Zed Head

Asking somebody to define their argument is a sign of defeat? Man, you are really out there, swinging at anything that moves. That's a sign of defeat. You don't even care what you hit as you long as you hit something. I don't think that you're even sure what you're arguing for anymore. Can you say, in a few words, what your point is? The position that you think you're defending?

tzag hasn't really even defined his argument. He's windmilling. In the fighting sense, not the other one that shows up on Google (where does that stuff come from?). We should just let it rest.

But thanks for letting me exercise some words...

Here's some paleontology - https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=tIcbWv-yI86cjwOH35vQCA&q=site%3Aclassiczcars.com+cast+impeller+water+pumps&oq=site%3Aclassiczcars.com+cast+impeller+water+pumps&gs_l=psy-ab.3...2920.17724.0.18756.49.48.1.0.0.0.101.1911.47j1.48.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.5.303...0j0i131k1j0i10k1.0.72j6gdoQaMg

You're bloviating. You're not even on-topic, you're just picking things out of thin air and dissembling about your misstatements. The topic that I was posting on is "swapping bodies of a Z car". The straight answer is it's not possible. It just isn't. There are no laws involved.

tzag, you're getting sucked in to the vortex. You talked about "swapping a body in our case" in your post above. There is no swapping bodies in any Z car case. It's not physically possible. Nothing to do with arguing or legality or morals or religion. Just material stuff. Edit, rephrase - There is no frame to swap a body on to.

It's not years, it's miles, or even more specifically, RPM, that matters. But I was just condensing the years of wisdom that have been poured in to forums like this one. People don't like the cast steel impellers. The philosophical discussions have been well-worn and are now petrified, out there on the interwebs. You'll probably be fine. Just saying...most club members would not have bought that pump.

Sorry tzag, but he's right - these are unibody cars, with reinforcing frame-like pieces in certain areas. The "body" is, essentially, the whole car, there is no frame.

The GMB design with the stamped steel impeller is not the desirable one. Generally, people feel that the cast impeller design works better. There are several of those on the site.

My 1976 switch and light worked fine, many times, as I tried to bleed my front brakes in the days after I got my car. Turned out the calipers were on the wrong sides, upside down, and there were big bubbles in both. If I recall correctly, pumping the pedal would cause the light to go out and the front brakes to work. The workout probably added many miles and years to its life.

I left two of the same image in the post as an act of rebellion against the wonky post editing software. But, yes, those are the springs I thought I saw. Maybe the switch tended to get stuck and that's why redesigned it. There's not much to it, no reason to redesign unless there was a problem. Functions are identical.

GMB pumps are available on Rockauto right now. Looks the same as yours.

I see the logic now. They might have added a self-centering mechanism that didn't require a pressure differential in the later revision. Maybe the ramped portion of the valve plunger. Still unclear to me though that the original 72 switch, in good shape, required a reset. Just haven't seen the firm example. Even your anecdote is about broken switches but nothing about resetting a stuck one. If I had one, I'd test it and see what happens. If you can reset it with a small screwdriver you should be able to get it stuck with one. Not really arguing just looking for some solid evidence. Here's the 72 and 76 switches, you can see the ramped area in the 76. It looks like the 72 has a spring to reposition the valve, but it's not clear. The 76 switch might even work in a 72 but then you'd have to wonder about the VIN. Just kidding.

Take some better pictures of the spot. Looks like one of the stamped steel impeller pumps. Nobody really likes them.

Laws are determined by the state, sometimes the county. By people. That's how laws work, they're just written rules, written by people, in this case, for the purpose of assigning ownership. As already mentioned, there are many different laws in the USA. We are not homogeneous. Morality is determined by intent. Intent has not been determined here yet. If the "law" says that you can leave an old VIN ID on a part used on a separate car with its own VIN, then both of your cases are incorrect. The law will have been followed and whoever did it had no apparent intent to "steal" from another person. All they need to do is follow the law. The OP has moved on, apparently, and may or may not be hiding the car for ten years. If he is hiding it then maybe he is committing an amoral act. But, he probably hasn't really though about it, so god might give him a pass. Really though, you're kind of going over the top here. It's still just a car with some numbers attached, and no documents showing which are correct. Bringing the concept of a supreme power in to the discussion is a bit much, and nobody has advocated breaking the law. We're just describing how things are over here in the wild west. This is not England. But, since it's a topic, are the laws in all fo the territories of the UK identical, or are there differences? Might be a good point of reference for you. The OP bought an undefined legal problem and may or may not try to resolve it. Found my example on Wikipedia. We're not so different. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Law_of_the_United_Kingdom

We need to know more about this "bolt buster" induction heater. Is it 120 or 240 volt? Where can you get them?

It doesn't stay there. That's my point. There's nothing holding it there, by design. If you fix the problem and restore the proper pressure to the other side of the switch, the switch moves back to its proper centered position. Like Nissan says.

It might be that the early switches just got gummed up and stuck. But it doesn't seem to be a factory described reset procedure. Short version...

I'm not an expert n the area, just regurgitating knowledge I've consumed, and adding some basics to it. The cam lobe is the area that almost always has wear problems, not the lash pads. Wait a while and you'll probably get some more experienced views. Doesn't seem like you have a major problem though, just minor details to correct.

I think that this might be an urban legend. Maybe country too. Just saying, the later FSM's say otherwise and I had the issue on my 76 and it reset just fine. On top of that, add that it doesn't really make sense to have to reset the switch, since it moves by pressure differential, and it would be surprising if they didn't include this piece of knowledge in the FSM, since they talk about all of the other details. I haven't seen a case where anybody actually had to reset the switch. I think that the light just goes out when you fix the pressure differential. And, to keep piling on, the FSM does say explicitly that the switch should not be disassembled, but replaced. Beside that, I don't see that the brake light is staying on in this case, which is the real clue. You can also check continuity at the switch itself if you're not sure about the wiring. Anyway, just one of those things that bug me. Carry on.

@Matthew Abate lives in New Jersey.

A plausible story might be that the PO installed a set of rebuilt rocker arms, didn't inspect them closely, and missed #8. Or got in a bind and decided to use it anyway. And didn't properly tighten the bolts. I can't see how you get a groove like that on #8 except during regrinding of the pad surface. If the cam lobe had worn out there might be a groove closer to the end, but not where that one is. If the others are all good you'd probably be okay just replacing the bad parts.

I thought that the "hard pedal" or abrupt brake actuation was almost always the reaction disc in the brake booster. I've seen people talk about resetting those switches but I think that the FSM describes that they automatically recenter when the pressure differential problem is removed. In the later FSM's anyway. They don't mention any need to replace it in 1972. Some people think that they divert pressure to the working half of the system but I don't think so. The master cylinder's serial piston setup will still pressurize just with more travel, I think. But if you have a hard high pedal that would mean both front and back are getting pressure. p.s. I think that you're blending up your terms and words. There's a switch, which you show, and distribution fitting (3 way connector), and a proportioning valve.

I meant that the OP should show the back of his. I've never seen one of yours on an AFM. I think it might be a hardware store replacement. I think that the rubber corks are stock, although many AFM's are sealed with clear hard sealant. Who knows.

That's a good one. Show the back of the piece. Is there a hole that fits over a nut or stud? The AFM plug is solid.