Oiluj
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Everything posted by Oiluj
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I looked for my first 240Z, but with no luck. My 2nd Z is certainly scrap metal after it was totaled while parked. I settled with the insurance company, fixed it up, but it was never the same. It was bent and the doors and hatch wouldn't seal properly, even with new gaskets. I finally sold it, (with full disclosure), to a young airline pilot who wanted a car he could leave in airport parking lots year-round without any worry. I saw it about 4 years later and it had small amounts of visible rust in the usual spots. I expect it's in Datsun heaven now...
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I'm OK with increasing the unit cost if it that's what it takes to make it happen.
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Congrats! Well deserved I might add...
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Welcome! You will find a lot of knowledge andhelp here. How about a few pics?
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It's a 1972. The valve is just above the rear suspension under the car on the passenger side. It is the brass valve just before where the rear brake line T to the rear wheels.
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It doesn't seem clooged, it's just not working. Problem is I can't get it apart to check it.. The outer seal is easy. The inner piston & seal won't come out.
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Looks like my rear proportioning / residual pressure valve is the culprit. Looked in the classifieds, but no joy. I can put in a after-market valve, but would prefer to use the correct one. Anybody have one they are willing to part with?
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Hopefully they will preserve just the way it is. It's a time capsule...
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Wow! That should really move your car!
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Come on People! Arne put a lot of effort to make this possible. If we don't get a few more commitments to buy, we won't make the minumum order. One of these would look retro-wonderful on your Z! Here's a link to Arne's e-mail. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35617&highlight=mylar
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Logo, smogos.. I want one of those 240Z Targa prototypes!
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It usually costs between $50 to $100 to re-key the locks, assuming they are not too worn.
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Yeah, I figure that it will cost about $500 to do my 2 car garage. The links shown are not the low cost suppliers, but they have good pics.
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It's not unusual for the locks to have been changed over the years and to no longer match.
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The air coming out is normal, as it's pushing the diaphram. As Jon hinted at, you probably just pushed the reaction disc out of place. Check to see that it is still in-place. If not, you have to fish it out or remove the booster and shake it out so you can re-install it. Don't ask me how I know this...
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Your garage floor looks great! Once the Z is done, I'm thinking of doing something with mine, but my wife says I have to do the finish plaster & paint first... I'm thinking of using a similar epoxy coat or perhaps a dimpled rubber sheet product like these: http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/1%27+x+1%27+diamond+tread+floor+tiles%2C+case+of+20.do http://www.bltllc.com/g-floor_main.htm
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Assuming your pedal goes all the way to the floor, when you push the pedal down, you will move the diaphram in the booster and force air through the check valve into the intake manifold. This will create the sound of air moving. (With the engine not running). I'm having the exact same problem of the pedal travelling all the way to the floor. The booster is good, new master cylinder, etc. I did some more research and now suspect that the brake switch valve may be the culprit. If your system was empty of brake fluid, when you only partially fill the lines and press the brake pedal, the shuttle valve in the brake switch can move all the way to one end. This will prevent proper bleeding / fluid flow to the rear brakes and can cause the loss of pedal pressure. I plan to check this on my car this weekend. Hopefully that will fix the problem.
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Arne, I'm in for two of the "240Z" mylars. PM me with final price, name on the check and where to send it.
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Jon, That is exactly what is happening. Funny thing is that both my new and old M/C's do it. I'll try returning my master cylinder to Napa and get a new one. Will update on progress later this weekend. Thanks for the input everybody!
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Ronaldo & Adam, Thanks for the input. Yep, the M/C is plumbed correctly and that's the sequence I've used for bleeding the brakes. I'm kinda stumped at this point. I'm thinking there may be a blockage somewhere, perhaps at the rear check valve. Next step is to remove the rear check valve to see if that improves things. If that doesn't do it, I may move the system back towards the "stock" configuration in a step-wise fashion to determine where the problem lies. Brakes on these cars are not that complicated and it just shouldn't be this difficult to get things working...
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Some progress, but no joy yet... I've read some posts and it sounds like I don't need the rear pressure check valve with the rear disc brakes. Is this the case? I removed the master vac, and used the best pushrod / reaction disc, re-assembled the larger unit and verified the master vac holds vacuum. I still have spongy pedal, but it now will stiffen if pumped repeatedly. Guess I must have some air in the system, and it appears to be in the rear brake circuit. So now I'm wondering if the rear check vakve is inhibiting getting the air out... Any additional thoughts?
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Leave it off. It just hides potential problems. You are better off cleaning the balance of the undercoating off. Mine has undercoating and I wish it didn't. Spent a lot of time poking it to make certain there was no rust hiding underneath.
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I'm with CSAA. Mine was in #3 condition when I first bought it and they agreed to $12K insured value without blinking. If I supply the receipts, and the car looks reasonably restored, they will insure it for a "stated value". In preliminary discussions, they seem to have no problem with $25 K. My previous car, a 1960 MGA was insured for $17K. When it was hit, (by another AAA member), they fixed it at a cost of $5K with no questions asked. They also paid her $1500 on the spot for a "fictional" neck pain, even though she did not want to go to the doctor, which pissed me off...