S30Driver

I'll be up for the show, the mini meet, the burger, & to check out Tyler's new bumper. Hope the weather is decent.

Put in all new injector seals / o-rings to cure a small vacuum leak from #1 & 2. Fairly simple job with the Palnet fuel rail. (seals were $4.58, enough for 8 injectors) Also did a Seafoam treatment & installed a fresh set of NGK plugs.

I'm guessing Dave is thinking of Caig DeoxITThe D series is probably right for this application. Can't go wrong with this brand of contact cleaner...

It looks like this .... Unplug the connector, use compressed air to blow out any moisture in both the connectoor & the TPS itself. The connector boot is probably cracked and let the water in. Very common problem.

Very nice car! Beautiiful interior, dash looks perfect. From the stance, looks like it has had some suspension work, already lowered. The 49 olds looks great too.

When you checked all visible connections, did that include the fusible links? If not, pull them one at a time, clean them of any oxidation & replace. Also, a vom plugged into the fuse block while you are driving will allow you to monitor the actual voltage when the problem occurs. Might help to narrow down the intermittant problem.

I realize this is an older thread, I have a question for Andrew (Inf) Did the ball moog ball joints install without any issues? Were both units the same? Just got mine from rock auto, one is identical to yours, the other is the "better" moog joint. I assume there is no difference between L & R ball joints.

The stainless tip on my turbo z was almost as much as your whole system (about $90 with tax) you definitely got a great deal. I have the same questions as Mike, hard to tell from the pictures.

On the 77z, the fuel pump should not be on when the ignition switch is in the run position - unless the engine is running. There is a set of contacts in the afm that activate the fuel pump circuit when the flap rotates 8 degrees, this is part of the safety circuit to stop fuel flow in a crash. It does sound like someone has modified the fuel pump wiring or bypassed the contacts. I agree with SteveJ, you need to verify the fuel pressure with a gauge.

Those look great on there Sean. I went with your same choice on tires, very sticky. The $50 dunlop rebate was a nice bonus as well.

Moog ball joints & boots, saved $7.29 ... Thanks!

Thanks Dave. When I did the suspension on my turbo zx, the rear tokico blues came with boots, but not the fronts. Mainly concerned about the fit & quality of the rack boots. I'll keep your spares in mind....

I am getting ready in a couple of weeks to do the suspension on my 77. Have the new Eibach's ready, will order the illumina struts to go with them. This week will order the ball joints, rack boots, strut boots w/bump stops from Rock Auto. I think I'm ok with the Moog K9011 ball joints (pretty well covered in a current thread). Does anyone have experience with the strut & rack boots they sell? (I'm guessing that the tokico illumina's come with no boots) The ones I'm looking at for the struts are KYB SB103 The rack boots are Raybestos 4301010 Any feedback or suggestions appreciated ....

The one you own ...

You might want to re-read the kia sportage thread.... Specifically the comments by zCars & Darrel. Its the aftermarket weatherstrip made by Precision that has the door fitment / door slam problem on S30's. (Typically what black dragon sells) This issue has been well documented on all the zcar sites over the years.

Yes, I need to thank him as well. He did a first class job refurbing my combination switch, works like new, even looks like new! Even the dash lights are brighter. His harness upgrades are on my list for next month as soon as I complete the suspension. Was fun checking out his 240's & 260 as well, beautiful work...

Could be worse, she might have wanted a GTR ....

Car looks great Dave! Amazing turnaround in such a short amount of time. How did the MSA seals fit? Surprised you did not go the kia sportage route on those.

Looking at the fuse block, the top left fuse is 10A for the right headlight, the next one down on the left is 10A for the left headlight. The top right fuse is 15A for the parking / tail lights. Page BE5 of the shop manual. You might want to check the fusible links as well ...

Good idea to refresh the entire clutch hydraulic system. When the slave fails, the master might not be far behind. Curious as too why you did not just drive the car home without the clutch? Just have to use care & patience when shifting and of course have a good battery if you get stuck in traffic. Glad the tow worked out well though.