Zed Head

Did you get the MSD ballast resistor that comes with it and install it also? Looks like the MSD resistor is 0.8 ohms, the stock one looks to be 1.1 to 1.5 ohms. You might have too much resistance on the primary side. Instructions are here - http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Coils/Stock_Replacement/8203_-_Blaster_2_Coil_w/Ballast___Hardware.aspx

I think that everyone who has installed the urethane bushings front and back has run in to this problem. Here's a few things I've learned: - It's easier to get the nut and washer on the rod with the car on the ground. It's very difficult when the wheel is hanging and you're underneath it. Get the front one on and the back one, then drop the car and work from behind the wheel to get the washer and nut on. BUT- many people recommend that you only run the new urethane on the front where it can take the forward braking loads. Leave the stock rubber on the back. This will take the side load off of the tip of the rod and avoid breakage. BUT - many who have changed all of the bushing, including the front control arm bushings, have not had a problem with rod breakage. It seems to be a combination of the stiff TC bushings with the loose rubber control arm bushings that breaks the rod. I broke one and I only had the TC bushings front and back but had not changed the control arm bushings. Things to think about.

I would download the 76, 77 or 78 FSM (the 77 FSM downloads as one big file, 76 and 78 downloads as chapters, easier to use and the systems are similar) and read the Engine Fuel section. Then you'll understand how the EFI works and what is necessary to do the transplant. You''ll need the ECU and the AFM and the EFI wiring harness. You can try to transplant everything or do some of your own wiring. But read the FSM section first, it's very well-written and very informative. You'll need the knowledge anyway to get things right afterward.

FastWoman wrote something up a while ago - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?35588-Upgrade-from-fusible-links-to-circuit-breakers/page2&highlight=maxi-fuse

The valve in the AAR is a disc that slides perpendicular to the air flow. So there's really no reason for it to be affected by throttle opening, intake vacuum or RPM. What you think is the AAR working is probably something else. What happens if you press the throttle closed after you get it to hold at 1300? If it goes back down that would be a sign of a sticking throttle, maybe some gunk on the throttle body plate. The BCDD uses engine vacuum to open a passage to allow more air past the throttle body. So it could be affected by intake vacuum. You might have a problem internal to the BCDD (maybe a stuck solenoid since that is what is supposed to be activated by an amplified signal from the speedometer), causing the diaphragm to stick, letting air past the throttle body. Take the vacuum line off of the BCDD and see if that affects anything. That will remove the vacuum that opens the valve, I believe. I'm not 100% clear on the BCDD operation, but that might tell you something.

The half-shaft u-joints are replaceable on all years. The joints are not like US joints though, with a retaining clip on the outside of the bearing cup. The retaining clips are on the inside, riding in a groove in the cup. Some people miss that and try to force them out, destroying the yoke in the process. The clips will fly out, seeking eyeballs or distance when removed. The 240Z and early 260Z u-joints are replaceable in the propeller shaft (what Nissan calls the main drive-shaft). They went to the staked in u-joints for the stout-bodied, big bumper cars apparently. I might be off on the years, but I know the early ones were replaceable. It would be worthwhile to crawl under the car with a strong light and a screwdriver and pry the joints around. It's hard to see a loose one otherwise. Look for dry seals and rust around the edge of the bearing cup. The Nissan joints are very well made and very tight and will last a long time unless they dry out. An old Nissan joint is probably better than a new aftermarket joint, in my opinion. There are six u-joints total, so a full replacement of all can be expensive. While you're under there, get some leverage under the nose of the diff and see how far up you can move it. If it 's easy to move around, it's probably bad. After 40 years, it's probably bad anyway.

What about the TPS not making its throttle closed contact? No idle enrichment "increment" (Blue's attached diagram in Post #16, #2). It's been the culprit for rich running on the full enrichment end, I wonder how much fuel would be missing if it didn't make contact on the idle end.

You could look for the holes in the hatch, from the inside, where the "Five Speed" (or "5 Speed", thought it was the numeral?) insignia would have been mounted. At least you'd know it came with the insignia.

There does not appear to be an easy solution to the "hot start" problem, probably because there is not a firm idea of just what causes the problem. The factory's addition of an injector cooling fan, plus the symptoms of the problem, point toward hot injectors as the source. You might retrofit a ZX cooling fan on to your 77. Get the temperature switch with it if you pick one up.

Can't you just say what you're paying on the forum? I see old brake drums all the time (just saw a pair this morning) that I might pick up and ship your way, to save them from the smelter, for a few extra dollars.

What are the "issues"? The needle doesn't move or it's jumping around or it hangs at high RPM? These are fairly typical tachometer problems. The wire most likely to get disturbed outside of the dash area, is the blue wire from the coil. Is the car still running the original EFI? And stock ignition system? All important factors.

From a standing start? Every gear shift? Is the engine even running? An electrical jolt? Just kidding. Diff mount is the first thing that comes to mind.

Did not know that. I knew the numbers were useless for determining 4 or 5 speed, but didn't know they had date information. Thanks for the insight. Wish I had looked at mine before I installed it... Went out and looked at my ZX 5 speed (came out of a 1981 ZX but has 1980 ratios), easier to see than I thought, and it has 7409303. It's definitely a ZX body, with the speedo hold down bolt at 6 o'clock. Looked at the various transmissions I've collected (kind of embarrassing) "1980" 280ZX (above) - 7409303 Original (as far as I can tell) 1976 280Z 4 speed - 7106146 1978 280Z 5 speed - 7128997 1983 280ZX (speedo bolt down) - 7X64820 Blown up ZX 5 speed year unknown - 7X64845 Edit - those really are Xs in the strings above, not illegible numbers. Just observations. So I'm back to not seeing any information in these numbers. Maybe Nissan stockpiled a boatload of bellhousings and the numbers show when they were made.

The 5 speed was introduced as an option in 1977 as I understand it. Not sure what year your 280 is. I don't think you can tell if the transmission is original or not. If the interface between the engine and transmission looks factory fresh, you might think that it's never been removed. That would be a sign anyway. Otherwise, the numbers on the transmission are apparently irrelevant to anything.

You don't seem to be getting it. This forum isn't here to do WORK for anyone who shows up and asks a question. Your writing style is like having a guy walk up to you in the middle of the street, demanding help, but speaking in a way that can barely be understood. After a few attempts to understand, all you can do is wish the person luck and walk away. Just unload it "as is". Even if you get it running, it will take a lot more work to get it running well. Now back to more interesting threads, from people who put some effort in to communicating.

The engine might still have the high flow 265 cc/min turbo injectors. If it does, the 77 ECU will be dumping too much gas, since it is designed for the 188 cc/min NA injectors. You might be able find some stock injectors at a wrecking yard that will get you by, if that is the case.

what is the car doing now in your first post you said you dont know where the fusible links are now you say that you have replaced some do the lights still go on when you try to start it? if they do then you have a short somewhere you need to find that is what i would look for good luck.

Look at the pictures on the front page here to see how the Porsches do it. More lift! http://rothsport-racing.com/

I must have ESP... Yes, everything on that site is kind of expensive. But at least you have the list of parts that are typically replaced. Take that list and use this site to get part numbers - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/PowerTrain/DifferentialGear/R180/tabid/1726/Default.aspx Then go to this site and put the number in the search box to see if it's available and get a price (I put a sample up of the pinion bearing) - http://www.courtesyparts.com/bearing-ba-p-351811.html You can order from the site or by phone, they're very professional and will get you the parts if available. Or, you could get the bearing part numbers directly off of the bearings and cross-reference them or buy them directly from a bearing supply house, like the one jmortensen suggested. The Courtesy Nissan bearing prices aren't terribly high though and you'll get factory spec. bearings. Here's the other pinion bearing, you can see why the kit from zcarsource is so expensive - http://www.courtesyparts.com/bearing-pi-p-350552.html Have you checked cheapest shipping available for a 70? lb chunk of iron? I got $238 using these guys - https://www.ipsparcel.com/rate.cfm

I also. 1976 with no EGR.

Should be fairly easy to find using Google and the internet, or even a few simple searches on this forum. Lots of pictures and descriptions out there. You could also post a picture of the speedometer cable area on the transmission (HINT) in your thread. More responses likely.

Hey, just came across this rebuild kit on zcarsource - http://www.zcarsource.com/differential-rebuild-kit-r-180-new_8_52720_65984.html Also, some individual parts listed - http://www.zcarsource.com/r-180-differential-parts_8_52720.html

Search the word "reddat".

I read an article in one of the car magazines years ago about a 67 Malibu turned in to a fast track car. The owner adjusted his anti-sway bar settings to lift the front wheel for photos, but he didn't race it that way. There was commentary in the article about how the suspension was so tunable that the owner asked the photographer how high he wanted the wheel for the shot. So I would guess sway bar adjustments as a possible solution but I'm sure the track guys will know more. Edit - by the way, you didn't say if you wanted more lift or less. Looks cooler with more...

Have you tested fuel pressure, and resistance on the WTS circuit?