jfa.series1

It slides out.

Just force them out with a large screwdriver. Its an intentional snug fit.

Oops, nix the cotter key answer. The pin is secured in place by the adjustment screw, it has a square nut on each side of the mounting bracket at the handle. Loosen the rear nut and unscrew the adjustment screw.

The "U"-shaped bracket is secured by a pin with cotter key if I recall correctly. You have to remove the pin to get the bracket to drop.

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No matter how attractive the product, it it doesn't fit well and fully complement the car you'll always see the problem and have regrets. Better to get something that works well with the platform that you can always admire. You probably knew the answer to your question even as you posted.

There's no left or right to these brackets. I suggest you leave them a bit loose on the body during the install and make the final tighten after you have the bumper correctly positioned.

Oops, never mind.

So... now Trump is saying the doctors are profiteering with Covid-19 diagnosis, and Jr. is saying the docs are morons and the death count is nothing. I can't even begin to imagine the death count if it weren't for the medical professionals who are exhausting themselves and even dying for our care. But... at the current rates of increase in infections and hospitalizations we may soon come to understand the true impact on our medical professionals as they are potentially overwhelmed and unable to save lives. 😢

The carpet section and jute pad (if still there) should easily be removable from under the seat. Since you have the front nuts installed, rake the seat back forward and then slide the seat fully forward. That should get you enough room to install the rear nuts. Yeah, its snug but doable. I've had seats out and back in any number of time, never had to remove the seat back.

Just stop the testing and this all goes away!

There should be a long curved sheet metal piece that is vinyl covered to cover the inner rocker. It attaches with some small sheet metal screws. The piece has a smaller curved section on the top that secures the door weatherstrip along the pinch weld.

That's the drain for the aftermarket A/C, note how the floorboard metal is pushed out crudely. The cowl drain is hidden behind the fender just forward of the door hinges, is a large tube.

Restored '73 flat-top rail for comparison.

First, let me comment that those carbs and manifolds are true automotive jewelry - absolutely stunning! Your mention of the fuel rail caught my attention so here are a few observations. The supply nozzle positions for the flat-tops are substantially different than for round-tops so I recommend you get a fuel rail from a '70-72 model car - the pic is a Series 2 style from the later '71's and 72's. The rail is longer and correctly positions the nozzles for the feed to the floats. As @Patcon mentioned, the asbestos wrap is a big caution. They put it on the '72's and later, carbed and injected. It has an adhesive that will have melted around everything, expect to find significant corrosion under it. Also, the wrap contributes to deterioration of the nylon insulators for the mounting tangs. I've restored quite a few of these rails and faced all of these issues. Jim

Your extra grill is likely from a 260Z as you suggest. The outer/lower mounting tabs are significantly different than found on a 240Z. Reach into the grill now on your car to find the difference.

Per Carl Beck's Zhome registry of owners, #7081 and #7273 were both built 07/70, they bracket your car so there's your build date.

Just to aggravate another thread topic of past, I note the steering wheel is red/brown and not blond! 😉

+1 on the return to body color option. You'll have a choice between single stage (like OE) and two stage processes, choose one to best match to current body finish. Going with body color will give the various engine bay bits the best opportunity to be seen.

No thoughts on the bump stops - it was 10 years ago when I got mine. Others may have some recommendations.

Yeah, you really should install bump stops with any spring that lowers the car. The bushing installs big end up and is designed to fit right up into the insulator. Also, have some anti-seize on hand for the threads on the shocks and the gland nuts. Tighten the nut on the shock shaft slowly to avoid any heat buildup.

First and foremost, welcome to the group. You won't find a more helpful or supporting bunch anywhere on the interweb. I recommend you go into your profile and add your VIN and build date to your signature area. This will be a big help to all of us when it comes to commenting on parts and processes - especially in your quest to keep the car stock wherever possible.

If it fit before, it should fit now. Without the mounting brackets in play, the ends of the bumper should tuck right in to the fender recesses and I suspect they did just that prior to the chrome replating. To me that suggests that something happened at the plating shop that has warped or distorted the bumper. If you have a buddy with a OE bumper perhaps you could lay yours on his to check the shape and identify where the change is located. You are right in expecting stress on the body panels if you attempt to pull it in on one side or both - it should not need to be pulled in with the bolts.

Is this a replacement bumper?