Zed Head

Here's something that I did when measuring voltage drop across my ignition wires. Take a long piece of wire and run it from the battery positive post to the coil positive post. If the engine turns over and has fuel it should start. You'll have to remove the wire to get the engine to die. Not sure how your wires are connected at the coil and ballast, and you don't have any test light or meter measurements or spark checks so that's just a quick and dirty check. If it starts at least you know that there's hope. And don't forget starter fluid. p.s. "turn over" and "crank" are the same thing.

Casting core plug https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Core_plug

The pressure seen on the gauge depends on the size of the volume in the gauge and its fittings that the air is being compressed in to. A long hose, or a big gauge, or an adapter can lower the pressure. The smaller the volume the higher the number. Pop's Z's Z has a small chamber head (280Z head, probably N42) on a block with flat top pistons. Should be around 10:1 CR, give or take some. Higher than the 8.3:1 of the typical 280Z engine. So, higher cylinder pressures. Like SteveJ wrote, it's the comparison that really matters.

Hammer time. Supposed to start at 11:00 minutes.

I think that he probably got some of that blue silicone hose at OReilly or Autozone.

No, 12V post is S, which would be the top of the T in your plug. Ignition key on is the vertical part of the T. I don't know which way that plug fits n the alternator so can't say which color is what. But, by your description, it looks backward. Here is an image from an 83 ZX Z, which used the S and L terminology. and Nissan used it in theri schematic. The T is upside down but that should be manageable.

If it ran before it seems like nothing major would have happened just from disconnecting and reconnecting the AFM hose. I don't know that I would start messing with things that you haven't touched. Focus on the area you were working in. Looks like you disconnected the throttle valve sensor for some reason. What else did you disconnect? One strong possibility is that you disconnected the water temperature sensor and are flooding it. That would be one reason starting fluid doesn't work. I agree with Dave, that internal fuel tank looks scary. Reminds me of what I saw in a wrecking yard once. A full size fuel tank strapped inside the car, a Z, with hoses running through holes up to the engine. A firebomb waiting to happen.

Don't forget the obvious. There's a left and a right. They might be bypassed in your setup or they might not be.

This is not enough to really begin making guesses. Remove the spark plugs and examine them. They can tell you a lot about what's happening in the cylinders. You'll have to remove them anyway to measure cylinder pressure. The fact that it runs means that you can listen to it and mess with it while it is running. You can learn a lot that way also. The coolant might be a "red herring". Irrelevant to the running problem.

Not bad. Here's more details on how to do it. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125904-jeep-cam-angle-sensor-for-l-series/

Here's a bunch about it. You set the pressure plate on a flat surface, put the collar/sleeve with bearing on top, then measure to the top of the ears where the clutch fork contacts. There are pictures and drawings in some of these threads. https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?&q=92mm pressure plate&search_and_or=and&sortby=relevancy

Most auto parts stores have a selection of pre-fitted brake lines of various lengths. You can take your old parts in and compare and test fit. Use a piece of wire or string to run down your old line to get the length.

If you have an electric pump you can disconnect up by the filter and pump most of it out. You can also disconnect the outlet hose at the tank if you want control of the first few gallons. Easier to use Vise-grips on the hose than trying to get the plug back in if your container fills up.

The USA was/is planning to open borders to international travelers. I wonder if that will still happen as planned. Things are getting bad again over in Europe. https://www.reuters.com/world/uk/us-relax-travel-restrictions-passengers-uk-eu-november-source-2021-09-20/ https://www.yahoo.com/news/deltas-surprise-uk-comeback-is-a-warning-sign-for-the-us-090008459.html https://ourworldindata.org/covid-cases

We're talking about the 280ZX Turbo transmissions. 1981 - 1983. Not brand name changes decades later. Not what AC Delco did in 2016. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEXRON Here's the 1983 FSM info again. That is what the conversation is about. 1983. The stuff about 2016 is interesting but not really relevant.

It's right there in the graphic that I pasted from the 1983 FSM. I doubt that they were recommending gear oil in their automatic transmissions. Look at the graphic. "Type DEXRON" is mentioned twice.

I understand dutchz just fine.

It's been confusing over the whole lifetime of Borg Warner "T5"'s. Put "atf t5" in the Google box and a ton will come up. You could read for days and still never be sure. But the ATF issue still exists. I bought a 2003 Ford with an M5OD 5 speed in it and Ford recommends Mercon V ATF. But it got stuck in neutral often (a not uncommon problem with the M5OD. Too slippery for the synchros? Don't know), so I used Pennzoil Synchromesh and it fixed all of the problems. That was 30,000 miles ago and some of the Ford guys say it's going to burn the needle bearings up because it's to thick. But it's been fine.

Click the chain link and paste your link there. Yours didn't work.

Pretty sure Nissan wasn't recommending spitwads here...

You can see a lot of the timing chain parts with the valve cover off. Get a bright light and see what's down there. If somebody broke a bolt off in the thermostat housing (very common) and drilled it out they might have drilled a hole in the guide. It's right behind one of the holes. I don't see how piston ring parts get out of the ring groove and down the length of the piston skirt to the crankcase without major piston damage.

Can't remember your year of car or I'd post a link but the big full-car wiring diagrams show the fusible link circuits.

Looks like you didn't quite get the signature thing. Maybe you didn't click save, it's not obvious. Here is what the page looks like (thanks Steve). For some reason it's in Account Settings even though it is actually a Profile thing (I spent 5 minutes looking through Profile to try to find it in the past). Makes no sense, it's not a setting. Anyway... Just type stuff in the box and click Save.