jfa.series1

You might also consider using Greyhound for shipping bulky items.

Alan - many thanks for reviving this post. Fantastic reading.

A few other points of consideration: - The majority of cars produced in 1969 actually arrived in the U.S. in calendar 1970; - Most of the 1969 production cars are titled as 1970 models, state DMV's make their own decisions so a very few chose 1969; - 1970 is the first full year of production. Ultimately, as Steve points out, its Nissan's determination to make and we'll all be glad to party with them in 2020. Trivia: when Ford introduced the Mustang at the New York World's Fair in April 1964 they called it a 1964 1/2 model.

Let's presume your dash controls look like this. The top lever is for (1) a flap to open or close an opening from the cowl, and (2) another flap that manages the direction of the fresh air inside the heater box. When in the off position, no outside air comes in and the flap to admit cabin air in to the heater box is open. This is where your A/C system would be routing air. Air flow comes out thru the center and outboard vents. The center lever is pretty self-explanatory: it manages the water valve to block or admit hot water to the heater core. The bottom lever shifts air between defrost or room. The owners manual says this lever has "no relation" when the vent is open. The aftermarket A/C system has to use the above. It is the equivalent of "recirc" in a modern system - no fresh air. If you have the top lever anywhere but OFF, you dumping outside air into heater box and defeating the A/C. Adding to the problem is the blower fan in the heater box is trying to pull air thru the A/C, an inherently poor solution. None of this has anything to do with the V8 conversion UNLESS they also messed with stuff in the cabin. Hope this helps a bit.

I suspect the date for 15647 is not correct, possibly a typo. My close sibling 15320 is also a December build.

Given to me recently by an insider who told me Nissan would soon be releasing some commemorative items. Some of these may be making an appearance at ZCON.

Thanks Charles, My wife recently completed a long run of prednisone and the withdrawal left her with fatigue and body aches, now subsiding. She was in no shape to travel so we had to cancel our plans for ZCON. You, the Jims, Cliff, and others will have to party just a wee bit harder to cover for us. See you all next year in Branson I hope. Jim

If you make it to Dallas, we'd love to host you and Janet for a meal. Keep us posted on any plans to be in the area.

The complete light unit has to popped out of the overhead panel and bulb swapped out from the back. Its a tight area - tough to do up near the roof, you might want to unplug the light and do the swap on the bench.

Consider swapping the pads from one side to the other. If the problem changes sides, then the pads are likely compromised. If no change, then a sticking caliper or suspension movement is more likely.

Here's another welcome aboard! You've got a great rescue and we'll be looking forward to following your efforts. There are several Black Pearl members lurking about, you'll be able to get some quality advice as might be needed.

@joe newsom - I took another look at your pics, specifically the pics showing a look down on the hood. The bumper should exactly parallel the leading edge of the hood all the way out to the headlight buckets and it seems yours does not. I cannot come up with an explanation as to how your bumper opened up the "V" but its possible the problem begins at the center point.

NO! The bumper should be nestled right up to the body - about 1/8" (no more than 1/4") away from the body.

Dave Irwin is a well-respected member of our community who developed relay kits for the headlights and turn signals for 240Z's. In their wisdom, Nissan chose to run the current directly through the respective switches which eventually resulted in frying a lot of switches and fuse boxes. Dave's kits solved those problems by using relays tripped by the switches and route power directly from the battery. His kits are available from MSA and one of the best electrical system investments a 240Z owner can make. Been there, done that!

The fan knob also has a small set screw - run your fingers around the sides, you locate it.

Welcome to the group, you'll get lots of quality advice and help on this site as you see above. I see you're deep in the Hill Country so you want to consider watching Craigslist in the surrounding large cities - Austin, San Antonio, Houston, D/FW, Waco. There's a Z club in Austin - Capital Z is the name. You might try to contact them for possible leads. Jeff @Hardway are you listening? Be cautious of eBay, lots of cars are misrepresented. The basic advice most of us provide is buy the best car you can possibly afford and the second rule is the rust you see represents only a fraction of what is actually there. Good luck and keep us posted on your search.

CO - I thought I had some pics of a buddy's car all recently done in cad but no joy. The best I can describe is that the color is a yellow-gold, none of the blue or green highlights of zinc and a flat finish, almost a micro crinkle.

Only zinc to the best of my knowledge. Cadmium is more expensive and has a distinctive color and finish I've never seen on an original car.

A light touch with a heat gun will put some flex into the filler neck. Very light touch!!! Been there, done that.

You've probably heard the old saying "Do it right or do it over". You really don't want any do-overs here. The Z unibody is too dependent on all of the panels and box members being right. If the outer rockers are shot, how are the inner rockers? If the floors are gone, are the underlying frame rails also compromised? Be sure you have a good picture of all of the areas to be repaired and make sure the shop has a good frame machine to get the car properly locked in place for the replacement work. Good luck and keep us posted.

Sold: Fuel linkage X 2, battery hold-down, cam cover, plug wire holder, 240Z coil bracket, fuel rail.

@Jaymanbikes Hers are pics of both rails - essentially the same, everything nice and straight. Note that the rail in the back has the rear port at an angle. I could not find signs that it had been bent by a PO so I left it alone (if it ain't broke, don't fix it). Let me know if you need more info.

Not yet but will get to work on that and get it posted soon. Thanks.