tlorber

Stephen, whatever you do to your car, just make sure you complete it early enough so that you can put a lot of hard miles on the car before the rally. It is definitely better to make adjustments and repairs near your house than on a trip far from home. Also, if you want I can post a list of tools and supplies I bring just case of road emergencies (which NEVER happen, of course).

I went to Supercar Sunday early this morning in the Z and saw some awesome cars, including a Skyline (which had the steering wheel and pedals on the WRONG side of the car). So after a drive through the canyons, I was going to the shop to work on the roadster, and the guy next to me keeps giving me the thumbs up, (I swear it was the thumb). So I turn to look, and it was Jay Leno in some early 20's right hand drive Rolls Royce looking thing- or some other car way out of my league. I knew he had owned a roadster back in the day, but it was nice to see that he had a appreciation for the Z as well.

Everything I have read stetes that it is not worth the effort and damage risk of removing the liners, and that any gain in flow is questionable, or negligible at best.

I sent mine here. http://www.nhspeedometer.com/ It cost $175.00 2 years ago. It has worked great ever since and will accept any kind of wave form (ignition) as input.

MR 240K, I'm no artist, but that is really cool stuff! I never understood Andy Warhol's work, and I think he is overrated. That video clip is a case in point.

You might want to keep the smelly carpet to use as patterns for new ones. The kits that you buy are pretty limited in color (as Henry ford said, "you can get any color you want as long as it's black").

Uh huh.

Bonzi, are you sure about that date? My daughter always insists on climbing out through the hatch.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41731&d=1301933364 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41732&d=1301933630 Not sure it's OEM, but its what I went with.

I thought the torque spec on those was closer to 40 lbs. 20 sounds light for 14 mm nuts.

Julio, I hope you're getting that boat out. This must be a great time of year to be on the bay.

Dang! If I were out there I'd be running thar all the time. Looks like a fun drive-although with 600 cars it could get a bit crowded. Please post video if possible.

Thanks, gnose. Why do you need to replace the booster?

I know topic of biasing/proportioning is on other threads, but for those of you that have done the 4x4 vented upgrade and left the drums alone, did you get into dealing with having to re proportion the fluid?

I believe that is for the driver's side. If you are to flip this around for the passenger's side you'll need a shim to compensate for the camber of the mirror stem. Otherwise the mirror will be sitting off at a strange angle. I do agree that the OEM mirrors are much nicer than some of the bulky looking after market ones. They preserve the proportions of the car better.

Iron helix, if you are unable to find a stock passenger's side mirror that is convex, you can get a mirror from a more modern car (Integra or similar), cut it to size and silicone it to the flat one. I bought a glass cutting bit for the dremmel on eBay for this purpose. Took a bit of doing, but nothing more complicated than the average fabrication we do on these cars.

I have a Momo Race on my car. Diameter is about 13.7". Control is so much better in the turns and the grip is a lot less fatiguing on long drives. It is also easier to get into and out of the car with. I bought it NOS on eBay for $130.00 shipped. I shan't be going back to stock. I agree that you should give the wheel enough time to get used to it and then see if the stocker feels out of place. Once again, it all depends on how you drive the car. Regarding seats- I have Miata seats in my car. Great lumbar support and side bolstering. I had a 1000 mile rally last month and had a great time.

Zedy, my $.02 on originality...if its a bolt on part, you can always stick it in the corner of the garage and put it back on if you ever so desire. I can't tell you how nice the electronic dizzy and alternator are, not to mention how the 5 speed, shortened shifter and Momo steering wheel (good god those stock wheels are horrendous for driving) make the car feel. I'm sure your carbs will do the same.

When my Lexus hit a hundy, I actually pulled over and took a pic. Made sure I wasn't on the freeway when it happened.

Unkle, Is that 100 pounds Canadian or American? I think I'd allow up to about 120 lbs if properly proportioned. Question about octane--if a car is not pinging on low or mid grade, will a higher octane really give more power?

Yeah I was going to mention the brakes as well. Going fast is good-stopping fast is better. Did you have any plans to upgrade? If so, just curious what exactly they were. I ask because it is the next project after I get my bumpers welded up and rechromed. Also wondering why you are putting in a 4 speed instead of a 5 speed. It is definitely nice to have more gears-especially the combo of a close ratio 5 speed, shorter diff and the overdrive... best of all worlds. I think at 80mph I'm ticking at about 2,800 rpm with a 3.7 diff.

I think the overall response to the thread is impacted by a heinous looking car. Just my opinion though.

"That's about as useful as a poopie flavored lollipop."

Another thing you can do is to bend to adjust the various pivot points within the line. By INCREASING the radii of the "driving" pivots, and DECREASING the radii of the "drivin" points you can smooth out the overall throw in the system.