jfa.series1

Welcome to the group, lots of quality help here for all models. The fender badges can likely be pushed out from the backside and if you are really creative you can possibly do the same for the hatch badges by removing the inner panel. You seem to be on track with the side moldings and installing new pop-rivets after the paint job should not be difficult. This is a good time to consider whether you want to stick with the side moldings - if not, ideal time to get the painter to have the holes closed. The badges aft of the quarter windows will have to be pried off, just go slowly and don't try to do it with one bite. Look at some pics of badges on ebay to get a feel for what they look like on the back side and where the pins are located. The more you remove (such as door and hatch locks), the better quality potential for the paint job.

The control arm bushing may be totally shot allowing the arm to move outboard under load.

After I swabbed out the oil I could see the shoulder with a flashlight and feel it with a long tool. No fiber optic tool so no pics. Now its all back together and on to the other side. Might or might not find the same situation.

A very big thanks for outstanding customer service from MSA and KONI! Like a few others, I could not get the gland nut to adequately thread into place because the shock was not seating properly. My struts are squeaky clean inside with no foreign debris. As recommended above, I contacted MSA about the issue. @Joseph@TheZStore quickly responded and identified a Nissan mfg. anomaly where the bottom cap on the strut has an internal shoulder. Chipped paint on the bottom of the new KONI shock confirmed the interference. MSA had modified gland nuts on hand for this problem and sent a pair to me at no cost. Note the machined internal relief shoulder on the gland nut on the right vs. stock on the left. The relief allowed the gland nut threads to fully engage and get the gap well under 4mm. One front strut down this morning, one to go for tomorrow and then on to the rears. Jim

The factory method of securing the top of the rear finisher panels to the hatch sill is with a set of plastic rivets that are a bit smaller than those used for the interior panels. I've seen them secured with pop-rivets and screws. The small rivets are available thru Nissan parts, possibly MSA.

If you browse the parts catalog - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978 you'll see quite a few references to parts with effective dates of YY08, generally consistent with model year changes. Of course you'll also find any number of other effective dates as Nissan's continuous improvement process did not restrict parts updates to model years. A good example is the introduction of the 260Z with most of its changes from a 240Z effective with month 08. So... your car is likely correctly titled as a 78 due to its month 08 birthday. When buying parts its always a good idea to check the catalog to get the correct version for your build date.

+1 on @siteunseen comments about the MSA header and Premium Exhaust package. Excellent fitment on the header, no issues when the intake manifolds are bolted up.

This is a 'Denki I refurbished, no such cracks or cuts.

View Advert 240Z Tail Light Assemblies A left and right set of US-spec 240Z tail lights complete with wiring harnesses. The lenses are in excellent condition with no cracks, scratches, chips, or other damage. They have been polished to a high shine, very much like-new. The chrome bars are OE and in very good condition. They have been polished and the center sections repainted in correct flat black. The left side bar has a chrome pen touch-up about 3/16” long (see detail pic). The back panels are in excellent condition – no cracks or other damage, all of the captive acorn nuts are in place with no damage. These lenses were not disassembled for the refurb. The wiring harnesses have been checked for correct operation. There are no cuts or splices in the wiring, all bulbs are included. $295 includes standard domestic shipping, international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal. PM if interested. Thanks! Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 08/08/2020 Price $295.00 Category Parts for Sale

If it is not tightening, it is possible the threads are stripped either on the bolt or the captive nut welded to the back of the firewall. Or... possibly you have an undersize bolt. The one in your pic is not OE, it should look like this one. Also, the bracket tab usually has a rubber insulator.

View Advert 240Z Turn Signal Housings Refurbished turn signal housings for 240Z or early 260Z. Reflectors removed and refinished in metal tape polished to high shine. Interiors painted in flat white. Lenses are original IKI units – not reproductions! Lenses have no scratches or cracks and have been polished to a high shine. The valance mounting brackets have been stripped and commercially replated, are fitted with new washers and flange nuts. Rubber gaskets are in like-new condition. Lights have been assembled with new stainless steel screws. NOTE - these are housings ONLY, no wiring harnesses included. $185 includes standard domestic shipping, international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks! Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 08/05/2020 Price $185.00 Category Parts for Sale

Matt, I think this should meet your need. The vapor line gets connected to the vapor valve with a short length of hose, not yet installed in this pic. The vapor valve is just below the ballast resistor. FYI - the not-stock item below the vapor valve is a compressor for air horns. Let me know if any questions. Jim

Sadly, won't be making the trip this year. I posted my rationale earlier today in my Hotel Impact thread.

It was with sad reluctance that I made the decision to cancel my ZCON hotel reservation last week. TN is one of the states seeing a marked increase in COVID-19 cases and Nashville has been particularly noted on some newscasts. This situation is not going to magically disappear in the next 6 weeks and I am very much in the susceptible age group. Even if I went to the event, I would then have to quarantine myself away from my home for a couple of weeks to ensure I did not bring the virus home to my wife who has an autoimmune condition. As an original owner, this 50th anniversary meeting holds a lot of significance to me but I cannot allow that to seriously jeopardize my health and that of my family. I will dearly miss meeting up with old friends and getting introduced to new ones from this great site. For those of you who move forward with plans to attend ZCON, I pray that you remain safe. I will have to "enjoy" the event vicariously thru your reports and photos.

+1 on getting the correct Datsun blue from Mike McGinnis, ZCCA approved!

Lots of new metal in there.

View Advert 240Z Master Vac Check Valve Bracket #2 Later style master vac check valve bracket - the thicker & wider metal version with the check valve retaining edges. P/N 47477-N3000 from 7207. Stripped, primed, refinished in satin black, includes replated mounting screws. $35 includes standard domestic shipping, international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 07/22/2020 Price $35.00 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert 240Z Master Vac Check Valve Bracket Early style master vac check valve bracket - the thin metal version without the check valve retaining edges. P/N 47477-E4100 to 7206. Stripped, primed, refinished in satin black, includes replated mounting screws. $35 includes standard domestic shipping, international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 07/22/2020 Price $35.00 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert 240Z Fuel Filter Bracket Refurbished 240Z fuel filter bracket. Stripped, primed, refinished in satin black. Includes replated mounting screws. $85, includes standard domestic shipping, international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested, thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 07/22/2020 Price $85.00 Category Parts for Sale

Looks like there should be one on each side. I'm only good for one answer today. ?

I understand - I have that equpiment off my car as well. This bit of plumbing is entirely passive and uses the air flow thru the air filter box to pull excess fuel tank and crankcase vapors so they can be burnt. The connection between the valve and the pipe is a 3-4" piece of hose usually secured with a couple of spring clamps.

Matt - here's a pic of the flow guide valve, slightly diferent versions on each year but essentially the same. It mounts to the inner fender wall beneath the ballast resistor. Check this diagram for the hose routing - one line from the small tube on the crankcase breather pipe, one short hose from the tank vapor line in your pic, one line to the back of the air filter to feed the vapors into the carbs. The valve is #57. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/emission-control-device

I'm not sure what a Euro configuration should look like but this looks like you are missing either the supply line or return line completely. The line running to the left side should be the fuel tank vapor line that connects to the flow guide valve mounted below the coil. The diameter of the line on the right side will clue you as to what is missing - the supply line is significantly larger than the return line. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/fuel-piping

Let it be said the Z car has always been inspirational to so many!

My Matsuo-san story dates back to the 2015 ZCON in Memphis, my first such convention. It was the wash day morning and Matsuo was strolling around the parking lot observing all the cars getting cleaned. He stopped by my car as I was desperately trying to get it dried before water spots could take a set. He began sharing the story of the origins of the hatch strut. He said they took the concept from the canopy strut of the elegant French Mirage aircarft but it was a relatively expensive piece to build. As a designer they had to fight the accountants to move forward with the part. When they suggested the car would benefit from two struts, the bean counters made it clear they would make do with one! He also spoke briefly about the inclusion of carpets for the US market, stating that although they might be able get away with rubber mats in Japan that would not be the case for the US-bound cars and even then they had to settle for less costly looped-style carpet over a higher cost cut pile product. He chuckled about the ongoing battles with the bean counters throughout the entire design and build process. He was indeed a wonderful and entertaining personality and we are all so very fortunate to have had him in our Z car history.