jfa.series1

Consider swapping the pads from one side to the other. If the problem changes sides, then the pads are likely compromised. If no change, then a sticking caliper or suspension movement is more likely.

Here's another welcome aboard! You've got a great rescue and we'll be looking forward to following your efforts. There are several Black Pearl members lurking about, you'll be able to get some quality advice as might be needed.

@joe newsom - I took another look at your pics, specifically the pics showing a look down on the hood. The bumper should exactly parallel the leading edge of the hood all the way out to the headlight buckets and it seems yours does not. I cannot come up with an explanation as to how your bumper opened up the "V" but its possible the problem begins at the center point.

NO! The bumper should be nestled right up to the body - about 1/8" (no more than 1/4") away from the body.

Dave Irwin is a well-respected member of our community who developed relay kits for the headlights and turn signals for 240Z's. In their wisdom, Nissan chose to run the current directly through the respective switches which eventually resulted in frying a lot of switches and fuse boxes. Dave's kits solved those problems by using relays tripped by the switches and route power directly from the battery. His kits are available from MSA and one of the best electrical system investments a 240Z owner can make. Been there, done that!

The fan knob also has a small set screw - run your fingers around the sides, you locate it.

Welcome to the group, you'll get lots of quality advice and help on this site as you see above. I see you're deep in the Hill Country so you want to consider watching Craigslist in the surrounding large cities - Austin, San Antonio, Houston, D/FW, Waco. There's a Z club in Austin - Capital Z is the name. You might try to contact them for possible leads. Jeff @Hardway are you listening? Be cautious of eBay, lots of cars are misrepresented. The basic advice most of us provide is buy the best car you can possibly afford and the second rule is the rust you see represents only a fraction of what is actually there. Good luck and keep us posted on your search.

CO - I thought I had some pics of a buddy's car all recently done in cad but no joy. The best I can describe is that the color is a yellow-gold, none of the blue or green highlights of zinc and a flat finish, almost a micro crinkle.

Only zinc to the best of my knowledge. Cadmium is more expensive and has a distinctive color and finish I've never seen on an original car.

A light touch with a heat gun will put some flex into the filler neck. Very light touch!!! Been there, done that.

You've probably heard the old saying "Do it right or do it over". You really don't want any do-overs here. The Z unibody is too dependent on all of the panels and box members being right. If the outer rockers are shot, how are the inner rockers? If the floors are gone, are the underlying frame rails also compromised? Be sure you have a good picture of all of the areas to be repaired and make sure the shop has a good frame machine to get the car properly locked in place for the replacement work. Good luck and keep us posted.

Sold: Fuel linkage X 2, battery hold-down, cam cover, plug wire holder, 240Z coil bracket, fuel rail.

@Jaymanbikes Hers are pics of both rails - essentially the same, everything nice and straight. Note that the rail in the back has the rear port at an angle. I could not find signs that it had been bent by a PO so I left it alone (if it ain't broke, don't fix it). Let me know if you need more info.

Not yet but will get to work on that and get it posted soon. Thanks.

Sold: Harmonic Balancer, NOS Steering Coupler, Wiper Blade Frames, Crossmember Plates, Sidemarker Boots, Series 1 Panel, Fuel Pump Plate, Differential Mount, Inspection Lids.

A couple of responses, thanks. Please include a shipping address if you are contacting me, will need it to get actual postage costs on most items.

Hey gang, I have a bunch of parts available - some new, some NOS, some refurbished, and some just plain used. Too many to photograph and list individually. Check out the attached PDF and get back to me if there is something you're interested in. Rather than clutter the forum, I suggest a PM or email (listed on the bottom of the PDF). Note that shipping is extra at actual cost on all items. Jim Parts List 09-21-18.pdf

Thanks for correcting my rash statement on "no vacuum", I overlooked the dizzy advance.

In that these cars had NO vacuum lines other than the brake booster, the quick answer is none are needed. Look closely and you'll see that they are attached to the overflow ports on the carb float bowls. Normally these ports would be connected to the factory air filter box so the PO connected them to the CAI tubing. Right now your safe bet is to leave it all in place. Long-term, clean it all up by removing the CAI setup as previously recommended and get a stock air filter box back on it. Here's a pic of a heat shield missing from your set-up, it bolts to the intake manifolds and provides a significant barrier of exhaust heat to the bottom of the carbs. It can be installed with a header as on your car.

Seriously nice work! I thinks lots of folks will appreciate this. Perhaps it should be added to the technical library.

Joe - I installed new squeegee strips in the same manner as the fuzzy strips we recently covered: an even spread of pop rivets. Jim

Remember - you are known by the company you keep. We'll always have Austin!!!

@Zedyone_kenobi - did mine on the cheap and refinished it myself.

Here: https://www.240zrubberparts.com/

Sounds a bit like the slave cylinder has failed. it might be an internal failure without an external leak. Get one person to operate the clutch pedal, another to observe if the clutch fork is moving.