Zed Head

Power to the injector plugs runs through the relay. So if the relay is good and there's power to the relay plug you should have power at the injector plugs. Only on one side though, if all of them are disconnected. If they are connected then you might see power on both pins, through backfeeding from the other injectors. You should see power when the key is at On. You're testing the right way with one probe on ground and the other on the pin. I'd probe all of the pins at the relay plug and see if there's power there with the key On.

Actually, on testing at the EFI relay plug you could just probe all of the pins in the plug with the key On. A couple or more should have power. If none do then the relay would never work anyway.

I went back through the thread and it seems like, with the fuel pressure fixed, and the new connectors, and the big vacuum leak fixed, that you might be able to get a start if you can get power to and/or through your EFI relay, the one in your hand. The relay you showed is actually the pump relay and the EFI relay combined. Before getting too crazy with the testing you might identify which pin is a power wire from the diagram, then go to the plug under the dash and confirm that it has continuity to the battery positive. Or, since you've already turned the key On, just turn the key On again and check for power there. If you do have power, maybe plug the relay back in and check for power at the injectors. Might be that the fusible link is burned and that's why you don't have fuel pump or injection. You can check at the end of the fusible link also just to confirm, since it's attached to the battery. Should have power at the red arrow if you disconnect there. Although, sometimes the links don't burn completely through. But attach a probe and bend the link around to see.

You might have got lucky on your EFI power and ground. But you should really check unknown wires with a meter before connecting them. I like to check continuity directly at the thing that is supposed to be getting power. Do this before you apply power and you'll know that you're not shorting directly to ground. Didn't you already check power to the injectors though? That's where that power goes, among other areas.

There is. Copied a snap from the 76 FSM, EF chapter. There's another page of tests after that. Looks pretty brown. They run hot and can burn up after a while.

That's a vacuum port for the charcoal canister. It should be sealed if it's not connected to the canister. The blue flame is from a backfire in to the intake manifold. That would be from either running lean (big vacuum leak) or a timing problem. Find or make a plug for it, squirt some fluid in there, seal it up, and try to start it. It's a pretty big vacuum leak if it's open. It might start and run.

Not so sure about the monogamy. He just grabs what he wants. Probably how he got his current wife. Probably bought her. Mail-order was big, before the internet.

Funny, we used to worry about "cookies" being used to track which web sites we visited. "Invasion of privacy!!!" But they're actually tracking every word we write. NSA, CIA, Google, Russia...pretty incredible stuff.

Disconnect the EFI system by disconnecting the fusible link or fuel pump power and see if it runs better with just starting fluid. If it still runs bad then it's not going to run better with carbs. There's no magic bullet, even with carbs.

If the distributor works now then the pickup coils are good, so it should work with the proper MSD connections. If it doesn't work, it's not going to work with a manual distributor either. Seriously, it's not complicated. Two wires. The hardest part will be figuring out which wire is positive and which is negative. But I think the MSD instructions cover that, it's a common VR system problem. Which yours is, a variable reluctor trigger.

http://www.torcousa.com/index.html

Funny, I was sitting here staring at your message and mine and simply be underlined itself. I think it's on the server. Hybridz had the problem a while ago, bit other sites didn't. This site loads a lot of stuff, it takes much longer than other pages to finally finish and allow interaction.

Seems like they should work if they're tight. Nissan used a wide range of clip thicknesses, but they always paired them by size, so there was no centering process to worry about. There's a marking compound that you can buy for an easy visual check of movement. Basically just stiff paint that cracks if the parts move. Just curious and don't want to plant a seed of worry, but did you check the internals of the cross piece for machining grit, aka swarf? That's one of the common problems with offshore stuff, the reman parts anyway.

That sounds like the typical old malware that scans text and ID's words or phrases to link to external sites. Not sure if it's only on the first person's computer or the web site server. Let's see. It must simply be simple.

Yes, assuming that you're going to use the pickup coil to trigger the MSD box. You'll be using the two wires from just one of the coils. Typically the wires are tied together though so it might be difficult to remove the other. No need to remove one though, just use only one and leave the other as a spare.

Are you sure you have the plug wires in the right rotational direction? I've had mine start and run like you describe with them on backward. 153624 counterclockwise.

This unlike Dave WM. No details! Where's the video?! Did you remove the complete inner panel and just work from inside the car or did you take the motor out? Which type of line did you use for replacement? Probably shown in the link? Mine still moves a few inches at a time. Button, get out and push/pull, button, get out and push/pull.

Apparently the grill is JDM. Who knows, maybe it is "period correct" for Japan. (Still not perfect though.)

Is that "period correct" for 1975 Japan? Re the SpeedHunter's article. Maybe it depends on how you define a period. Just trying to learn more stuff.

What happened since they were rebuilt by ZTherapy? Probably messed with to fix all of those other problems?

I was serious about installing the TC rod alone, with the bushings, then grabbing the end and pulling it through the motion it would see as the suspension moves. The problem will become more clear, and the reason that Nissan designed that groove in the middle of the rubber bushings. New rubber bushings would probably work great. The PU craze has gone a little too far, I think, sometimes. The PU on the TC rods makes the wheels a little less squirrely under hard braking but doesn't offer much beside that. I have them on my car but also have a full set of MOOG rubber that I might put back on some day. A lot of the things I have on my car are there just to see what the fuss is about. That's how I broke a TC rod.

Kind of rules out a direct short keeping them open. But the ECU also determines time open. So they might be opening and closing correctly, just staying open too long.

A shorted injector wire on the ECU side will cause it to stay open. Try removing injector plugs, until you find one or two that make a difference.

Surprisingly few pictures and details, for the money that you're asking. Did you build the engine or have it built for you? Stuff like that. Not that I'm thinking about buying it. The text says only posting here and at the classicz forums. Is here here, or is here somewhere else. Either way, Hybridz seems more appropriate than here. But you probably know that. Have you thought about BAT, with a reserve? Might be interesting. Good luck.

Nissan ZX turbo injectors are a purplish brown color, NA injectors a light green or light tan color. The numbers don't mean much, it only identifies the design of the injector body plastic. I think it's the same number for both. Color is the key. Unless they're some odd aftermarket injector, which tend to be black or bright green.