TomoHawk

Mine would be where #34 is to the right of the hood pull, and one in the same place of the other side.

Nope. None present.. Nor are there any holes in those places where the tubes would conect. the air must get in some other way on a 280Z. thx

Don't forget if you improve the amount of air that can get into the egine, you'll need to be able to get that much air back out. That's one reason why some people don't see any improvement- the exhaust system is more restictive than the intake. But I thin the Z engine (L28) has the intake box& exhaust pretty well matched. I saw a way to figure out the backpressure on TV once- one of those Sunday morning mechanic shows on Spike TV (with Sam & Dave).

Did the 280Z have those? I can't tell where the fresh air gets in. I'm not getting much fresh air coming through down by my feet. Or could there be blockage in there that I could fish out? thx

I would add to what Steven said, you want to make sure the elbow has enough length ( straight section) on both ends to reach the AFM (injected cars) and to reach far enough across so you can point it down from the hood to where the fresh air is (grill area). I have one of the 'simple elbow' things, but I can't use it because it doesn't even reach the boot/bellows/hose that goes into the AFM! thx

Could you all please give the details about the brand/model of intake you arereferring to? there are too many kinds on eBay of other places. thx.

Don't forget Dave's headlight harness is for a 240Z, not a 280Z like I have. When VB said it was "OE-Style", it meant that the connectors would plug directly to the lights, totally bypassing the original wiring. But like clete said, the wires were too short, and you can't get enough information out of them to know if you can plug it into a 280Z. Just too confusing. I don't think it's what I would want for my car. I think im my case I would be better off or now just getting the lamps out and cleaning the connector at the lamp base. Refreshing the fuse holder at the fuse block, the round connector near the radiator & the column connectors have already helped a lot. thx

Thanks for the input. Mine were the nickel TOKICO ones, but they started rusting after a while. The plastic wrap should keep the moisture out for a while, but I'll have to go find some new caps (with the wires). thx

They come apart, but you'd have to do some fancy bending so they go back together without all the ripples. If I could do it, I would have already, and re-wired them too.

Exactly. For some reason, people always go to look in that corner of the engine bay, and it's the first thing they see. I noticed this at a show I was at Sunday, and people seemed to be scared off by them. :mad:

I tried clear-coating mine with polyurethane. Obviously didn't work, and the heat and (humidity) did a number on them. New one should be fine, but I've seen two kinds- ones with the wiring, and ones without.

By shiney, you mean the cad-plated (goldish) ones? Aside from a new oil pressure (switch/sender) everything is plain aluminum or steel colored. Except for a few rusty spots on the throttle rod. :hurt: thx

On a 78 280Z, Are there any other caps that will fit the brake Master Cylinder? Mine are rusting from the heat & rain. Mine also have the wiring for the brake light, but I'm not sure I'll worry about that right now. thx

In packs of 2 (pairs).

Why not sell them in pairs? You'll get them off faster, and if the cost isn't that much, they should sell. Especially since people commenting here all wanted more than one. thx

How about "Ferroni Testosteroni: a car with a lot of balls.":)

The 250 testrossa started in 1959, then changed to the TR60 in 1960 and continued to 1964. I think Speed racer came out about 1966-67?

I was talking about the car used in the 60s cartoon. I think they got the design from the Testarossa. And the shooting star looks like an old Lotus, I think.

From the shape of the car, I think it's a 250 "pontoon" Testarossa, with some modifications to the front tips of the pontoons. The car was popular about the same time as the cartoon. I dunno about the engine tho. It's supposed to be able to spin at 24,000 rpm? What car does Racer X drive? thx

The hose is there to keep the low pressure inside the engine for it to run good. With the hose connected, unscrew the oil cap on the valve cover, and the engine should slow down.

I also have #2 on my 78 280Z. A friend has the one with the T-fitting. Are both were considered "correct?" I think that's the important question Otherwise, you just want to run the fumes or whatever comes out back into the engine. Some people are removing the long hose and fitting a cone filter to the valve cover pipe. thx

The P.O.R stuffonly treat a small area. You also want to take care of the rest of the car. Like with an electronic rust preventer.

Oh, that. Mine wasn't working, so there's a new one in there now.

Is that the AFM? I would probably like to have one on hand, just in case.

I want one of those for my 280Z. But not for $100+