jfa.series1

Congratulations Jim - and a big Hello to Jim S. as well. Looks like it was a great show and a wonderful location.

Cliff - here's a couple of pics from my install. The "S" pipe should have a welded on hanger aft of the flange that lines up with the OE hanger above. Hope this helps. Jim

Hi Mark - No real issues with the transmission other than some occasional balkiness on 3-2 downshifts. Its the OE Type A gearbox with 96k miles on it, including several years of AX back in the 70's. I just figured anything that might extend the life of the internals is worth a try. Charles - miles are slow to accumulate on my little garage queen, especially now in our TX summer heat. I'll post some feedback when it seems to make sense. Jim

Drained the transmission fluid and replaced it with the reputed Magic Elixir for old synchros.

I bought a set for my project a few years ago. They were a very nice product, excellent finish. When I went to install them I realized they were straight and did not have the slight curve that my OE's have. I tried to warp them into the curve as I pressed them onto the door but was afraid that any slip would damage my fresh paint job. Since I bought them for the replacement squeegee's, I ended up removing the rubber bits and installing them on my OE stainless. If all you need are the new squeegee's, I think they are now available - not necessarily at BD. Others on this forum may have that info.

Thanks Rich, Congrats back to you on your 3rd, nice finish in what was probably a tough bunch. That is a VERY impressive museum. Clearly some extremely deep pockets at work there, little wonder he claimed a 1st.

I attended a very nice show this weekend with a concours-like setting, lots of very fine cars. The major divisions were English, German, Italian, Domestic, and International - for any vehicle not in the other groups. I managed to snag a 1st in this lightly populated division. For anyone on Facebook, I've created an album with some show photos. https://www.facebook.com/jim.arnett.240z/media_set?set=a.959359637516728.1073741831.100003281014642&type=3

When you speak of the model year, that is usually the DMV title year. Many/most states would title the car for the coming year beginning around August. That suggest that cars with a 08/70 build date and after will be titled as a '71 in most instances. Nissan decided to change the flow-thru ventilation design beginning in February 1971. The cars produced thru late January '71 (approx. 20,500 units) had the vent in the rear hatch and a smooth sail panel. These are the cars commonly referred to as Series 1. Looking back thru this thread, you have not yet given us the VIN and build dates for either of your cars.

Got room for another Jim???

You're a lucky man to have a family so appreciative of that great looking car. Fantastic pic!

Here's the drain hose in the center of the pic. It connects inside the car to the underside of the cowl with a large hose clamp. Very easy to get to inside, no need to remove the dash. One on each side.

Fantastic! Congrats to both.

AmaZing work, Jim! All the more reason to work out a trip to AR to get caught up with you guys and all your projects.

Here's another pence worth: give a bit of reconsideration to holding out for a Series 1. There will be a far greater number of cars to choose from if you open it up to the Series 2 cars - late 71's and after, i.e. higher yearly production quantities. The early cars came with the Type A transmission which had some weaknesses. Also, I've heard there were unibody structure improvements in the later cars. Others on this forum may be able to comment on that.

Follow these links to the Hagerty site for the valuations on your cars. Click on the $ value to see the complete description of each of the condition ratings. Use your own judgement as to how your cars match today or their potential after you invest in their updates. https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1971-Datsun-240Z https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1973-Datsun-240Z

OK folks, here's the 60-day bump to see who else is going to make it to the big dance. Hey Grannyknot, its your home turf - eh? Surely others in the northeast U.S. will be there.

Hmmmm... there's something vaguely familiar about that color (colour?). Thanks for the call last night, can hardly wait to see you guys again! Kind of like pee-in-my-pants excited.

About the only way you can check your engine # is to locate a couple of VIN's that closely bracket your VIN, then check their engine #'s if original. If your engine # is bracketed by those others, it is likely the original engine. Mind you - I said likely but not guaranteed. At one time there was an online spreadsheet that folks could enter their details. Unfortunately, that site is now gone. Perhaps someone on this forum made a copy for reference. Post your VIN to this thread and see if anything pops up.

Plans were in place, registration paid - then we found out our granddaughter's HS graduation is 06/02. Won't be making it to the fest this year and will really miss the Memphis-revisited reunion. Have fun!

Which is why I hedged my statement as a general rule of thumb. I can't confirm the color of the coil bracket. Another couple of examples are the fuel filter bracket and the brake vac check valve clamp on the firewall - both finished in black. Someone with a pure stock car such as AZ-240 would have to chime in with specifics if our OP wants to go with that level of detail.

With the fan issue settled, your second question is about the finish on the various fasteners and clamps. A general "rule of thumb" is that everything forward of the firewall has a yellow zinc or cadmium finish, everything aft of the firewall is white/clear zinc. One exception to this is the fuel cap, collar, and screws are all done in yellow zinc / cadmium. I think the early cars (perhaps all) had clear zinc finish on the OE hose clamps. I did all my OE hose clamps in yellow zinc for consistency under the hood. Also, the fuel rail is yellow zinc / cadmium.

Hockey pucks with a 1/4"W X 1/2"D slot are the perfect interface for using jack stands at the jacking points. A slotted puck can also used with a floor jack at the jacking point. Cheap, too!!!

No doubt while you were watching football with your favorite adult beverage close at hand.

If you go with a foreign sale, keep in mind that our fellow member Blue has good experience in this space. Consider contacting him if you need guidance or advice.

The deposit thru PayPal protects both of you whereas a funds transfer to your bank only protects you. The buyer's reluctance on this part is a bit suspicious. I agree totally with Jonathan, you need to have the total price in hand or in an escrow account before signing anything away.