jfa.series1

I agree that is difficult to see a 5/70 build date titled as a '71. Back then transportation to the dealers was easily 3 - 4 months so the registration (title) date was subject to a blend of info from the dealers, and local and state procedures. A 5/70 car likely arrived at a dealer either in August or September, right at the cusp of most model year changes. My 12/70 car arrived at the dealer in late March.

I think the heat riser was introduced somewhere around VIN 4,000 but please don't hold me to that. That included the butterfly on the snorkel and the decal for summer/winter. As to the timing for the rest of the decals I have no idea but suspect they started prior to the heat riser addition. With his background in restorations, Mike McGinnis of Banzai - @zspert might have a much better handle on this.

Primary damage - all over Estimated retail value - $25,000 Bwaaaahhhhaaahhhaaaa!!!! ?

Doesn't bode well for a new Z. https://www.cnn.com/2019/11/12/cars/nissan-earnings-report/index.html

Difficult to confirm it is the same - it is similar as you suggest. In the seller's 3rd pic you can spot the electrical plug location at about 12 o'clock. Go back to my pics and you can see a raised shape/cover about the same location as the tube that may have been to provide air circulation around the body of the motor. The OE motor has air vents at the back of the metal housing, none visible in the plastic housing of the Kia item.

I went thru the same problem after my resto. Barring worn hinges as a root cause, keep trying the push-down procedure as you have been doing. I do recommend you pull the grill (only five screws) to be able to get to all the mounting bolts easily from the front as you or a buddy apply pressure to the leading edge of the hood. I kept the torsion rods in place when doing mine.

Welcome to the group! Keep us posted on your adventures with the new ride.

I think the 280Z went with a space-saver spare so that's not going to be a match.. I think any 240Z and likely a 260Z will have the correct rear section for you. Check your area salvage yards for a car you can cut out. Also - not to drive you away from this group but you also have the Connecticut Z Car Club to draw on for possible assistance in locating what you need: http://www.ctzcc.com/

I have to disagree with your post regarding the Series 1 version. I am the original owner of my car and the switch with the twin triangles on the handle is original to the car. You'll note that member @w3wilkes indicates his 12/70 car has the same version of the switch and handle.

For the purpose of dating, my 12/70 car has the twin-triangle version of the switch handle.

+1 on these type units even if you're not yet running LED's. Swap out the turn signal and hazard cans.

Welcome to the group! That looks like a great family project, can't believe you kept it a secret from us all this time. Looking forward to your pics of the finished product.

+1 on the Duplicolor approach. I've finished one grill and two rear panel sets with that combination. The grill close-up is for a color check. BTW - I primered the back side of the rear panels then sealed with clear.

Here's another welcome to the group. All the voyeurs here are looking forward to your resto updates. The bare spots from the removal of the rear bumper suggest this car was yellow at birth.

Just announced - 400 rooms added to the block at the same rate. Get 'em before they're gone!

I was able to make a reservation yesterday thru the link ZCCA provided. It looks like only King bed rooms are available now, no rooms with the two doubles. Keep in mind these are suites so there is a queen size sleeper sofa in the living room.

Marking it sold, look for a PM.

View Advert 240Z Hatch Strut Completely refurbished OE 240Z hatch strut with mounting brackets and all fittings. The strut and brackets were stripped to bare metal, primed then painted in satin black. Bolts and nuts have been commercially replated in clear zinc. The compression resistance is exceptionally strong – like new! Don’t mess with aftermarket parts that require adapters or other compromises – get the real deal, perfect for that restoration project! $55 includes standard domestic shipping, international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks! Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 11/18/2019 Price $55.00 Category Parts for Sale

Here you go.

I have the original style BRE (as in installed in 1971), well pleased with the appearance. Be advised in advance - you'll sacrifice your hatch badging and likely have at least one hole showing after you install a spoiler. That is one fine looking car!

View Advert 240Z Spare Tire Hold-down Spare tire hold-down wing-screw and plate. Stripped to bare metal, professionally replated. Does not have the rubber ring. $35, includes standard domestic shipping. Payment via PaPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 11/07/2019 Price $35.00 Category Parts for Sale

Possibly neither. Early lenses will likely have "IKI 5004 JAPAN" at one end, "SAE PIA69" at the other end.

That would be the very looong and cold Canadian winter, eh?

You are on target - the side marker lenses are a two-piece construct. There is a very thin line of glue holding the two together. Short of attempting to pry them apart and risk breaking a lens, you might try using a dull razor blade to clean out the crack between the two pieces.

Dann, The metal plate in the arm rest is designed with the cone shape to fit the installation screw. No way the screw caused the plate to deform. I think you are on the right track to re-seat the plate in a bed of spray foam and then use a layer of foam to seal it. Hopefully the spray foam will bond to the original foam, that stuff will stick to almost anything!