Zed Head

I don't think that the test I described is written up in the usual places. And what you're writing doesn't tell much, but does fit a dirty AFM switch. The 10 volts is normal. The starter drops the voltage as it uses amps. You can test the AFM contact switch at the AFM, or at the EFI relay with an ohm-meter, but the easiest most direct test is to take the black cover off of the side of the AFM, or take the inlet hose off, turn the key to On/Run, then move the AFM vane. If you have the cover off and there is power to the AFM contacts you might actually see a tiny spark. The contacts look like a tiny set of distributor points and are actuated by a bent rod when the AFM vane moves. It's very simple. All it takes is a piece of hair or dust to hold the contacts open. Probably why Nissan changed the system. I would do that test. You'll know more than you do now. Forgot to say - I have cleaned the contacts in an AFM with the striking pad from a book of matches. Never did figure out what exactly was blocking it.

I think that the ZX uses a different form. The Z advance control won't fit on the ZX distributor. That's a nice item though. Is there similar for the ZX distributors?

If you run a torch over the outside metal around the bushing rubber it will get hot enough to degrade and soften. It can then be pushed out, leaving a few pieces of rubber to scrape away. No need for the smoky fire, although it does look like fun. Much cleaner too.

I was wondering about the TSB also. It would be cool to see some official Nissan communications on the subject. It seems odd to use the standard tip on the dished piston and the projected on the flat. Just initial gut feel. They are different heads though, N42 and N47 vs. P79. But if Nissan realized a problem later on, that would be interesting.

Kind of sounds more like the AFM contacts, if he's only losing power to the pump. If it was the ignition switch he'd lose all power. Details on the "checks" and whether or not this is a new problem on a car that was running or a problem that came with the car would help. The easy way to check the AFM contacts is to turn the key on and move the AFM vane. The pump should get power. If it's quiet, you'll hear it running. I've had my AFM contracts get dirty and kill power to the pump. The engine would only start, run for a few seconds, then die.

Looks like Nissan Parts Zone sells bonafide Nissan parts, so I would assume that you're okay. Your other post looked like maybe you just used them for parts numbers. Wasn't clear (to me) where you actually bought them. I posted "just in case". Good luck with it.

I thought you might have a comment. I remember you rebuilt yours a year or two ago. How is it working for you?

Not to be a downer but the synchros that are commonly available seem to be of questionable quality. Didn't know you were doing a full rebuild or I would have posted the link below. There's a guy on Hybridz who did extensive work on these transmissions, for racing, and destroyed many synchros in the process. I think that he ended up using Nissan factory synchros. I can post the link if you'd like, it's multiple pages. May not change anything but worth reading - http://www.datsunstore.com/transmission-manual-shift-c-202_216_243_271.html?page=2&sort=2a http://www.datsunstore.com/syncro-ring-through-7083-p-1458.html

You'll probably want to gap the plugs wider to take advantage of the high energy ignition module. So the -11 is the way to go since it's prebent to .040" gap. P is for projected tip and it's not really clear why Nissan jumped around on that specification. People have their theories but the shape of the combustion chamber is probably what matters most. Can't really go wrong using the factory spec. If your engine used a P tip, use a P tip. New wires are a good idea since you'll have more voltage with the wider plug gap. It's the -11 that's probably giving you problems on the fitment. -11 is prebent for the .040" gap. These would not work with points well but you don't have points any more. I'd use the BPR6ES-11.

These two sites should get you there. The transmissions used the same seals for the 280ZX's for sure, even up in to the 1990's cars (71C transmissions) I believe. Might have to buy a few and read the fine print though to make sure you get made in "not China or Mexico". http://www.showmetheparts.com/timken/ http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunFairladyZIndex/PowerTrain/TransmissionCase/5Speed/tabid/1702/Default.aspx

You might jack the car up and see how far the wheel drops. The wheel will drop to the bottom of the shock's travel. If the shock is topped out the wheel won't drop much at all, just any compression of the insulator. I think that's right...

If you click through to the original listing it says $15,600 does not meet the reserve. Watch for future relisting. 1971 Datsun Z-Series AMAZING FULLY RESOTRED AND UPGRADED DATSUN 240 Z Current bid:US $15,600.00Reserve not met[ 14 bids ]

If you browse around the site you'll see that many Z's that are sold to new owners have not been well-maintained. I would drive my 76 280Z in the cold winter of Chicago, but I've got it back in to good shape. There's no way to know what you're dealing with until you have it in your possession. The EFI systems are definitely designed to handle cold weather though, with cold start enrichment and temperature compensation from the computer and the extra gas from the CSV during starting. Handling is a different issue. If you've only driven front wheel-drive cars, rear wheel-drive can surprise you and get you sideways, especially quickly with a small car like the Z. Besides the fact that it only takes a small bump from one of today's common SUV's to do significant damage to a Z. You might drive fine but the other guy is going to crush your car.

Take a magnet to the body. That looks like a thick body filler layer, that came loose for some reason. Might be signs of damage on or under the headliner, inside, also. If they put body filler there, it could be anywhere. Also, if it's as thick as it looks, that gives a sign about the quality of the work overall. Thick is not good.

There was a thread on Hybridz a year or so ago about the high "American" dyno numbers, started by some Australian guys, I believe. Rebello was the subject. PMC Racing had some comments. Interesting. Did you measure cylinder pressure? It's an indirect look at compression ratio. Detonation is essentially a cylinder pressure issue. Just curious.

You have to follow the power path and count all of the gear teeth, including the main shaft to counter shaft connection. Then do the math. The other way is to turn the input shaft and count the number of revolutions of the output shaft, while 5th gear is engaged. Probably easier. The '80 transmission will turn the output shaft a little more than three quarter (.75) revolution for one input. .773. 81-83 will be almost right at 3/4 at .745.

How bad is it? You might just be in the typical rust-removal and seal-coating regime. The typical POR-15 or Eastwood treatment. http://www.eastwood.com/paints/rust-solutions.html?SRCCODE=GA200110&device=c&matchtype=b&network=g&creative=56087209260&gclid=CLGNyOuXqMICFUeEfgod9hcA6A

Tried to stop you.... The GC site says 0 to 2.5 inch range of change. Something seems off unless the Eibach springs alone start at a lower point. Since you have the adjustable part, maybe a different set of springs, taller, will get you where you want to be. I don't see the big aluminum UFO looking things at the tops of the springs in your pictures of the kit, above, Post #41 . Are they replaced with the camber pieces? That looks like ~ 1.5" right there. http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=62/CA=27 The ad copy seems to imply that the camber plates are for stock springs. Maybe just a big oversight on GC's part, two independently designed products. They don't even show the coilover kit as a related item on the web page, or vice versa. Just a T-shirt. http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=151/CA=191

Neither hole enters the cover. One is blind and one is through to outside. And there's not much in the distributor shaft hole to worry about, since you'll just be running a tap. They can't be that buggered up that they need re-drilling, tapping and inserting. A greased tap should catch all of any fine aluminum shavings. But I would first do what Blue says, on the bolts. You might have a fine thread in a coarse hole or vice-versa. If you're super-worried though you could turn the engine upside down so the chips fall away from the engine.

Full disclosure - I have one of the flat K&N filters on my Pathfinder. There is a certain freeway hill nearby that I take on a regular basis and I wanted to see if I could get an extra HP or two to help haul the SUV's mass up the hill without having to shift down in to fourth. It seemed to help so I left it in there. The engine is high mileage anyway so the extra dirt probably just slides by the rings in to the crankcase for the oil filter to clear out.

I don't want to be a Zeddy Downer but if the car and engine were running great, and the LED installation or the other things caused the VR failure, it seems like there would have been some smoke and/or sparks during the process. Just saying, the smoking gun/wire is missing. And, the cause of the VR failure may still be in place in the wiring. You might install and immediately burn up a new regulator. Might check those VR wires for shorts to ground. Also not clear what alternator output normal means. If that's the case, that means the VR is working. Sometimes the "obvious" causes aren't.

I think that many of the vacuum advance canisters that come with rebuilt distributors don't have as much advance as the factory units. They seem to have settled on a mid-range advance so that they can use one part for many applications. If you get on to a parts store site you'll see that they use the same distributor and canister for the whole range of 280ZX years. Probably worthwhile to check first. The vacuum advance canister may not match the distributor part number. If the distributor is on the engine and you have a timing light, you can check the full vacuum advance by setting initial timing to a low number (so that the mark will still be on the scale), like 0 or 5, then attaching the vacuum advance hose directly to the intake manifold (not ported vacuum). Timing will jump to the maximum vacuum advance. Do the math and you'll know what you have. If you have a dial-back light, you don't need to reset initial/static timing. Or if you want to know even more, you can connect a gauged vacuum source to determine when the advance starts and when it is full. You might need to adjust the idle speed down if you try this to make sure you're not getting some mechanical also, when the idle speed increases. I've also found that several of my 280Z distributors have more mechanical advance than they are supposed to. It's common to see 10.5 and 11 degree weights in a 280Z distributor. 21 and 22 degrees. Just something to be aware of.

Whatever it is, it looks like it's been broken for quite a while. The other half of the fuse holder and its plastic base are gone. I notice many mentions of "heat glass" in the various wiring schematics. Is that Datsun-speak for fuse? Maybe one of the heat glass parts offers a clue. Since it's been broken, even with a wire attached, it may not have had any function. Probably a red herring.

Came across an interesting thing on youtube and couldn't find a better place to post it. Let me know if I'm causing problems. Comment #8 says 100% money back even after two years - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgnW-7w6pgmMS_avX_5t-YA

Could be that you have a weak battery and an alternator that is not charging. I would check voltage at the battery with the engine off, then with it on. The simplest test to see if the alternator is charging. It may be that he accidentally disconnected the L wire to your voltage regulator. No L, no charge. Whatever the reason, if you determine the alternator is not charging, make sure the VR has what it needs to work right before you replace either the VR or the alt. What does your ammeter show before and after the engine is running? Another tool to use, if you don't have a handheld voltmeter, although not as accurate.