jfa.series1

Indeed, I am 70+, probably a ++. 70 disappeared from my rear-view mirror quite some time ago! 😁

The years just keep on rolling by...

If you are on Facebook, look up Sal Ceja - he probably has all of the bits you are looking for. There are several Sal Ceja's on FB, his account will be the one with Z cars in the photos.

I have aftermarket belts from Wesco that are perfect for my car. I installed the Roadster Retractable belts years ago and am quite satisfied. The retractor is installed at the shoulder belt mount point above the quarter window. If you go with these, specify the 11" rigid sleeve for the buckle. No hardware kit is required and you can use your OE seatbelt bolts. https://www.wescoperformance.com

Sorry, no other pics or dimensions. These plates were sold several years ago. They are a thin material, should be pretty easy to fab up.

The boots were used on all S30's. The '77-78 280Z's did not list them as a separate P/N because the hinge and boot was listed as a complete assembly.

If you can be sure your car will NEVER, EVER get wet for any reason such as rain, car wash, or other situation, you can consider going without these boots. You are correct - they prevent water from getting into the hinge pocket in the roof section. Once water is in there you can be sure the rust worms will be hard at work! When replacing the boots, it is important to retain the metal plates that fit between the boot and the hinge. The plates prevent the boot from being distorted when the hinge bolts are tightened. The plates are NOT a separate P/N, they came to Nissan from the OE boot mfr. as part of an assembly. The plates are not offered by the companies now making the repro boots, must be reused from the owner's car or obtained from a donor vehicle.

The signature pic is from 2021, probably with the cut-down stock springs. Here is another view: This is an earlier pic with the Eibach's, just a tad lower:

The "stock" springs that were sold to you might have come from a later year and heavier car, i.e. a 260Z or 280Z. If so, that could explain the higher ride height. Cutting coils is certainly an option but it comes with a penalty of higher spring rates and a stiffer ride. Your best long term bet is to start over with a known product, Eibach Progressive and Voightland are a couple of options. I experimented with cut-down stock 240Z springs with two coils removed. It did lower the car some but the ride quality suffered so I returned to Eibachs that I had on hand.

The car is certainly the right color!

It has been over 10 years ago since I did this but as best as I can recall I installed the grommet and then fed the in-cabin connectors and wires through it one-by-one. No removal of connectors from the wires.

Also, the type A shift lever is straight while the type B shift lever is bent per your picture.

My opinion is that clear coat will enhance and give more "pop" to any of the OE colors. We would probably have to hear from some folks who have resprayed in single stage to get other viewpoints.

Consider that these cars were painted in a single-stage process 50 years ago. Most paint jobs these days are two-stage with the clear coat making a huge difference in appearance.

Here are two pics - one without the hard lines and one with them in place. If you can obtain a clutch hard line from a parts car, it should help you to position the bracket on the frame rail. Hope this helps.

Charles, If your fuse box is toast, consider the MSA version with the spade fuses. I installed one with my resto. It was a good match with one exception - they did not have the two large female spade terminals, supplied butt connectors instead. I replaced those with spade terminals to match with the harness. Jim

Charles, Its been quite a few years but as best as I can recall I used either a 5/8" or 3/4" wide closed cell weatherstrip on both the edge of the splashguards and the bulkhead at the back of the fenders where it butts up against the A-pillar. This stuff is self-adhesive, usually available at most auto supply stores. Jim

Just over four years ago my buddy @zed2 and I heard that there were some parts available a bit north of us so we made a road trip up to Sherman TX. We met with a guy that owned his own railroad station (another story there!) and he explained that a good friend was in the VA hospital dying of cancer. The friend was an old Datsun mechanic that had assembled some parts over the years and this guy was trying to sell some of them to help with the friend's bills. We followed him to another community and were introduced to what turned out to be a motherload of Z parts. There were several S30's and a couple of S130's on the property, a small dilapidated pole shed with some parts and a 30' shipping container. When opened, the shippiing container revealed boxes of parts lining both walls, all marked with the contents. With only limited time available that day we made a hurried sample inspection and made arrangements for a return trip with more time and more money. On the return trip we moved and inspected every box, setting aside those of further interest. I ended up with a lengthy list of purchases that filled the entire cargo compartment of my Xterra. A hoped for third trip was not to happen as the mechainc died and his property went into probate with the nearest family in Nebraska. I often wonder what became of the remaining parts hoard.

The splash guards mount directly to the body, no foam. The outer edge gets foam to seal it against the fender. Great work on getting Lily back together!

The overlaps on the plastic panels will give you a good clue. The quarter window panels fit on top of the rear panels. So... install the rear panels, then the quarter window panels. The panel across the back covering the lights goes in after the rear panels. The panel across the top for the dome light is last. Yes - the bolt for the shoulder harness goes thru the plastic on the quarter window panel. If you install some thin foam along the front edge of the rear panel where it fits under the quarter window panel, you can reduce sqeaking from the two panels rubbing against each other.

Testing the OE antenna motor function is pretty easy. It has two power leads, one for going up and one for going down. The antenna motor grounds thru the body. Ground the body and apply power to one lead and then the other but not to both at the same time. When I found my car on the showroom floor many years ago, the dealer had removed the AM radio and installed an 8-track unit. He moved the rocker-style antenna switch to the side of the console where it remains today. If you have the later style slider switch it could probably be mounted in a similar manner. Let us know which parts of the body mount you have and which ones are needed. I'm sure fellow members can fill in the gaps.

A good alternative to clamps is blue painter's tape.

Here are pics and measurements for the OE wiring cover still on my car. The aftermarket cover offered by MSA mentioned by @26th-Z is notoriously undersized. Note that the edges of the OE cover are bowed out.

The flow-thru ventilation change from the hatch to the sail panel was a hard change beginning with cars produced in February 1971. The parts catalog image supplied by @CanTechZ makes it clear that a second version of the Series 1 console was used thru July '71. Your shifter rod is probably a straight version consistent with the Type A transmission.