TomoHawk

Can you get ceramic pads for a 280Z? they seem to better than both organic and semimetallic. thxZ

Black Dragon doesn't have the stock street pads for the 280Z, but they have some semi-metallic ones. Would there be any problems using the semi-metallic pads with the stock rotors? thxZ

I think the guy did the rotor the way you suggested, not some kind of shortcut. I will review the FSM on this to be sure, but as it had be said earlier, 'certified' tech guys don't need the customers telling them how to do their job, even if they have the FSM with them. thxZ

The last time I had a rotor from my Z turned, it was removed from the hub. The hub was repacked before reassembly, which isn't so bad a thing, but maybe not that much needed. I'm off to the dirty brake guy to see what he has to say- BBL thxZ

It's a 25 years exemption in Ohio, but I get mine checked anyway. Allways way below the limits.

Yeah, I asked for a written quote, and asked for the car back because I didn't have the time to wait. I will givethem a call when I am ready forthe service. I do know a guy ( greasy blue coveralls and face, dirty little shop on the corner of some quiet street) who will tell you things (a little) more honestly. I think I will go there and get the rotors turned again, if there's enough material left. jmortensen- I'm not sure which pads are on there right now. Probably generic or Bendix ones. Is there a suggestion on what pads to get or ask for? Darn- I forgot to tell them to hand-torque the wheel nuts. thxZ

I just had my 280Z at a Meineke place to "surface the rotor" that was shuddering while braking. I said the re was a "sticky spot" from the brake pad material. The tech guy drives my car around a parking lot, then tells me "You have a warped rotor." After I informed him that there's no such thing as a warped rotor he gives me a look like I'm telling him!? Then he says I need both lower ball joints $500 per pair) and a tie-rod end (new tierods from my Mustang rack install) YOUR ROTORS ARE WARPED FROM OVERHEATING THE ROTORS WHILE DRIVING. OK, maybe the ball joints ($200 each!) are about ready to be changed, but those people still tell me I need two new rotors & pads (rotors & pads come in "matched sets?") Finally, they guy tells me if I did get new rotors & pads, I wouldn't have to do anything epecial for pad brake-in. Yeah, right. thxZ

He was asking about removing the undercoating not the tar mats. How would you apply dry ice to the underside of the car?

The BMW is nice, but they use a dual exhaust arrangement with a single muffler. How could you do that without using twice pipes?

I use a heat gun on the underbody rustproofing, and scrape it with a wood or plastic scraper. Then some solvent to wash off the rest.

there was a company that would put digital radio guts into the older radio boxes.

I likethe master cylinders with the dual channels too. That way, if you do lose presure in one circuit ( like the fronts) you have the other to save your butt, unlike you used to see on older TV shows ( bad guy cuts one brake hard line, and there is totally no brakes at all.)

Is that your idea of the Eropean exhaust tone"

I used connectors from a BMW because they had the squeeze clips on them.

I look at the fender-mounted mirrors in a geometric way. Because they are farther away than the door-mounted ones, he field of view ( angle) is much smaller. Thus your blind spot is that much bigger. That's also why we have the convex mirros too; so the field of view is wider. I just couldn't even consider how people could see what's in the mirror like when it's raining or snowing, or when the mirror ( or the side window) is frosted-over.

Unless the pan was made of metal, I'd still add some metal gusset straps across the bottom to support & reinforce things for the same reasons. I'd put on a strip on the edges where it's attached too (unless it's a metal pan.) Maybe even a full metal bottom panel. Anything besides metal would stretch and sag in the long run, but OTOH, wouldn't rust.

If I put on a splash pan, I would use a rubber gasket in between, and large washers on each fastener, with a rubber wash on each. If it was a metal pan, I would first have it coated with bedliner material or similar first, or just go with a plastic, CF or glass one. I used to be able to mAke moulds for fiberglass parts ( 4-foot model boats & such.) I'm not sure I could even get someone to part with theirs long enough to make a mold. :cheeky:

On later models, the R/L wire is the ground leg of the instrument lamps. G/W is the power leg.

The reason I am concerned is because at a recent regional meet ( about 40 miles south of Indianapolis, IN) there was a poker run through the countrtyside where a car (a 350Z) was going too fast and rolled over. 26th- I don't have the ZCCA convention handbook.

While you have it, it would be a great thing to the rest of us if you could get a mold made of it to make (or splash?) copies in glass or CF or even plastic. We need to start making new molds for the rarer parts before they are all gone entirely. thxZ

It seems that many people think of a poker run as something more like a WRC rally, where you drive along at about 60-80 MPH ( or more!) on closed or country roads to the different stops. I've been on poker runs in a powerboat, sailboat, and airplane, and with exception to the airplane, you aren't going too fast and just take your time to follow the instructions instead of trying to set a record for the shortest time. If you really want to get finished fast, just don't get lost! Above all just relax and enjoy the ride. thxZ

If you were on a poker run, what would you expect in terms of roads and speeds? Would you expect to have potty stops or diversions for shopping (antiques, kink-knacks, closeouts, outdoor malls, etc.) marked on the route? thxZ

My goal isn't to make the calipers stand out, but to protect the surface from oxidation and allow them to be cleaned more easily. Raw aluminum will shed heat better than dirty or oxidized aluminum.

Registrations are rolling in! If you are interested, get yours in too, and remember that when you pay for your registration, it locks you in. Otherwise, prices might go up in August, so it's to your advantage to REGISTER TODAY!

If you were going to paint the calipers on a 280Z, what color would you pick? I lean towards Silver, red, or black. I will probably paint the drums to match too. thxZ