Zed Head

That piece on the left in your picture is made of hard plastic. Is that what you're looking for?

This is not the site for you then, by a long shot. Try www.zcar.com you'll get more response.

Edit - this post is blunt, but true I think. No offense. You really do need to learn the details. You're in way over your head. You made it work, boost happens and it probably goes faster, but fine tuning requires detailed understanding. How about your boost controller? Maybe it's on the fritz. Without all of the details of your "turbo" system people can just throw out ideas. But you're not really processing the help you're getting. You just repeated my words back to me on my smog question, but didn't add any details. "FSM smog"? You're going to have to study up on how turbo engine management works, and keep cobbling away on your NA system. We'll throw ideas at you as you give more details though. Nothing good happens after 2 am.

Did you do the work, or buy it that way? There are people here who can add some ideas, but this is "classic" Zcars. com, not what you're running. I don't think that "aftermarket" heads exist for the L6 block, except for Derek's. If you bought one of those you should probably be on hybridz.org. But, back to the the basics - describe the engine details, and how it got that way. Are you running a ZX engine management, or a cobbled 77 EFI system? The stock Nissan turbo, or "aftermarket"? "Smog" means what? Hoses not understood or actual systems described in the Emissions chapter of the FSM? We know a lot about the Nissan made stuff, but once somebody gets in and starts tweaking, it can get weird.

Is your BCDD still attached? They are known for causing idle speed problems. You should put your car and engine details in the first post or your sig. Not clear what you're working with. It might be a 1977 (right?, not 1997) car, but the engine could be a transplant. Plus you have an AFR gauge, which implies that you've done some modifications.

Is it an automatic transmission? With a manual you can just push the clutch pedal. Engine RPM is controlled mainly by air allowed in to the intake manifold. You might have some kind of intake system leak. Automatics have some vacuum actuated mechanisms, that can cause problems.

My 76 has done the same thing in the past. It's either the fluid heating up and expanding or the water pump collapsing the lower hose, reducing overall system volume. The coolant reservoir level will only drop as the engine cools off and a vacuum is created in the coolant system, pulling coolant through the tube attached to the radiator neck. The radiator cap needs to be one designed to work with the reservoir, not an old 1950's cap. And it needs to be working correctly. If the radiator is full now you know there are no air pockets in it. Put the cap on and leave it. Make sure that the hose from the radiator fill neck to the reservoir is tightly sealed at both ends and has no pinholes, otherwise the system will suck in air instead of coolant from the reservoir as it cools down.

Looks good. Worst case, the brass fails (unlikely) and you have to find a steel replacement.

Here's my 1/76 build date car horns. Crusty, no signs of letters. L brackets, "standing" on tabs.

zcardept's ad says it's a high tone horn. And it has an H on it. Might be a clue, don't know.

Can you push the piston in farther, to break the bond? Easier to push it in mechanically first. Once it's loose it probably won't take much to pop it out.

So the horns are the same, but the brackets are different...? The brackets should still be in Saint's car. A picture will show.

zcardepot says that 76-78 used the same horn. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-1976-78-280Z-Horn-High-Tone-OEM-Genuine-NEW-680/222686611201?hash=item33d9280701:g:OlMAAOSwY45UTt1-&vxp=mtr Here's a 78 - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124393-78-280z-project-wps30/ Forgot to say, if you take a picture of what you have it might give someone the initiative to do the same for you.

Describing the problem helps understand it, is what I tell people often. Had to follow my own advice. I found a decent Remy "Gold" unit with about 3/4 left in the brushes, good resistance A to F, and smooth quiet bearings. Had a coupon, only $22 outlaid, with a $7 year-long return period extension. Got some sun, saw a bald eagle harassing the flocks of geese at the wildlife refuge next door...overall, a nice day in the wrecking yard. Got it home and installed and all is back to normal, had 14.5 volts at idle. Then found a couple of places on eBay that sell rebuild kits. $30 for bearings, slip rings, regulator and brushes. I might swap the Ford regulator for the kit's and maybe keep the Ford bearings, depending on quality. But I should be ready for the next go-round, whenever it happens. A good rainy weather project.

There's a drawing in the FSM.

Alright, that was something different. Back to our regular schedule... Thanks for the help. Sunny and 65 out here, so I'll probably go test wrecking yard alternators now that I know what to look for. The good remans cost over $150 at the parts stores.

It goes back to 14.3 when the RPM get low enough. Sometimes even idle wasn't low enough, the light only went off when i was lugging the engine at take-off. But, with Google as my guide, and my $6 eBay service manual, I was able to get it pretty well figured out. Attached some pictures. The only test it failed was resistance across A to F. 3.3 ohms instead of the 5 limit, the "hung brush" test. Wasn't really hung, just gone.

Here's a shot of the test instruction overview. Of course, "S" does not mean Sense. Gotta learn a new language now.

Here's a shot of a typical alternator and regulator. There's a three pin plug with an A, S, and I. A jumper wire from A runs over to the small one pin plug. The back of the regulator has an A and an F terminal with F exposed for testing. Instructions that say "ground here to test" molded right in to it. The manual has a test procedure that illustrates checking the slip ring for grounding, a "hung brush' test using A and F resistance, some loose fuse and connection tests. All pretty interesting but it might just be more direct for me to remove it and take the regulator and brushes off and inspect. Pretty usre it has 75,000 miles on it. Debating...

It's a 2003 Ford F150 with 4.2 liter V6. Service documents are hard to find, I haven't found a wiring diagram yet. Yes, voltage drops to battery voltage. 14.3 at idle...add RPM...12.3...dash light comes on. I'd noticed some odd behavior from the radio noise that reminded me of when my old Nissan alternator crapped out. A day later the battery light started lighting, then going off at stop lights and from standing starts. I'm leaning toward the higher current of higher RPM causing a regulator fault, or bad brushes losing contact with RPM increase. I have a manual with a troubleshooting flow chart to go through that will show something, hopefully. Just happened last night. The truck came from a super dusty environment, so worn internals wouldn't be a surprise. I'll know more when I take it apart. Hoping somebody's seen similar. Even the internet only has two correct examples, with no resolution. Google keeps coming up with the opposite problem, no charge at low RPM, and I don't know how to make Google understand.

I have a charge light coming on my other car, but only at RPM above idle. I checked the system with a meter, and at idle speed voltage is 14.3, but anything above that and it drops to no charge. The reverse of the typical bad regulator or alternator problem. Kind of weird to see. Anybody have any guesses on what might be bad? It's a Ford truck, with the replaceable regulator attached to the back of the generator. There are quite a few videos pit there about replacing the regulator and/or brushes but I'm new to Ford land so don't know what works well. Still leary of remans and Ford truck parts are expensive.

Not sure, but I think I see a hook...

"ingine" several times, and absurd questions? I'm calling troll. Edit - but if you really are that "new" to cars, good luck. Don't mean to be abusive.

Plug wires are placed in backward rotation order in the distributor. It will run, but poorly.

Do you think it will tick when it's covered in oil? I can send the little gear out. Should fit a $6.45 USPS flat rate box, I think. That way it will end up in your mail box instead of porch. Do you want the spacer?