Zed Head

Sorry for the over-response below, it's a slow day... It's basically light oils and the PEA. I found the MSDS on the web, below. Like diesel or kerosene probably, hence the smoke. No offense, but youtube is full of videos that show that those products don't really do much. The carbon is baked on and condensed from years of heating cycles. Found some cool stuff about petroleum distillates also. The old school way was to squirt water in the intake manifold or carb with the engine running. Probably came from somebody seeing how clean the cylinders by the head gasket leak were. Kerosene or diesel might have similar effect. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerosene https://3enoro1q5ve12ubndv13jkpk-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/510016-800001366-510104-Gumout-All-In-One-Complete-Fuel-System-Cleaner.pdf https://echa.europa.eu/substance-information/-/substanceinfo/100.059.209

The Start wire runs directly from the switch to the starter, no relay. So, no power at the solenoid would seem to be the switch. There is a connection along the way though that could be loose or corroded. Although, I had a case where the female spade at the starter solenoid had lost electrical contact. It was there, attached, but the metal bits weren't touching. Crimped it tighter with a pair of pliers and was back in action. Wiggle the yellow wire, pull it off and put it back on. Thee should be power at the coil though, with the key on. There are wring diagrams and service manuals in the Downloads area. Is it an automatic? Might be the neutral/park switch.

Actually, they fit the definition, especially if the original M-Speed product is still available from M-Speed. If M-Speed has discontinued the product then you can argue that you're reproducing a popular design. I don't know anything about M-Speed but the topic of knockoffs and counterfeits is interesting to me, since I used to work for a large company that fought both while also contracting manufacturing in Asia. They had problems with product going out the backdoor and also with counterfeit materials coming in the back door to be used to make their product. Those companies, generally, will take extensive measures to make a few more dollars. Not unlike American companies too, of course. https://dictionary.cambridge.org/us/dictionary/english/knockoff http://www.mspeed.jp/ http://www.mspeed.jp/p_common.html

I was offering a simple solution that all sides should accept. Except maybe the death part. I projected. How about just instantaneous signs of infection. Frothing at the mouth, collapse, cries of agony. So that everyone knows there's an infected person present. It will cut down on contact tracing needs dramatically. The link I posted was about how it's not just the young people (college usually implies young). These guys are all older. Biker crowds.

Doesn't the local source have other part numbers? Shipping is going to cost you a lot if you buy from the internet. Even if you buy directly from a manufacturer. Many manufacturers have their own internet presence now. You might not be able to order from their web site but you can get feel for the company. Like zKars link. Or the links I showed in your other thread (always another thread...).

It's not just the college kids. It's the delay in symptoms, and the asymptomatic part that is the big problem. If people would just die as soon as they get it, life would be so much more sensible. That's what the scientists should be working on. An injection that amplifies the effects. Get the injection and you can go do what you want. Because you'll die as soon as you get COVID-19. You won't be able to spread it. All damage contained to you. They could call it the the Freedom Injection. https://www.yahoo.com/news/tens-thousands-motorcycle-enthusiasts-traveled-153930782.html

Do these wheels have a warranty? And what automotive safety or performance specifications do they meet? Honest, reasonable questions, for any product. No offense intended. I don't see any of this type of information in your ad. Thanks.

I might as well say it - I see a lot of potential virus transmitters wandering around. The sickness and death are turning in to background noise now, but for those still thinking about those things, it's worth noting. How were the happy hours? Indoors and boozy? Lots of laughter? It's our new world. Do the risk assessment. Those college kids will be spreading it for the holidays.

Apparently, the product is a knockoff? So, the usual questions about quality apply. And liability, for people who think a little deeper. In the States, everything revolves around lawsuits. All damages can be quantified in to a dollar figure. So, the question would be "who pays if the wheel fails"? Buying from a small company means shallow pockets. Something to consider. There is apparently little regulation of automotive wheels in the US market. I was surprised. Tiny parts like brake hoses need an "off road use only" label, but not rims. Caveat emptor. I might have missed something but it looks like the tests and certifications that are out there are not to pass requirements for sale but to minimize liability. It's weird that anybody can come up with a wheel design, make it, and sell it, with no testing or qualification required. Why aren't there more accidents? A sampling of Google stuff - https://www.sema.org/federal-regulation-aftermarket-parts?__utma=95790915.1630008249.1600708277.1600708289.1600708289.1&__utmb=95790915.0.10.1600708289&__utmc=95790915&__utmx=-&__utmz=95790915.1600708289.1.1.utmcsr=google|utmccn=(organic)|utmcmd=organic|utmctr=(not provided)&__utmv=-&__utmk=235755721#Tires-Wheels https://www.sae.org/learn/content/c0102/ https://www.sae.org/standards/content/j3010_202002/?_ga=2.120073344.986013974.1600708173-681642261.1600708172 http://us-mags.com/us-mag-warranty-p-22.html https://www.tsw.com/

What's an SME? Swapping a turbo engine in is more complicated than it seems. It's an EFI engine so you'll need all of the electronics and wiring and injectors and other odd electrical parts, plus you have to be good with electrical troubleshooting, because of the age of the parts. Or you can get an aftermarket EFI system, but still, electrical knowledge is needed. It's a different world from carbs. And, as site's sites shows, the turbo 5 speed is not a bolt-in swap, like the NA 5 speeds are. It needs a crossmember and a different propeller shaft (length). More cost, more work.

He buys parts, marks up the price, and resells them. Might as well bypass him for a starter. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Starter-fits-Nissan-280Z-280ZX-78-83-Maxima-81-84-200SX-77-79-810-78-81/164392873832?fits=Model%3A280ZX&hash=item2646942f68:g:L4wAAOSwPZxfZ6oB:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!98115!US!-1

The cam lobes are the part that usually gets damaged after a rebuild, on these engines for sure, and others. Usually it's recommended to let it sit at about 1500-2000 RPM for 20 minutes to let the lobes and pads wear in with good lubrication. You guys compressed 20 minutes at 1500-2000 down to about three at 3000-4000 it looks like but it's probably fine. p.s. it does sound good though... p.s. #2 it's not going to rust over a week with just water in it. Actually, if you fill it with water you might find some leaks by next weekend. It's not the water that causes rust it's the oxygen in the air. So, filled with water would be no big deal unless you get a freeze in Sherman Oaks. https://www.melling.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Camshaft-Break-In-Proced-Rev4-12-07.pdf

Might be that the other part numbers will fit but there are minor differences. Who knows. Really though, a 280ZX gear reduction starter is the way to go. Smaller and less drain on the battery. https://proampusa.com/UnitSearch.aspx?A1=1982-Nissan-280Z @ 280ZX-2.8L-Starter

These seem to be the right numbers for a 240Z. https://proampusa.com/UnitSearch.aspx?A1=1972-Nissan-240Z-2.4L-Starter and here is the 16711 number. https://www.proampusa.com/PartDetails.aspx?OS1=Y&IDNum=20408

eBay says that that is a 200SX starter and wil not fit your L24 engine https://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Motor-Quality-Built-16711-Reman/224116967604?fits=Model%3A200SX|Make%3ADatsun&epid=75498341&hash=item342e6988b4:g:CsgAAOSwiwFcpsxh

You need a shift lever. The corrosion around the drain hole is not a big deal. Maybe some road salt got in there and caused corrosion over the years. It shouldn't get bigger once you clean things up.

Can you tell which corner has the air in it? See bubbles come out of the tube? Hate to bring i up but you might have damaged the seal on that piston and it's sucking air. Just a big Maybe to check for. Big MAYBE, don't know, hope it's not, but it could be. Beside that you probably drew a lot of air in to that cylinder when the piston was unseated. Spend a lot of extra time purging that one. Tap on the lines, fittings, and cylinder to break any small bubbles free. The fronts are where a lot of air can hang out. Did you do any work up there? Bleed screws up... Brakes are the biggest pain on these cars, I think. Since you had the master cylinder off there could be air working its way through from there, through the NP valve, and the pressure imbalance warning switch, and the various junctions. Just a lot of little spots for a bubble to hang up. I put speed bleeders on the backs so that I could push a lot of fluid through quickly. Many people like the speed bleeders. They help.

"Shoes". The retainer will pop off with a thin screwdriver or a pick or needle nose pliers, I think. It kind of depends on what you can see when you peel the boot back. Take it a step at a time and see how far you get. You might be able to pull the shoe back enough to reposition the piston. Good luck.

That movie is way too big to download easily. Lower the resolution or just make it shorter. It was 520 MB. Took a few minutes and I have decent internet speed. I saw it get up to 40 psi but it should have been higher. Could be the oil pump but the other reason for low pressure is low resistance to flow from worn parts, like crankshaft bearings. But an oil pump change is worth a shot, to start. Turbo pumps are high volume pumps, to make up for the oil diverted to the turbo. You shouldn't really need it. You might just drop the one you have and check it. There are specs in the FSM. Take pictures if you find ravaged parts. Entertainment for the audience.

Pop the rubber boot off so that you can see the piston. It might just be cocked. The boot is just a dust seal, the cylinder would actually work without it. But it's obstructing your view for now. Open the bleed valve and manipulate the piston until it slides in like it should.

It's adjustable. I'd guess the 40 was a mid-range point or something. So, you want the aluminum fuel rail and you're wondering which FPR to get? You can use the stock FPR with the aluminum rail. Doesn't look as nice but it works. If you do get an adjustable FPR be aware that most of them leak pressure down rapidly once the pump turns off. So restarts typically take longer than desirable.

I'd only do the spots that might come loose, like the corners and the ends. Maybe even use none, then lock it down later if needed. If you find that one of them is a problem you'll have to remove all of the goop that you just laid down.

Are you saying that you need to use an adjustable FPR because you can't find a 36 psi FPR? Not clear. Most setpoint FPR's are 2.5 or 3.0 bar. 36.3 or 43.5 psi. And you can use an adjustable FPR on the stock rail.

These cars did not get any protective coating on the metal before priming and painting. That's why almost all of them have rust spots and bubbled paint, underneath what appears to be undamaged paint. Today's cars get a protective coating and are "electrocoated" so that every piece of metal is covered. http://www.ppgecoat.com/Markets-Applications/Automotive.aspx

Don't the lacquers used on these cars come off with a heat gun and a scraper? Just asking. Might work away from heat sensitive materials. Some of the aggressive paint stripper chemicals are still available in pure form, at hardware stores. MEK, maybe methylene chloride (that's the good one).