jfa.series1

View Advert 240Z License Light Completely refurbished 240Z License Plate Light. The unit has been disassembled and cleaned. The main cover has been repainted to match a restored taillight surround panel. The back panel has been painted in a flat white, topped with a protective coat of clear. The bulb shields as well as the screws and clips to mount the light to the hatch sill have been stripped and professionally replated in clear zinc. A new, custom made neoprene seal is installed. The wiring harness has been checked for proper operation, bulbs are included. The matching color taillight panel set pictured is NOT included. $165 includes standard domestic shipping, international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via Paypal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 05/23/2020 Price $165.00 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert 240Z Heat Shield Completely refurbished – stripped to bare metal and professionally replated in clear zinc. This is the later style shield originally for 1970-1972 cars equipped with round-top carbs and the heat riser tube to the air filter snorkel. $85, includes standard domestic shipping; international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 05/23/2020 Price $85.00 Category Parts for Sale

+1 on the Group 24F choice, a perfect fit for the OE tray, frame and hold-down. The "F" designation swaps the positive terminal to the right and gets it out from under the fender.

Making progress on a couple of fronts - a small plating run came back yesterday including the fittings for the license lights. Now I need some cooperation from the weather to finish painting the back covers - forecast winds of 10-20 for several days! ☹️ Prep work on the inspection lights is wrapped up, assembly getting underway. Reinstalling the ground wire staple is a real PITA!!! A couple of units completed with many more to go, all waiting on new lenses. Also, a quick visual comparison of the aftermarket metal switch (unpainted) compared to a NOS switch.

Pretty sure that is an authentic Mr. K autograph, compare to the one I have below:

Another good option to replacing the reservoir is installing a zerk fitting to grease the rack.

The insulation blocks on the carbs and mechanical fuel pumps help prevent direct heat transfer from the head. The heat shield does a similar thing - a barrier between the exhaust and the carbs. If your car is relatively unmolested, you probably have a heat shield already in place. BTW - if you ever decide to tart up your ride a bit, I have a replated fuel rail looking for a good flat tops project!

I have the same isolator on my car and that clamp/fitting is unused.

Inspection lights back from plating, new grommets installed. Next up... final wiring checks and install.

If the bushing sleeve is too tight then you are fighting a completely different problem. The sleeve should be an easy slip fit for the pin.

Since the upright is a casting, the bore hole should be true. Check that the spindle pin will easily slide thru the bore without the control arm in place. Next, place the bushings in position in the control arm without the upright in place. Check that the spindle pin will slide thru both "ears" OK - again to check if the ears are true and in alignment. If OK, then position the control arm, bushings, and upright together as an assembly. As stated above, the spindle pin should easily slide into position thru the assembly. You may have to rotate the control arm or upright as you slide in the pin.

One of the best reads I've had in ages, many thanks!

View Advert S30 Hood Latch Set S30 Hood Latch Set. Complete upper and lower units with bolts. Stripped to bare metal and professionally replated in yellow zinc. No dings or scratches, this is a restoration quality set! $175 includes standard domestic shipping, international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 05/01/2020 Price $175.00 Category Parts for Sale

Cliff, Thanks for all the good info. Dave's article stated that he used a '91 Civic motor and that is what got me started down this path. No way a Civic motor matched his pics of a 3-bolt mount. I did a bit more surfing at Rockauto and saw that the '91 Accord motor looked liked Dave's pics. Yeah - the points you circled are the bolt holes. Do you have a link for the ready-made harness you mentioned? Jim

More Work In Progress: License Lights. While waiting for the inspection lights to get back from plating (they finally did!) I started on some license lights in the hoard. Of all the pieces and parts, three lights will make it thru to near term completion. The back sides have been painted flat white topped with clear to cover stains and increase brightness, bulb circuits all checked out, front covers going into primer. The gaskets on these units are usually shot but I was fortunate to find one not broken. To make new gaskets I had some 1/16" adhesive back neoprene on hand so I made a paper copy of the gasket on the printer, taped the copy to the neoprene, and cut out a new gasket. It turned out to be too thin to easily work so I doubled the neoprene and repeated the process. Success - three nice gaskets that fit securely in place.

Dave Irwin's tech article on the Honda Wiper Motor Swap/Upgrade shows a motor with three mounting bolts. All my research on this suggests that is the rear motor as all images I can find of a front motor show a four bolt installation. I pulled a couple of pics from Rockauto to illustrate the situation. It looks like these motors are consistent for the '88-91 model Civics. Can anyone confirm or clarify what I am finding? Thanks.

@Gav240z - sorry, no spares or other loose bits.

Turn signal reflectors with fresh faces. The box of turn signals came with some wiring harnesses. I'm familiar with the T-connector style but not the round one - 260Z?

A very interesting article on the Covid-19 impact on the hotel industry - especially important as it might pertain to large convention gatherings. Of course, if there is a Fall seasonal resurgence of the virus, a lot of things might change even more. https://www.nbcnews.com/business/consumer/so-long-minibar-how-coronavirus-changing-your-hotel-stay-n1180226

Unlike the skilled Nissan techs, I was never able to master removing the window without first removing the frame. So... removing the frame for your replacement felt should be easy peasy. No need to touch the window or regulator.

About 2 weeks late with this one. As a CPA I guess you are in Tax Day Shock - oh wait, we all have 60 day extensions!!!

Steve - thanks for your comment and link. I actually have the two brackets I requested but the studs were broken off on both. Your link inspired me to salvage them by grinding the heads down flush and then popping out the remaining stud. Now to follow the rest of your link with replacement bolts. Jim

Hey folks, As part of my refurb of turn signals and license lights, I am in need of a few parts. On the left in the pic is the small/outboard bracket (larger one is inboard) that secures the turn signal housing to the valance - needing two of these with nuts. On the right is the 30mm screw that holds the license light together, needing one. I'm hoping that one of our more prolific hoarders might have these bits. Not looking for freebies, will pay. Thanks, Jim

I have them front and rear, mostly for aesthetics since I don't track. The rear one did not stop the panel squeaks. I think that's why Nissan installed thin foam on all the edges.

Agreed, that might work. The OE squeegee strip has metal reinforced mounting in the body so you might want to reuse that portion to attach this product if you proceed.