Zedyone_kenobi

Yup, this is the tool you are referring to. I love this thing. This is when I first got it. Currently, IF you take the white collar shown in this picture, and move it to the left passing the first indication until it is about 2-3 mm to the right of the second indication, that is where my fuel levels are on my Z right now.

Interesting... I will check. I can tell you how far the level is from the outside top of the cover to fuel level. But not the inside top of the cover to the fuel level. I will take off a cover and measure the thickness of the plate so I can subtract the two. Will be interesting. Just to be clear, you are saying with the fuel level at operating height, The distance from the top of the fuel level to the inside of the fuel bowl's ceiling should be 25mm. Well that should be easy to determine.

Well said and I will do exactly as stated. I will take measurements again while the car is running. Would be a good time to clean everything off as well. I will probably weigh all the floats as well to see if any gas has some how worked its way into the pores affecting buoyancy.

NO I checked them with the fuel pump running but the engine off. Figured as long as their was pressure on the system it would be fine.

yes, I used the Kieth Franke class tube method with the little device he sells. They are a bit low from the mark on the glass tube. But they are even. I think they have been at this level all along. I may try to raise them up. I checked all the filters in the carb bodies, they look fine. I checked the tightness of the bolts they are all fine. I run about 12.3:1 at idle on my wideband. I will try to adjust the floats this coming friday when I have more time off. You know I had always wanted to see what some DCOE 45's would do on this engine...

Yup, the regulatory plunger in my Mallory pump stuck and I ended up sending 18 psi to my webers for darn near a minute before I realized what was happening. I made a thread over that problem, including the solution. I am not back to a rock steady 3 psi. However, when I started it up the very first time after this happened the car acted very funny at first. One of the floats was stuck all the way down and I was running on 4 cylinders for a while. I tapped the top of the carb where the float needle is and the fuel pressure dropped to zero then increased to read 3 psi like it should, meaning it was being held completely closed and empty and when I tapped it, something moved and the fuel started to fill it. So I have not done anything else YET, but the car does idle a tiny bit rougher than it use to. I have a funny feeling I have done damage to my floats or my needle/seats due to the over pressure condition. First I am going to check the float level to see if it has been altered. Something tells me it probably has. I am planning on removing the needle/seats and will probably replace them, although I am not sure what will go wrong with a ball and a spring. I will examine the floats. Perhaps they will need some adjustment. The car starts fine and idles around 900 rpm very smoothly. However now I have a slight pop out of the carb at times when I tip into the throttle and under the slightest input of constant throttle I get a pop from the exhaust. These are new events for my triples, as they have been spot on perfect for 3 years, right up until I tried to make them take 18 psi from my temporarily insane fuel pump. Any other ideas.

Looks like you are off to a great start bud! Keep it up. We all teach each other in some kind of way. It is the best community on line!

I have no advice, but I certainly wish you all the luck in the world bud.

Travel'n man, that is my desired setup for my Z. I have LSD STI 3.90:1 diff in my car now, and the 4 speed eats it up, car pulls hard all the time, but I would kill for the 5th gear. Thought about taking the transmission out of the roadster and putting it in the Z but chicikened out. You would not know where I can find a 5 speed do ya Guy old buddy.

How is the fuel filter?

Cleaned out the pump and eureka 3 psi wonderful to solve a problem like this but truth be told It's time to address the filter

Yeah, it could, but it was on the bottom of the cylinder bore horizontal to the ground. I think it was accumulated junk from the fuel and the fact the car is not driven enough. Either way, I am going to replace the fuel filter as it is a few years old, Just to be sure. I would hate to have this happen while I am driving.

May have found it. I undid the locking nut and the allen bolt and the spring loading the bypass plunger onto the seat in the body just fell out. This piece moves to regulate the pressure output by the pump. Very simple design. However, the brass cylinder was stuck against the fuel body and would not move a bit. I had to pry it out. Apparently a piece of sludge or something got in there and held it up hard. I took it out and ran a brass 9mm gun cleaning brush through it and it slides in nince and falls out easy. It actually operates. I would be willing to bet this was my issue. I will install it back into he car and see what I can get. It may be time to install a new filter in there. I have been running the same one for years.

No my webers are only about 5 years old. They are not vintage italian ones....rather the ones made in spain. They have plastic bowls.

Okay, configuration... I am running triple webers on an L28, fueled by a Mallory Comp Pro Series 70 (P/N 4070LP) fuel pump set at 4 psi. I was getting 2.75 psi to the fuel rail under the hood. This setup has worked flawlessly since 2010, and the webers loved it. Well I finally finished getting the dash back in the roadster and took her out for a pleasure drive for the first time in 4 months, and had to back up the Z. I just drove the Z 2 weeks ago and I swear she was running better than ever. Car has been rock solid for years. However, the thing would not start, and smelled like it was getting way too much fuel.."How can this be I thought, I have everything dialed in!" Still smelled like fuel. I got out and noticed a STRONG fuel smell and my fuel pressure gauge on my fuel rail, which is normally happily at 2.75 or so reading, well it was not reading anything as the needle was pegged past 18 psi and my beautiful webers were streaming fuel out at an alarming rate. Guess I know the floats cannot stop 18+ psi. So I took the pump out and pulled off the bottom off to see the seal and expose the gear. I cannot see anything that would lead to this happening. I have never touched the tensioner spring inside the bottom of the pump. Any ideas?

http://www.autodromo.com/accessories/ love these I am sure you will too!

Just want to update the thread. Back last week, 240zrubber parts owner told me to check back in a few days for a new lid for my ash tray. He mentioned that he would add it to his next batch. Well 3 days later, his website was updated and showing he had one left, that I snatched up. THAT is exceptional customer service, and I look forward to doing business with him again VERY soon.

Have to give credit and thanks where it is due. Zup, since you pointed me to www240Zrubberparts.com I want to thank you. I emailed them my issue and since they were out of them, they would add them to the next batch in a few days and I could order one when they are ready. THAT is great service for our Z's. I just wanted to give them a compliment in front of our member and thank them for the quick customer friendly service. I think I will order the entire brake and hose clamp set from them in addition to the ash tray door. I will reward good companies with my wallet. That kind of service is hard to find.

I have toyed with the idea of putting a 72 console in my car. As they can be had more readily and in good shape than the 70-71 center console. But I just cannot abandon how OEM my interior is right now. Right now I am deep into my roadster dash redo. So after that the Z gets another turn for more freshening.

I cannot fathom that I have not heard of THAT website before!! WOW Will order one aSAP. Thanks Zup!

yeah, I will try that for the time being...But I know that is only a bandaid.

OH man, sorry, perhaps I explained poorly, not the ashtray itself, the plastic door that covers it.

keep up the great work man! I enjoy reading your posts, and your pics are a real help.

Well I was driving around the other night, and low and behold, my ash tray door, just plain cracked in half. I should have never touched it. I do not and have never smoked, but I leave a spare fuse in there. NO idea why I wanted to 'look' at said fuse. But anyway, does anybody have a spare door that covers the ashtray? My cursory search has revealed that this may be a hard part to find....

Wait it has a 4 speed transmission and it has AC with an electric motor. I can see the transmission I guess, but AC. Well that is at least interesting.