Zed Head

I did this same swap on my 76. Use the 1978 Engine Electrical chapter, Transistor Ignition Unit, as a guide for testing. Here's the proper pinout for the plug. "L" = blue.

You don't need to worry about the white wire, except to make sure it doesn't short out. It's looking, though, like you're jumping ahead of your problem. You need to confirm that the wires connected to your current module are correct. There's only five to wrry about. Green, red, blue, black with white stripe, and black.

Site's pictures are for the ZX distributor. Same idea for the single point reluctor though,which you have. You'll see the difference when you remove the distributor cap. You really do need to check the position of the rotor. It's easy and not uncommon for them to be a tooth off. If it's a tooth or two off then your plug wires might need to be off also. Might explain your intake flames. The fact that you got a flame means that you got a spark though so you know that things aren't terrible with your ignition system.

There are some basic tests that you can do to figure out where the problem is. Have you confirmed power to the coil?

I think that EuroDat addresses the single versus dual pickups in his writeup. But, you don't need to swap distributors, you can use the just one of the two pickup coils that's in your current distributor. You'll have a spare pickup coil already installed if you do it that way.

That was the thread. I forgot that it was part of a much bigger one. Never would have found it. Halo, are you just planning ahead with a spare, or having ignition problems? The GM HEI module swap is a better system, I think, with a new GM module, than using an old Nissan 7 pin module. Plus, the Nissan modules were "low energy" until 1978. And I think that after 1977 they were all 5 pin, so the -27 is probably have a low energy Nissan module. Use the GM module and appropriate coil, remove the ballast, and you'll be able to run a wider gap on your plugs and have a stronger spark.

There's a whole thread about this somewhere very recent. Search around, or maybe Eurodat remembers. We both posted in it. Same question, almost exactly, slightly different form.

So, $100,000 and $75,000, for Nissan USA sponsored "refurbishments". I'm a fan of provenance, and "time retention", or patina, myself. Still, seems like the Safari Gold car had its patina removed, but still got the higher price. It's still a resto-restomod. Valuation is a finicky beast. This auction is a contrast to the common discussions of correctness, which is nice. Thanks for clarifying.

Seems odd that they would go for exactly the same nice round big number. They have different histories. One has a 5 speed so is not "correct" and has had the factory-sponsored restoration monkeyed with. It's a resto-restomod. It's a neat story but just seems a little weird, unless somebody with so much money it barely matters just cast a blow-everybody-out-of-the-water bid. The details will be interesting if they come out.

So where, exactly, do these 240Z's fit in to the 240Z spectrum? People are excited but they look fairly unique, with lots of restoration funding behind them. Two factory-sponsored restorations if I read the earlier posts right, and one with a second "full" restoration. And is that $100,000 for both or each? Anybody notice that one of them is a 1996 model? Is that when the factory resto program was?

Looks like a nice work holder for the port grinding you're doing also. Have you tried the heater yet? Probably makes a nice pizza too.

A separate topic would be easier to find. This thread is on Page 6 and will probably keep growing. You could also put it on your web site and link to it. A link to a link. You might want to make a list of web sits you're involved with too, so that you can check back sooner than 11 months. Just saying, it's been a while. p.s. apparently 123 is closed until 1/14. so there may not be a response until then. @123ignitionusa

Where can we get that magic dust? I'm going out to the garage now with my leaf blower.

So, a plain old carb like most of us raised on domestic cars learned on? Still, if the throttle plates open the engine should gain RPM. If there was a blockage in the fuel supply it would go lean and pop or stall. So timing does seem like a possibility. Retarded probably. I learned about retarded timing back when I was just learning the "time by ear" method. My ear was bad and timing got way off. Turned a 400 CI Pontiac engine in to a gutless wonder.

It's always been a dimmer switch to me. Nissan too... 1972... How do you do... My name is Sue...

Starting at what I've learned as "first principles" might help. Control of air volume is what determines engine speed, for the most part. That's where the word "throttle" came from, to describe the mechanism that controls engine speed. The SU's have a somewhat unique mechanism of controlling air flow via the piston, which s actuated by manifold pressure, as I understand things. Opening the butterflies starts the process but you can open the butterflies and the piston might not move, blocking air flow. Short - maybe the carb pistons are stuck.

The ground path is in the dimmer switch at the base of the turn signal stalk. You can take it apart or just spray cleaner in to the internals. Pretty common for the lights to not work at all because the dimmer switch is gummed up. There are ground wire connections from the dimmer switch that can be pulled apart and cleaned.

Distributor maintenance is described in the Engine Electrical chapter of the FSM. Another possible reason for the back/front fire is a stuck valve. Not uncommon in engines that have sat for a long time. You might remove the valve cover and check things out. Ford F150s from the 90's used a pump that will work. BMW's also. If you want a cheap pump. Many cars have fine fuel systems and end up in the wrecking yard for crash reasons.

Power tends to corrupt. Even unions have managers. Ironic. They do the negotiating. Things tend to be cyclic. Detroit will probably come back as the new Miami Beach after global warming. Alabama will be Mexico though so they'll still be running strong in manufacturing. Random thoughts on a slow night...

I took some German (Deutsch) lessons once. Zwei bier, bitte! Schnell!

The pictures say loaded with body filler don't they? And the small number of pictures and no details say "call me so I can smooth-talk you". Run away...

I think that he meant with the Ignitor, not the 123. Hence did.

Hey, just to be clear on this, I think that most people use the Ignitor I, not the II. The II is better than the I, with "adaptive dwell" or current-limiting, but for quite a while Pertronix was unclear on which cars it would fit. The ZX distributor has current limiting also. So, tach problems might be similar to ZX distributor swaps. Some have them some don't. It's probably a gamble. There are adapters out there that seem to work for people though, if you do have problems. Still though...Pertronix quality is not what it was. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-91761/overview/make/nissan http://pertronix.com/docs/instruction-sheets/91761.pdf

Don't forget that output also diminishes with age. New headlights can make a big difference. Seems like a person could run jumpers to the headlights for a quick test of what to expect from a set of relays. If they're on the fence about them. Of course, the other advantage of the relays is that it takes the load off of the switch on the steering column. Which gets pitted and heats up and tends to fail.

You can pull the cap, with the timing mark on ~10 degrees on the #1 firing stroke, and see if the rotor is pointing at the #1 wire. While you're waiting for water pumps and stuff you might just run through your ignition system. It's pretty simple. Check for power at the coil with the key on, check the air gap of the reluctor/pickup coil with feeler gauges, check resistance of the pickup coil, make sure that the #1 pin of the ECU connector is connected the wire at the coil's negative terminal, and more. All of the simple things that people end up finding out was the cause of their no-start problem. When you do get it back together if you use starter fluid squirt it in to any port on the intake manifold. Just to be sure it's getting where it needs to be. Your intake system was probably sucking so much air through the holes in your AFM hoses that the fluid never got to the manifold. There is a simple set of resistance readings that you can do on the AFM's to see if they're in spec. I've had out of spec AFM's work fine though, so don't toss them if they're off a little bit. You can run 12 volts through your pump but don't do it for too long. The electric motor inside is actually normally submerged in gasoline that keeps it cool. And the roller bearings probably get lubrication from the gas also. I'd only give it a few whirs then stop.