Zed Head

2+2's came with the smaller R180, I believe. Don't get an R180. If you can find an 87-89 (?) 300ZX Turbo it might have the CLSD R200 that is a direct bolt-in swap.

A 3.9 will match the first gear ratio on an 81-83 5 speed. The 80 5 speed might have the .773 overdrive which makes 5th feel like it belongs right after 4th, instead of being way out there. Just complicating your decision... 3.9 x 3.062 = 11.94 3.54 x 3.321 = 11.75

Like the US - https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/cases-in-us.html

Here's another. Weird how different the numbers. WHO seems to be reporting less. Edit - apparently some sites only report on the weekdays. ??? https://experience.arcgis.com/experience/685d0ace521648f8a5beeeee1b9125cd

We've been loading up AV's Hitachi thread. Thought I'd start a new thread on the Corona virus. Here's a good way to watch what's happening. The yellow dots on the lower right are the scary part. They won't just stop climbing. https://www.arcgis.com/apps/opsdashboard/index.html#/bda7594740fd40299423467b48e9ecf6

If you "Submit a File" here it will be available. Pick a proper place for it, submit it, and it will upload.. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

On a lighter note - https://katu.com/news/local/newport-pd-asks-public-to-avoid-calling-911-because-they-ran-out-of-toilet-paper

Very easy to believe though. It fits. "The German health ministry spokesperson declined the opportunity to correct any inaccuracies in Die Welt’s account."

https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2020/mar/15/trump-offers-large-sums-for-exclusive-access-to-coronavirus-vaccine

This topic has come up before. If the nut falls off of the bolt the bolt can slide out and the wheel can swing away from the control arm. If the nuts fall off of the spindle pin the assembly stays together, it's just looser than it was. The lock pin locks all of the parts together. Lots of things on the car aren't needed for operation. You could safety wire the nut on the bolt, or the nuts on the spindle pin, and be about as safe, I guess.

I wonder how many tuners are going with a flat curve because they're mimicking the limitations of the mechanical distributors. Example from the internet - https://stinger-performance.proboards.com/thread/1003/megasquirt-tuning-basics-timing

I wonder who the "seller" is, to set a reserve so high for big bumper 260Z? Seems fishy. What is Copart?

The cars came from the factory with shady wire splices. Rewiring probably won't fix your problems. The turn signals are the switch, the gauges are probably the bulbs. You need a Z shop, not a god shop. (Edit - no offense intended to god shops...)

https://www.businessinsider.com/coronavirus-bidet-sales-increase-panic-toilet-paper-shortages-brondell-tushy-2020-3

You missed this one, above. I left out the word "how". Those are mistakes though. The Honda guy did his on purpose. It diminishes the impact of what he's saying, dramatically. Plus the fact that he's just talking from his own opinions, apparently. Texting it out to the world on his phone. "I saw a video, do a search and u will find,", etc. He's just saying "I saw some stuff on the internet and here's what my opinion is". It's just bench-racing. Interesting reading but at the end you have to wonder, "why should I believe this guy?". This part might be my favorite - "and if u are a tuner u would know ECT/IAT move around alot in normal driving". ECT/IAT move around alot (sic) when driving...WTF? This is tuner-knowledge? Just having fun, nothing personal.

I don't have anything to add, just have to point out really weird it is for a person to take the time and effort to write all of his complicated thoughts down. But still cut the corners on the word "you". Makes me think of a high school kid on his phone trolling a bunch of engineers. It is on a Honda forum, but sill...just weird. Just type in the y and the o. The whole word is contained in four keys across the top of the keyboard. Just one of those WTF things.

There are a few things that you can check and do to reduce risk (edit - for the bar not the daughters). You'll want to do a test-fit to see where you're starting. It might even be possible to mount it "floating" so it's tension-free, with the right bolts and the right gasket.

The back of the Owners Manual has the best wiring diagram. I'd follow that power circuit for the brake light switch. Stop switch. There should be power there at all times. Key on or off. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/17-owner-manuals/

Did you check the fusible links? Year of car will help. They all have brake lights and hazard switches.

Is this a new problem in a car that you've had for years? Or a problem with a car you just bought? Or somewhere in between?

Piston speed should be considered. Not crankshaft rotational speed. Unless it's a Wankel. Throw in the angle of the rod also. At higher degrees advanced the leverage on the crankshaft increases dramatically. Small pressure can overcome the inertia of the crankshaft and associated parts. Just tossing wrenches...

That's the clue that Terrapin left in his thread, I assume, with the first title about a **73**. The badges and the vents are in the pictures.

Did you get the pedestal that the distributor sits on? Two screws hold it to the timing chain cover. Your 280Z pedestal won't work right with a ZX distributor, you'll run out of adjustment range. Disassembly introduces more risk. If the parts aren't rusty you could probably just purge the old oil and grease with some brake or carb cleaner then relube it. If everything moves smoothly and correctly, why take a chance. I think that your others might just have a cap over that screw. That looks like a reman but that doesn't mean it's bad.

Metal fatigue and bolt loosening would be the concern. On the cam towers, not the head itself, or the bar. @Clay C are you the buyer?

Weird that so many died there. Like an elephant graveyard. Or is the owner just an old car collector, and he went out and got them? Or hurricane. Did you get a ZX or 280Z distributor?