Zed Head

Only from the forum. @sweatybetty and @tzagi1 are down south. They probably have space.

I got no space. There's 10 of us in the Portland metro area, and another five in driving range.

so that there will be room on the dip stick for the stop-leak seal conditioner.

That looks like shipping charges for the gauges. Small stuff. Still very low though. I just saw a show about how the postal service has contracts with various countries that limit shipping charges. The guy on the show was owner of an American company and said that it would be cheaper for him to ship all of his inventory in one shipment to China in a container or two, then have it shipped to individual customers from there as they placed orders, because of the much cheaper individual order shipping costs. He wrote a book about it, along the lines of why Chinese companies were killing his business. Anyway, good luck.

I was going to make a joke before about how the car seemed fuzzy. The pictures, of course. Now I see why the seller went with fuzzy pictures. You really wore your camera out. The engine's internal parts might be worth a few dollars if the oil protected them. Rocker arms, cam shaft. Spray bar. Tail light lenses. "Series I" back glass.

Pretty sure I've read about trucks, chains, and trees. Maybe a story about a come-along (hand held cable winch) and two trees. You didn't say much about what "pulled on 'em like crazy" means. Maybe just get crazier.

Dubai, UAE. Shipping might be much. Looks interesting.

Anybody remember Bob Vila...the original guy... https://www.bobvila.com/articles/muriatic-acid/

It's the same electrical plug though right? You just have two extra wires. The plugs are all the same I believe. It should plug right in and the two wires are extra.

If you try that be aware that the byproduct of the reaction is hydrogen gas, and heat will be produced. In the small gap around the strut insert and tube there could be enough pressure to start spewing acid from the tube. And muriatic acid is a strong one it will burn you quickly. Don't do this work in a closed space and have a hose handy to dilute any that gets on you. Wear goggles. Not saying it's a bad idea, but apple cider vinegar will have a similar effect, just much slower and safer. Also, since you're using inserts you could drill a hole in the bottom of the tube to get more penetrant or rust eater in.

That sounds very much like mine when the ignition module was dying. After it did what you describe you could let it sit for a few seconds and it would restart. It would run fine if you kept it below about 3000 RPM. But if you revved it, it would do the same thing. The tach needle action is a big clue.

The last tag is 98. So 20 years. Why was it parked? It ran when parked, of course. Do you have the front end pieces? Good luck.

Motorman is right, I think. At least as far as the linkage being the problem, not 100% on the short-arm 180 off. This problem has been seen before, not uncommon. I thought of it after your first post, as others probably did too, but you said that everything was rotating correctly with the wipers off. At least you got everything super-lubed up now. Good luck.

If it was only running on three cylinders you'd probably know it. Although, apparently, three cylinders are almost as smooth as six. But that would be half power. The ignition parts probably won't help what you're describing. And the distributor vacuum is probably on ported vacuum so nothing will happen at idle if you disconnect the hose. And you would suck on the hose, not blow on it, for a test. You might start over with a new description of what's happening now. You started with what sounded like a possible ignition problem, then you got in to the carbs. Not 100% clear what problem you're trying to solve. Might be blending two or more together.

Can't you take a bit off with some Scothbrite, then repolish? Or you could ream the bushing. Just thinking...

I think that the low resistance primary circuit allows a faster "ramp up" to saturation for the coil current. It's not just the voltage-primary resistance calculation that matters. You need a fast ramp time at higher RPM because the time available to reach saturation is shorter. The Pertronix 6.9 A limit will produce more heat and will degrade your parts faster. If you don't have a turbo or are running at 7500+ RPM it's kind of an unnecessary heat load on the system. I use the actual GM HEI coil with my GM HEI module, just for parts harmony. The GM HEI coil has about 0.4 - 0.6 ohm primary resistance. By the way, with a good alternator you'll see over 14 volts. Also, the reason for connecting the two wires at the ballast is because one is Start power and the other is Run power. With the ballast in-use they bypassed the ballast to balance the voltage drop from the starter draw. Here's an interesting file I found out there about coils. I was looking for ramp rate and it's in there but there's a bunch of other neat stuff too. http://www.beruparts.co.uk/content/dam/marketing/emea/beru/brochure/en-all-about-ignition-coils.pdf

No you want to keep that area dry. Often transmission fluid works its way out from there. There are seals but best not to test them. Looks like you lost your protective rubber booty. Toothbrush and a rag...

Here's a ref showing the switchover, to the big body style. I've heard that the AZC guy answers his phone, even though his web site is from the 90's. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/71

Some people say that it will just by overloading it. It has to produce high current for as long as it takes to charge the battery. And most of today's reman alternators aren't very durable to start. Your hand held voltmeter will tell the story. The dash meter too, but it's not as accurate.

Doesn't the 240Z use a different bar than the 280Z? Which type of bar are you using? Which type is the AZC system designed for?

Does zinc plating add much thickness? Just envisioning a really sucky scenario. I don't see the scissors jack, or tire iron....

Nissan provided the patterns in the book. That book has so much information in it it makes me wish I had carbs. I think the part numbers might be in the book too. But there's always carpartsmanual. It says 1972 production. Plug in to Google and see what pops up. Page 72 has the dimensions - https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/60-fuel-system-modification-plus-73-74/ Here's carpartsmanual - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/carburetor-240z-(l24)

It's okay to post the other member's name. The link would be even better. Nissan's description does not fit that scenario. Anybody with a properly installed system should be able to verify what's what. "Vapor lock" is caused by fuel vaporizing in the lines before the mechanical pump. It makes sense that an electric pump pushing fuel to the mechanical pump would help. If the pump's not running it's a restriction, causing lower line pressure, which lowers boiling point. But, Nissan had a plan. They just didn't tell anybody what it was. Who knows.

Your battery is probably so dead that the alternator can't keep the voltage up at low RPM. If you went from a stone dead battery to driving the car after getting a jump, that's a n issue. It puts a heavy load on the alternator also. We all use jumper cables at will but sometimes they shouldn't be used. Should have charged the battery up first. Plus letting a battery go completely dead is bad for it. They often don't recover. Check your voltages.

If the electric pump shuts off after starting then the mechanical pump would have to pull fuel through it. Which would increase the possibility of vapor lock. Plus the mention of the kit in the Troubleshooting section suggests that the electric pump is on while the engine is running.