Zed Head

I had the same problem a couple days ago and it turned out they were actually loading completely. They were either displaying before they were done loading or they were not displaying correctly the first time.

Here it is

Someone had a similar problem recently and it was a giant vacuum leak. I'd find the thread and post a link but I can barely do anything on the site recently, it's very slow. Good luck.

Deleted. A waste of time, and just locks in the bad stuff.

The factory cap is not a vent. It lets air in, not out. That's another reason that zKars' suggestion is probably on target. Your new cap is the wrong solution to your other problem. Besides air coming out around the filler entrance, air also escapes through the vent hose up to the charcoal canister in the engine bay. Sounds like your venting system is screwed up.

You have the unleaded style, with a little flap that the gas nozzle pushes open. But air should vent out above the gas nozzle as fuel enters. Poke the little flap open with a screwdriver and take a look. The sun is at a good angle in your picture. Take a closeup with the little flap open if you can, might be easier to blow up a picture to see something.

You have to attach them or provide a youtube link.

There are two transmissions in the CL ad, a 4 speed and a 5 speed. Can't believe how prices are rising. I'll have a gold mine in my garage pretty soon. Hoarding might pay off.

Venting problems do sound likely if you have the unleaded "shutter". But even most shutters have vent holes built in to them. Somebody with a 77 or 78 filler style would know better. On my 76 you can look directly down and see your reflection in a pool of gasoline in the tank.

Sounds like something is blocking your filler hose. The hose is big, you should be able to see all the way down and in to the tank, from the top, in bright sun or with a flashlight (edit - actually this might be harder to do on a 77 than a 76). You should also be able to poke a long skinny rod or stick down in to the tank also. Could be that a PO has done something weird to your filler hose, maybe got a kink in it. When filing the fuel should drop directly n to the tank, no obstructions at all, if the filler hose is properly attached. You can also take off the inner panel and see the hose from the inside of the car. That's where some people get gas fumes from, leaks in the filler hose, inside the cabin.

Most of the reading I've done about vapor lock, some before I ever had a Z, was about the line before the fuel pump. The pump can't pull vapor so keeping it liquid before the pump was important. The link that Mark provided describes percolation. Which is a different problem. For the EFI systems it seems like hot injector bodies is the problem. Hence the fans and other remedies from other manufacturers. Your problem of not starting after several days might be related to fuel volatility. We all assume that gas is gas and it's been the same over the years but in reality, there are no regulations about what the manufacturers can sell as gasoline, as far as I can tell. The manufacturers have an agreement but it's all about keeping the whole big giant automotive machine going. My EFI engine starts best if I give it a few starting revolutions to get some squirts, then let it sit for 10 or so seconds so the fuel can vaporize. I don't know if you can work up a similar routine for carbs but maybe....

The blower might help. Odd that the nozzles appear to point directly at each carb. Could be that they designed it for carbs, then switched to EFI, then finally broke it out for the ZX's. Wouldn't be surprised if they had all of the tooling ready to go for carbs but avoided implementing it.

Did you get one of the old timey mechanical VR's? Or sold-state? From Rock Auto? I don't see that anyone measured voltage at the AC compressor power wire. That would be good to do. The compressor clutch grounds through the mounting points, apparently, actuation comes when power is applied through the wire. There's two relays involved. But you can start at the end of the line and work back. 2nd edit - I had wrote something about the blower motor then second-guessed myself. but it looks like the blower motor is in series in the circuit that actuates the second relay. It's an interesting diagram. Still, test at the end and work backward.

It does look like they covered all of the bases though. Tach problems, wiring diagrams, etc. All of the issues that people report when working the MSD box. Looks too new to get much feedback though. Good luck. Weird that they started a separate web site for it though. moreignition.com? What does that mean? http://www.moreignition.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/0018-008813.pdf

Found it - http://www.moreignition.com/ They seem to be really focused on a flashy presentation, without a lot of real-world data. It's just another CD box, with some tweaks to cover the perceived weaknesses of MSD's box. Multiple spark all the way to redline. But over a 20 degree span. Shiny ignition box, two color options, 6061-T6 aluminum (irrelevant to ignition performance). It will look nice, but you might be a beta-tester.

Never heard of it. How about a link?

You could probably rig up a bluetooth controlled relay actuated by one of the new thumbprint controlled phones. Dedicate a phone to the car, with its own USB charging cable and permanent mount, and you've got thumbprint security.

When adjusting toe you can do both sides at the same time, same direction, same amount, without losing the centering of the wheel. Addendum to comment above.

Thanks, I'll try that. Some day. Now if I could figure out how to forward a text message that would be great too. I could probably find instructions somewhere out there but looking for them makes me feel like I'm falling in to the "super phone that does everything" mind trap...

utah, if you start a New Topic, we can help you troubleshoot. It's what we live for, sitting out here staring at out monitors, hoping for problems. Seriously though, if you buy that relay and get it to plug in, that would be good to know. Even if the engine still doesn't run.

It showed up properly when I got back in to CZCC. It didn't show the whole picture before though. I'm having some weird issues with the site. I signed in from a phone just now and I can't figure out how to sign out. I'm permanently signed in, apparently. This post is from my computer though, because there's no cut and paste option on Android, as far as I can tell. The super phones aren't that super. I had to write in Notepad here while I waited to be able to sign in. Gotta be the NSA. On the double relay - Wouldn't be surprised if those plastic pillars on the side get in the way of the Nissan plugs. Could be why it won't "work". Cut them off and it should. That might be a significant find for future relay seekers. We've overlooked the basic question we usually ask though - are you sure it's the relay that's the problem? Might be spending on the wrong part.

I just replied to a PM from utah. The images on Amazon look almost identical pin-wise, to the Nissan part. But the web sites all say it's for Volkswagen, and some say it won't work for a 280Z. https://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-203-0053-Relay/dp/B000CB0DK4 Anybody want to compare pins? Trying to attach an image but I'm having CZCC web site problems. This is from Amazon. It's all that shows, CZCC says it's done loading. Maybe someone else can get it loaded.

This Nissan guide says that the second one is for a 1983 Turbo. You could browse through the FSM EFEC sections and see what might be different. The ZX's got so packed with emissions devices, it's hard to say what might have changed. I would open the wiring diagrams for the EFEC systems and compare. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/

Hey, Jai had the periodic dimming of gauge lights recently with her Redbird and after looking at the diagram I realize that a short after the flasher, or at the Hazard switch on its flasher circuit, could cause the flasher to actuate without being connected to any lights and without burning the link, because of the flasher resistance.. What do y'all think of that? I'm not sure where the turn signal flasher is but it might have the same possibility.

site just sold a car, he has space. KY is close to AL, I believe. Put Kentucky in the title. My @ thing doesn't work anymore, or I'd @ some people. @ @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@. @