Zed Head

Modified green 73. Stroked 3.1 but not sharing the name of the builder. Typical youtube video with bad music, but he does start it and drive it. Can't tell if he pumped the pedal or not. Do Webers have accel pumps? Loafers with white socks...eeeewwww. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-155/

The fan clutch is more like a torque converter in an automatic transmission. It slips continuously, more so when it's cold. I think that it's never "off" because it needs to pull hot air through the radiator in order to get the feedback it needs to operate correctly. The fins on the clutch serve to absorb heat as well as release it. It needs to absorb the heat in order to stiffen up and spin faster. And it only needs to work when the car is not moving or moving very slowly. No need to be at full throttle/high RPM if you're stuck in a traffic jam. Just some thoughts. The early mechanical feedback mechanisms on cars are pretty fascinating if you dig in to them. Everything is going electronic now, it's just computer code, solenoids, and electric motors. Even automatic transmissions have electronics inside with the ATF. Kind of weird, really.

It might be just that simple. Koni just bought some bad nuts, or bad shafts.

Just keeping it simple. There's a problem that seems to be connected to the Koni lock-nuts and shafts. KYBs, Monroes, etc. all have the same D-shaped threaded portion and have for many many years. Many people use the KYB's but I can't recall any stripped strut shaft comments for KYB's. The engineers at Koni will have the historical data. More returns since the nut change. It's not your fault and you don't need to defend the product. It's actually better to just agree with what the facts show. It's good that you're sharing the problems with the engineers. Please pass on their replies when you get them. Always interesting to see the internals of the big companies.

Maybe just accept that Koni (you) might be wrong, and the customer might be right. These guys are not "nuts" and are very capable of ascertaining the cause of a problem. gundee even supplied some historical background on the actual "long-term proven product". The product in question is not long-term. Where does Koni source the lock-nuts? Or the shafts for the shocks. They might not be what you think they are. This conversation has the signs of the guy who suggested using locknuts defending the decision, shifting blame, when problems crop up. No offense intended, it's very common. gundee's suggestion made sense - go back to what worked just fine. Seriously, you wrote a lot of words just to end by saying it's the customer's poor methods that are the cause.

Put "92mm" in the search box and a bunch of stuff will come up. There's a measurement that you can take before installing that works for most people with a 71B transmission.

I think the fork is hitting the back of the hole at the end of the stroke. He might have a bit more but it doesn't look right. Should be more centered.

It's a very common problem. There is a multitude of pressure plate and throwout sleeve combinations. Tall, short, and in-between. The cheap clutch is probably fine, it's the combination of parts that is the problem.

Looks like a worn clutch or wrong throwout bearing sleeve/collar. The fork seems to be hitting the back of the bellhousing hole. I think I can even see a mark.

This is much clearer than the Nissan drawing. I posted that snip from the FSM mainly to show the ball bearings in the races. And the "bound bumper rubber" that I think nobody has ever actually seen.

Link? You must be the seller.

Heat.

Here's a thought though - put some modeling clay or thin gasket material or grease across the full width of the bearing pocket. See if the shaft end itself is interfering with the front cover. The ball bearings in the races have quite a bit of lateral movement and are designed to take a load. It's sounding more like the end of the shaft is getting jammed in to the cover.

I'm not an expert. And not really sure where your problem is. I remember measuring several front covers and transmissions, from 76 to 83, and finding that they all needed a 0.3mm shim, so there was not a lot of variation over the years. But the table shows that if A is big then you can go without a shim. I also remember realizing that the gasket must be involved in the measurement since it adds to the depth of the bearing pocket. In your case, for what you're doing and working with, I'd leave the shim out and use a thicker gasket until you get free shaft movement. Just to see if you can, and if that is the problem.

Heat-soak 77. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-55/

Round-top 73. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-154/

"We thought... four years later we added the scirroco fan to the 1979 280ZX to try to solve the injector heat soak problem. Five more years later we solved the problem properly/correctly/finally by abolishing the L6 and developing the V6 engine."

Can you see or feel a gap under the front cover before you try to torque the bolts? Are you using a gasket? For any future lurkers, I found the part about sealing the "withdrawal" lever (pivot) ball pin threads. Didn't know it was in there. Not your issue, just adding...

The countershaft bearing actually requires a shim to get proper preload once the cover is installed. I remember that the countershaft bearing was tight against the gear on mine when I removed it. I had to fabricate a sort of bearing splitter to get under the edge it was too close to get puller jaws in. Yours looks like it has lots of space, like the countershaft bearing is not fully seated. Mine was right up against the gear. The inner race should be driven all the way down to a seat area, I believe. Edit - you can see the inner race seat in the illustration above.

Looks like one of the "tall" 240Z pressure plates. If you don't get another tall one you'll need a different throwout bearing sleeve/collar and maybe a different slave cylinder. People have problems with the early 240Z stuff. Beware. zKars posted a link to a place that sells tall pressure plates in one of his past threads.

Cool. Looks like there's a team. BoosterDewey and BoosterSteve. http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/ https://www.yelp.com/biz/power-brake-booster-exchange-portland https://www.facebook.com/BoosterDewey/ https://www.facebook.com/pg/BoosterDewey/about/?ref=page_internal

Watched your video. And a day later an ad for this shows up on Yahoo. Never ever seen this ad before. Spooky. https://mooxbuy.com/products/firewood-drill-bit

Agree with S30. It seems that way. Your wiring has the correct voltages. Have the alternator tested at a parts store. It looks like you have the ground wire connected also but you might as well confirm a good ground with your meter. Measure continuity from the alternator case and the ground post to the body and/or engine block and the negative post of the battery. It's a bummer when new parts fail right away. Good luck.