Zed Head

The 240Z's seem to have less space between diff and hub than 280Z's. 240Z people often have binding problem with u-joint halfshafts when they swap an R200 in, even though the 280Z's come with the R200 stock. The rear hubs must be thicker on the 240Z's. Beware.

I don't think a blown HG always leaks coolant in to the cylinders. But I think that if it's leaking combustion gases in to the cooling system that's easy to diagnose. I almost did the same thing you're doing. I had a 240Z picked out in California and was negotiating with the seller to pick it up. I was going to fly down and drive it back to Portland. The seller changed her mind though and I didn't get the chance. You might just have a bad gauge. If you're lucky. Good luck.

Ouch. Two hours is about Des Moines, isn't it? He has a situation. So, cruising on the freeway and the temperature shoots up? Not good. Mine did that once but it was because a heater hose split. Pretty obvious. If it went two hours, you'd think the radiator and shrouding and air flow were sufficient. Check the radiator for a plastic bag or large bird blocking air flow. Seems more likely that the head gasket is leaking tough, doesn't it?

Never realized a mistake could bring such joy. I feel like an ignorant slut.

The only arcs on a car should never be seen. Spark plugs, relays, switches. Are the arcs so big that you can see the flash from the driver's seat? That's a lot of arc.

If I read this right you're still driving the car even though it constantly "overheats". Have you verified the temperature? Maybe it's a bad gauge. How long have you had the car? If it's been fine for years then had this problem all of a sudden then a broken/malfunctioning part seems likely. The current system used to work. If it's a brand new setup then modifications might be needed.

Never mind. The point has been made, and amplified. Too bad, it was a simple question. What does legitimate mean, in the context of fixing a radiator? That's all there is to it.

Nothing.

Oh well, it was fun to do, and cheap. Good thing I was dumb or I never would have tried it. Any chance they can test fine cold but fail when current starts flowing? Edit - the main reason I even considered this was because I heard an interesting piece on NPR about how the development of transistors that could handle high voltage, or maybe it was current, allowed the development of electronic ignition. So I had transistor failure in mind. Seemed to fit the symptoms, with constant current through the (damaged) transistor causing the injectors to stay open.

Just to be clear, I'm a materials kind of guy. It's all just what it is. Metal, plastic, wood. Datsun used adhesives and sealants on the cars. They used brazing and welding. They didn't use wood but they did use plant-based materials, I think. So, we just need to define the rules, Qualifying the statement would have been appropriate. If you want to be like original then 3 rows and shrouds and JB Weld are all illegitimate. That's why it felt funny. They're all bad, unless the rules are redefined.

I'll just go to the basics. It's from Google though. So I don't know if it's legitimate. le·git·i·mate adjective ləˈjidəmət/ 1. conforming to the law or to rules. "his claims to legitimate authority" synonyms:legal, lawful, licit, legalized, authorized, permitted, permissible, allowable, allowed,admissible, sanctioned, approved, licensed, statutory, constitutional; More

What's funny is, that the broken bond is apparently a sign of originality. So, with enough pub, could be a selling point for an early 240Z. CL ads - "broken right radiator braze - original radiator!"

The point was - define legitimate. It's a vague dimensionless hard to define word. What do you mean?

Only commenting 'cause this post gave me a funny feeling. What is "legitimate"? One could argue that adding a row to the radiator is not. Or a shroud, if it didn't come with one in that year. If it's okay as long as it looks right, then JB Weld fits, because you can make it look right. JB Weld is just an adhesive, no different really than a brazed fix, if done properly. "Right" is what works. It's just a radiator.

I have an adjustable FPR and an adjustable "tweak" on my coolant temperature sensor circuit and I find that I can't get a great air-fuel mix across the full range of activity. I can tune it for part-throttle mid-range, clean-smelling exhaust at throttle lift, but I get a small miss at full throttle. If I add fuel the full throttle response is great but I get a little bt of gassy smell cruising around town, coming to the lights. The newer, like 80's to 90's EFI systems with O2 sensors and lower RPM fuel cut might solve that. Back in the 70's when all cars stank, 90 percent had carbs, and people couldn't smell them through their cigarette smoke ruined noses anyway, these 280Z EFI systems were probably considered super-clean. Forgot to say that I also have non-spec. injectors so not comparable directly to the stock system. But I've been trying to get the perfect tune forever. Very difficult.

Since this topic is current and because I mention my bad 1978 ECU and how I "fixed" it occasionally, I dug around on the internet for a transistor test and ran it on the two old 1978 ECU transistors. Which I kept, for future study. I know very little about electronics. I remember learning about P's and N's and various other things but never had need to use the information so it has rusted away in the back of my brain. I'll just put these test results here in case somebody that knows gets bored. Fluke 115, diode setting. NEC D411A M74 transistor markings. Two leads, collector is case. This procedure, because it sounded authoritative - http://www.vetco.net/blog/?p=184 These results. Values in parens are what "should" be found. Seems weird that both transistors would fail at exactly the same time. Considering manufacturing technology, not too surprising that they fail the same way though. If these numbers actually mean a fail. They might be fine. The + or - is the probe used. I ran the same tests on a Radio Shack 2N3055 type, NPN and it passed all tests. Posting for the record, no idea of value, not my league or my game. Maybe I'll take my ignition module transistor out and test it if there's meaning here. B+ --- E- .660, .665 (.45 - .9) B+ --- C- .561, .559 (.45 - .9) E+ --- B- 1.2, 1.2 (OL) C+ --- B- OL, OL (OL) C+ --- E- OL, OL, (OL)

Maaann, I saved that picture and blew it up but didn't know what I was looking at. Good eye. I still see some flags but I've reached my negativity quota for the day.

One last thing. I've seen a few MFI Mercedes Benz systems. Aren't the high pressure lines metal? The hose to the mechanical pump might be rubber, but I think that final distribution lines are metal tube. Got this picture from Patcon's link. Porsche 911.

The 8mm is smooth. You can get that at your local parts store. As far as quality, what they've done is move the fibers to inside the body of the hose wall. And they added a fluoropolymer coating inside for gasoline and ethanol resistance. That repro hose is probably of lower quality for today's usages. When I said "tight" I meant "probably won't fit". Sorry to be so full of negative news. Good luck.

But notice how they distinguished their product from common "poly". Not all poly's are the same. Somebody noticed and seems to be trying to meet a need. " Whiteline Plus bushings provide the softness needed for street driven, low vibration, noise and harshness characteristics, while displaying extreme abrasion, tear and cut resistance, and near-zero compression set at a lower durometer reading of 70-80 (versus most poly bushings 100+ rating). In addition, Whiteline Plus polyurethane bushings are able to be bonded directly to the metal shell, which provide a method of flow control giving the bushing the characteristics of soft ride while on smooth roads, and when under cornering pressure cause the bushing to become firmer for improved suspension performance. "

Pretty sure the Datsun EFI hose is 8mm. 7mm will be tight. The ad copy doesn't say it's used as high pressure hose either, to be sure. MFI systems have vacuum and vent lines too. Just saying... Here's their 8mm fuel hose. Have to say that most shops give the pressure rating. Not a great web page. http://www.partsklassik.com/p-306-8-mm-smooth-fuel-hose.aspx 5/16" is the non-metric analog, n case you search around the internet other options.

You saw that the guy on zcar had a bad ECU after all? http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/396890-280z-troubles-again-8.html#post2668378 I just took my bad 76 ignition module apart. The area under the transistor looks cooked, along with a component or two nearby. Would be nice to know how these things really fail. This one would repeatably fail after revving to over ~3000 RPM. Might be a good test case. Who knows, there might a $3 fix instead of going to ZX or HEI modules.

The VIN only shows on the Salem ad, not your original Multnomah County ad. He might just be a newbie to internet sales, hence the first attempt with the old-school soap on the windshield. I think he's only changed the ad once, probably after looking around the CL ads. Looks like a nice car. Somebody might travel for that one.

The VIN is 3211, it's on the upper right of the CL ad. The one I posted. He missed it in the other.

Something weird going on. Could be the old bait and switch. I'm a cynic at heart, can't help it. http://salem.craigslist.org/cto/5774183394.html