Zed Head

Sounds like something is blocking your filler hose. The hose is big, you should be able to see all the way down and in to the tank, from the top, in bright sun or with a flashlight (edit - actually this might be harder to do on a 77 than a 76). You should also be able to poke a long skinny rod or stick down in to the tank also. Could be that a PO has done something weird to your filler hose, maybe got a kink in it. When filing the fuel should drop directly n to the tank, no obstructions at all, if the filler hose is properly attached. You can also take off the inner panel and see the hose from the inside of the car. That's where some people get gas fumes from, leaks in the filler hose, inside the cabin.

Most of the reading I've done about vapor lock, some before I ever had a Z, was about the line before the fuel pump. The pump can't pull vapor so keeping it liquid before the pump was important. The link that Mark provided describes percolation. Which is a different problem. For the EFI systems it seems like hot injector bodies is the problem. Hence the fans and other remedies from other manufacturers. Your problem of not starting after several days might be related to fuel volatility. We all assume that gas is gas and it's been the same over the years but in reality, there are no regulations about what the manufacturers can sell as gasoline, as far as I can tell. The manufacturers have an agreement but it's all about keeping the whole big giant automotive machine going. My EFI engine starts best if I give it a few starting revolutions to get some squirts, then let it sit for 10 or so seconds so the fuel can vaporize. I don't know if you can work up a similar routine for carbs but maybe....

The blower might help. Odd that the nozzles appear to point directly at each carb. Could be that they designed it for carbs, then switched to EFI, then finally broke it out for the ZX's. Wouldn't be surprised if they had all of the tooling ready to go for carbs but avoided implementing it.

Did you get one of the old timey mechanical VR's? Or sold-state? From Rock Auto? I don't see that anyone measured voltage at the AC compressor power wire. That would be good to do. The compressor clutch grounds through the mounting points, apparently, actuation comes when power is applied through the wire. There's two relays involved. But you can start at the end of the line and work back. 2nd edit - I had wrote something about the blower motor then second-guessed myself. but it looks like the blower motor is in series in the circuit that actuates the second relay. It's an interesting diagram. Still, test at the end and work backward.

It does look like they covered all of the bases though. Tach problems, wiring diagrams, etc. All of the issues that people report when working the MSD box. Looks too new to get much feedback though. Good luck. Weird that they started a separate web site for it though. moreignition.com? What does that mean? http://www.moreignition.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/0018-008813.pdf

Found it - http://www.moreignition.com/ They seem to be really focused on a flashy presentation, without a lot of real-world data. It's just another CD box, with some tweaks to cover the perceived weaknesses of MSD's box. Multiple spark all the way to redline. But over a 20 degree span. Shiny ignition box, two color options, 6061-T6 aluminum (irrelevant to ignition performance). It will look nice, but you might be a beta-tester.

Never heard of it. How about a link?

You could probably rig up a bluetooth controlled relay actuated by one of the new thumbprint controlled phones. Dedicate a phone to the car, with its own USB charging cable and permanent mount, and you've got thumbprint security.

When adjusting toe you can do both sides at the same time, same direction, same amount, without losing the centering of the wheel. Addendum to comment above.

Thanks, I'll try that. Some day. Now if I could figure out how to forward a text message that would be great too. I could probably find instructions somewhere out there but looking for them makes me feel like I'm falling in to the "super phone that does everything" mind trap...

utah, if you start a New Topic, we can help you troubleshoot. It's what we live for, sitting out here staring at out monitors, hoping for problems. Seriously though, if you buy that relay and get it to plug in, that would be good to know. Even if the engine still doesn't run.

It showed up properly when I got back in to CZCC. It didn't show the whole picture before though. I'm having some weird issues with the site. I signed in from a phone just now and I can't figure out how to sign out. I'm permanently signed in, apparently. This post is from my computer though, because there's no cut and paste option on Android, as far as I can tell. The super phones aren't that super. I had to write in Notepad here while I waited to be able to sign in. Gotta be the NSA. On the double relay - Wouldn't be surprised if those plastic pillars on the side get in the way of the Nissan plugs. Could be why it won't "work". Cut them off and it should. That might be a significant find for future relay seekers. We've overlooked the basic question we usually ask though - are you sure it's the relay that's the problem? Might be spending on the wrong part.

I just replied to a PM from utah. The images on Amazon look almost identical pin-wise, to the Nissan part. But the web sites all say it's for Volkswagen, and some say it won't work for a 280Z. https://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-203-0053-Relay/dp/B000CB0DK4 Anybody want to compare pins? Trying to attach an image but I'm having CZCC web site problems. This is from Amazon. It's all that shows, CZCC says it's done loading. Maybe someone else can get it loaded.

This Nissan guide says that the second one is for a 1983 Turbo. You could browse through the FSM EFEC sections and see what might be different. The ZX's got so packed with emissions devices, it's hard to say what might have changed. I would open the wiring diagrams for the EFEC systems and compare. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/

Hey, Jai had the periodic dimming of gauge lights recently with her Redbird and after looking at the diagram I realize that a short after the flasher, or at the Hazard switch on its flasher circuit, could cause the flasher to actuate without being connected to any lights and without burning the link, because of the flasher resistance.. What do y'all think of that? I'm not sure where the turn signal flasher is but it might have the same possibility.

site just sold a car, he has space. KY is close to AL, I believe. Put Kentucky in the title. My @ thing doesn't work anymore, or I'd @ some people. @ @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@. @

The switch is kind of a mystery. SteveJ and CO have dug in to it. Looks like power starts at a fusible link, passes through the fuse box then a flasher, then to the switch. And in the diagram I attached, I'd guess that the switch needs to be active to get power out to flash the lights. I think that there are other diagrams showing how power is routed through the switch for other functions. Anyway, the power input wire for hazard flashing is green with a blue stripe. Then actuate the switch and green/red and green/black should have power. Search "hazard switch" and their names on the site and you might find some threads. @SteveJ @Captain Obvious

1977 right? Is the switch out now? Hard to tell how deep in to you are or went. You're going to get wiring diagram suggestions.

Are you looking for a local, easy sale, or trying to maximize value? Or do you just want it to go to someone who appreciates it? You're on the right site. There is a whole range of possibilities, from selling it overseas, to selling it to a local that shows up at your doorstep. Is it driveable right now or will it need towing would be one important question. General location also.

Have you been under the valve cover yet? Check lash and cam lobe quality. My first engine had bad valve seals that would seal up if I gave the engine a good romp, but then slowly open up cause a lumpy idle. So I'd get a good idle if I went out and abused it but then it would get lumpy as it cooled back down. It was fun for a while since I had a reason to wind it out. Be careful on the first few drives. People often lost a rocker arm because the valves have gummed up after sitting for years and get stuck. Then the rocker arm pops off and sometimes a retainer. Could be you have a sticky valve right now, who knows.

Both of my engines have always had a slight imbalance (that's what I call it) at idle. I've attributed it to the batch fire nature of the EFI system, with the cylinders getting their fuel at different times of the four cycles.. But I've only had two so not much experience.

Also, the fuse for the pump is the fusible link supplying the fuel pump relay. It's one of brown links, 0.3 mm^2, the smallest. So you could just remove the link itself and put the cover back on, for a short quick theft-proofing. Looks like it supplies power to the air regulator and the pump and the ignition relay.

Here's a chart from a company I've never heard of that felt confident enough to post what look like reasonable numbers. http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/fpspecs.html Edit - realized after posting that the question might be a bit off target. Fuses are designed to protect the wiring, not the device. So, fuses would generally be specified by wire gauge of the power supply wire. Like fusible links were, in the beginning. And fuses are really just fusible links under glass.

Looks like they're not keeping their web page updated. Their eBay ad says they have three. https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=222466640593&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps

SteveJ, you should put the link to the classiczcars Download section in your sig. Keep things in house if you can. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/