radiator support and the five mounting points for the grill: Also the seat mounting brackets: No blackout behind the speaker holes in the rear interior panel. Hope this helps.

Don't overlook your clutch MC and slave in this process as it may have the same "vintage" hydraulic fluid. Change out the rubber line going into the slave just as you are changing out the brake lines.

This is the spoiler used by BRE in the early 70's, as you can see it is a perfect fit for my 12/70 car. It is currently available from BRE. https://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=020B03&Category_Code=bre_datsun_body_parts

CZCC Rogues Gallery - Memphis style!

That's who I was looking for - seeking for a friend. Please do let me know your thoughts on their offerings. Thanks, Jim

Hey gang, I recall seeing recent posts of someone getting new or refurbed sail panel and/or other body emblems, can't recall the company doing them. Any help? Thanks, Jim

I've made it to two ZCON's - Memphis and Austin (brutally hot experiences) , missed two that that we really wanted to attend - Toronto and Nashville. No doubt the convention dates are influenced by the availability of nearby track dates. But one will always have to understand exactly WHY those dates are available - perhaps because others have the good sense to avoid them???

Not my car but very close with body-colored bumpers! Edit: the article is incorrect where it discusses the 240Z engine block number not matching the VIN. I sent a note to MotorTrend explaining the difference is intentional with pics of my engine bay data plate and warranty card. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/where-is-the-vin-number-on-a-car/

Here's a version of that kit that I installed on my car somewhere around 48-50 years ago. Note that the pre-tension measuring gauge is made of fiberboard, not metal. I can't recall the source, but pretty sure it was not Nissan.

Thanks. The base/color coat is Dupli-Color BFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray - a Ford color. Credit for the research and development of this process goes to our very own member @CanTechZ and I have used it on several sets of panels, including the ones on my car. The pics I included are part of a set currently posted in the Classifieds if you want to see more images.

It sounds like you are satisfied with the color, just not the gloss. I agree - way more glossy than OE. Try this: Dupli-Color HWP106 Wheel Matte Clearcoat. That will get you back to a OE-like finish. These are done with a different product for the color, topped with the Wheel Matte Clearcoat.

I stand corrected on the question of the wiper activating with the washer. Sorry for the bad info. 1973 introduced the intermittant wiper function so that could make a logical tie-in to the washer circuit.

Looking at the switch design suggests each of the contact blades is completing an independent circuit - one for power and one for ground. I recommend you run a continuity check for each circuit to verify each is working correctly. If so, that will take the switch out of the problem. As to the wiper question, the answer is no - the wipers do not come on when the washer is activated.

Actually, that is a discolored plastic insulating washer.

I think it should be possible to service the washer circuit contacts by removing only the screw that holds the contact spring blades in place. Open the wiring harness support bracket to allow movement of the wiring before loosening the screw. Several tiny parts in this area, be careful not to lose anything - do the work over a soft towel to avoid runaway bits! Going this route avoids a much more complex disassembly involving the switches.